Homer

This is what worked for me, it was still a ball ache removing the box and I would not advise doing it on your own! I mean ball ache literally, I dropped the box on my nuts. Boy did that hurt

As above, the big one is the EGR gasket, UK only I think (I have the same one gathering dust ) The 3 smaller ones are for the stock exhaust (2 go into the very rear section split at the silencer, the other I can't remember). The 2 larger ones are for the cat pipes.

My old one, back in 2003! Blitz wheels which are no longer available.

Had a look but that plug is not present on the VVTi engine bay looms I have.

No worries, Steve and I only replaced that loom 2 weeks ago, but he did the foot well plugs so I didn't pay attention. Will have a look tomorrow and track where the wires go if no one answers in the mean time. BTW, is the loom from a jspec non-VVTi TT or something else? There are differences so just checking up front first.

I don't remember that one, but if you can wait until tomorrow I can have a check on my car. I have a TT loom out of the car and the one in the car is easy to get to/photograph (The interior is still removed)

Watching with great interest. What are you using for the exhaust wheels Paul, are they steel and resized or still stock? Also are these Jspec or UK housing (I can't even recall if they are different)

I saw it, saved it and printed it too The helpful part is the 1st picture that appears. What's very weird with this car is that one of the wires for the fuel pump is missing making the +B and FP bridge impossible. It's not there on the VVTi shell loom at all (though this is theory shouldn't stop the circuit from working, it's only the diag port that doesn't see it). Steve needs to look at this and will do in due course.

Yes, it might be as the de-limiter taps the speed sensor wire. Have a look at your connections to it down next to the ECU and make sure you're not seeing any broken ones.

ooooh, I've not seen that first wiring diagram before so that may be very helpful. Steve is the expert on this (now ) so he'd be the best one to have a look. Thanks for taking the pics Jon Hope all is well, not seen you for a long while!

Got to agree Si, the clutch diffs are a different level to the Torsen ones. The biggest difference I noticed is the same as what you mentioned, power slides are so much more controllable with the clutch diff, it's so much easier to keep your foot on the power and let the diff pull the car back into line. This doesn't happen so smoothly with the Torsen. For sure it can be a bit more snappy and tail happy but with your driving sklls I don't think that will ever be an issue. Did you configure it 1.5 or 2 way? I am considering having mine changed from 2 way to 1.5 as it's a rather lairy lifting off the power going into a corner in the wet... That may be the driver more than the car that's the problem, but I'm having trouble getting used to it.

No need for two threads with the same topic, see your one in the tech section.

Possibly. Do you have a speed delimiter fitted?

That would be great Shane, I'm in all day and the kettle will be warm Thanks!

Thought I might be handy to add a pic of the pulley to this thread. The difference is small but it might account for the 1932 belt tension issues some have reported.

True though, every day is a learning day on here! I'm not a founding member though, I was a few years late to be considered one of those Yes, that would make sense about the belt. The tensioner should take up some of the slack but it may explain the difference if one of the belts is a bit shorter. Not to worry though, some good info learnt today which may help others in future. Unfortunately since the casing is cracked on the TT one it's impossible to do a hybrid (it's the casing that is the important bit here ). You can have the alternator back anytime Shane, I won't be selling it or anything (or if you prefer that I sell it I'll pass the money back to you of course!).

Rob isn't hanging around on this then, fast work!

42 is indeed the speed sensor circuit system warning. I'd first have a look at the wiring to the speed sensor and also in the ECU footwell area to make sure there's no break in it. The wire is often tapped into for the speedo reading and other things such as a de-limiter so a faulty connection is highly likely. I very much doubt it's the sensor itself, I've never heard of one failing. Edit, oh and click the link "error code", I think the 3rd or 4th attachment shows the possible areas to look at.

I agree with what you say, there's no good reason to be that bothered about the amp rating. Toyota over engineered everything on these cars so perhaps this is why the TT auto is more powerful (A 'just in case' thing) One thing that surprised me and that I can't find mentioned in previous threads is that the NA alternators are all the same regardless of auto or manual. The TT auto alternator is definitely more beefy than the NA one, it's larger and certainly a few pounds heavier. If I manage to get a TT manual one I'll add the info here for comparison, it might be handy for others in the future. The TT alternators (Auto and Manual) have a larger casing too, it's not just the plug socket that's in a different position, the entire casing is different (and larger) Also the conectors all appear the same, it's just the position of it on the casing is different on the TT ones. They are all made by the same company as well (Nippon Denso). No problem David, I didn't even think to check it before picking it up, I assumed the info I read on the forum before was correct, it is in part but it doesn't give the full picture. You're right though, the NA owners here can rejoice because they can fit any alternator, the TT's need a TT one. Thanks very much for meeting up today and sorry that you had a such a long journey, really appreciate the effort

I believe all large casing diffs are Torsen LSD's, Keron should be able to confirm. A very simple way to check if it's auto or manual is to mark the prop and one driveshaft flange. Rotate the prop making sure the driveshaft flange rotates though exactly one rotation. While doing this count how many turns you make on the prop. It should be 3 and then a part rotation. You just need to work out how many percent of a revolution it does on the 4th rotation. If it rotates approx. 3.2 times it's a manual, if it's approx. 3.5 times its an auto.

Bit of a fail today, the alternator didn't fit In my hurry to get one I didn't do my research so didn't realise the NA and TT ones are different. For those that are interested, there's a thread here that explains it: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?299335 Steve dropped by (yet again!) to have another go at the fuel pump system. He pulled a spare known working on out of his own car to test it out, but the ECU still fails to send a feed to the pump. He also temporarily wired in the UK pump ECU and again, the same thing happened. He's spent ages going over the wiring diagrams but there's no information available which explains what signal or voltage is sent from the ECU, it just makes no sense because the engine ECU is sending the correct feed to the pump ECU but it fails to fire. THe wires have been traced back and it's all checked as working. We're at a loss to figure out why none of the fuel pump ECU's turn the pump on. So, in the mean time Steve hooked up a relay which uses the engine ECU feed to turn the pump on, replicating what the pump ECU is doing, this worked perfectly. He has a better idea of a way to do this, but I don't fully understand it, he's going to give it a try next time he comes round. We also ran the engine for a bit longer this time, it seems okay but is a little rough ticking over. It's probably a combination of old fuel and poor spark (The replacement coil mount parts haven't arrived from Toyota yet so I can't fit the new coil packs). I have also started work on the trans tunnel swap, I started drilling out the holes, but then realised I had forgotten where the plate starts and ends, so I'll need to wait for the OEM one to turn up from Keron before I do any more. Despite the terrible welding it does look like there's enough metal left around the tunnel to get a replacement fitted safely and securely, so that's good news Now, a long wait for the many parts still needed. Not much I can do not until they are found and start arriving! Fuel pump ECU replacement: Wrong alternator

Thanks all, very useful and I think I know which route I'm going to take now... going to go with the NA TRD for now James, I didn't realise it was you that replied all that time ago, I started to wonder yesterday after I posted it. You were the guy that was going to take me for a spin at Japfest a few years ago I think.... Thanks Keron. With the TRD NA diff it's going to be even shorter than the auto, so I am concerned about the RPM at cruise. I guess time will tell and James seems happy with his It's going to be bloody quick accelerating through the gears though

In summary, in case this helps others: 27060-46200: UK/Euro/US/Jspec TT 6spd (1993-2002) 27060-46120: UK/Euro/US/Jspec TT Auto (1993-2002) 27060-46170: Jspec/US TT Auto (1995-2002) (Weird because this is a cross over from 27060-46120) 27060-46180: Jspec/US NA Auto, 5spd or 6spd (1993-2002) 27060-46190: Jspec/US NA Auto, 5spd or 6spd (1993-2002) Quite why there's two part numbers covering the same cars for the NA I have no idea

Yeah I did, I edited above. What it shows is that on the TT there is a difference between auto an manual, but NOT on the NA. Also it does confirm the TT and NA alternators are different. So I think I've answered my own question

Steve and I attempted to replace the alternator on the UK supra engine today but the replacement alternator doesn't fit correctly. The pulley is slightly smaller and the socket on the back can't be inserted because the turbo water feed (or return, I forget) is in the way. I believe the replacement alternator is from an NA as regardless of auto/manual it still wouldn't fit on a TT engine due to the water line. The thing is, I probably wrongly expected the TT and NA alternator to be the same, it seems not (can anyone else verify?), so would I now need a jspec TT alternator, or do I need a UK one? The UK one on there seems a lot more beefy than the NA one which doesn't seem to be inline with other feedback that on the auto/manual ones are different. Can anyone say for certain how many different models of alternator there are? It seems there are at least 9 different versions out there based on the part number system! The part number from the UK alternator is 27060-46120 (Toyodiy says this from an TT, UK and jspec) The part number from the spare (presumably NA) is 27060-46190 (Toyodiy says this from an NA manual and auto) UK TT one on the left, NA on the right: