Homer

Tidy, like that a lot Jamie, I'm going to be working on my car tomorrow (which has the dash out and everything unplugged) so if you need any pics or measurements let me know.

In the mean time, I'll try and be a bit clearer about the shifter plugs. The shifter itself is from a UK spec The interior loom is from a VVTI 6spd - which I believe still has the auto shifter connectors next to the shifter socket, they are simply left blanked off (this was the case in all Supra's I've owned, the auto shifter connector plugs are always present, just not used). The white plug on the VVTI 6spd shell has a LOT more connectors than are present on the UK auto shifter. Some may be for the manual shift buttons the VVTi cars had which may explain the difference. I also have another pre-facelift auto TT car which has been converted to NA manual so will try and get some pics from that one too for reference.

Thanks both, I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow provided the weather isn't too bad!

Thanks David, I'll cross that off the list. I've had a look at the trans sockets you mentioned. The speed sensor and the main plug are connected up to the engine loom. I need to check further but it does look like everything is plugged in. The only bits not plugged in are two sockets on the shifter mechanism. The blue plug can be connected, but the other (white plug) is a different size and shape with a different number of connection points

David, Gman, hope I can pick your brains here. Is the Park/Neutral switch relevant to being able to engage drive? I think this is the switch on the handbrake. I can't imagine the ECU wouldn't allow the gearbox to engage drive with the handbrake on, but it seems to be quite critical in the wiring diagrams. That switch is currently removed from the handbrake as the prats who did the trans tunnel mod mounted the plate too far over meaning the sensor doesn't fit. I can work around that with something custom (i.e. bodge!), but it's not clear how relevant it is to being able to select drive.

Haha, whoops

Small update from today. Got the rad back in, filled up the anti freeze and also the PAS system so all the fluids are in the car now. Totally forgot about the expansion tank so will have to order one, doh! I was hoping to be able to move the car today but in my ignorance I didn't realise there are some electrical connectors required to be fitted to the box to engage Drive. I have a thread in the tech section about that... It's odd because the engine and box was installed in one go so I can't understand why anything would have been disconnected. The only thing not connected is the two plugs on the shifter itself. The start lockout is working so at least part of the auto system is working. Will have a better look on Sunday as hopefully Steve is dropping over to help. I also fitted the new coil packs and mounting as the old ones were shot. The engine is running MUCH smoother now, but I still need to change the plugs as it's sometimes dropping a bit on idle. I also did a quick pass of the instruments, most are working and the warning light system is functioning correctly. Ran through the following and had to fix a couple of broken wires here and there: Stuff that works: - Warning light system - Indicators/hazard warning - Headlight system - Wipers and washer unit - Brake light system - Electric windows - Door mirrors - Rev counter - Fuel gauge - Fan system Not working: - Engine temp gauge - Boost gauge (stock one so pretty useless anyway) - Air con system (it's engaging, but doesn't work because of no gas) - Rear brake lights (Need to be re-wired on the light cluster as they were a bit hacked) For most of those I know the cause so hopefully not too much effort to fix 1) Old coil packs removed 2) New ones installed, also replace the breather lines. Rest of engine needs a good tidy up, cam gaskets and some parts painted, but I'll leave that until the car is running properly 3) Little vid of the engine, there's a rattling noise coming from somewhere but I've not found it yet, seems to be in the engine area and not the transmission. I'm thinking maybe one of the tensioners... [video=youtube_share;IrgDsFvM-JI]

Thanks, very good of you Just to be clear: Engine loom: UK Spec Auto Engine Bay loom: VVTI Manual Body Loom: VVTi Manual

Good stuff. It's an auto engine loom (UK) so I guess is not plugged in. I'm having a look at the wiring diagrams now, there's a fair bit more involved that I first thought. Something is connected somewhere as the shift lock is working (i.e. if I select drive it won't turn the engine over, in park or neutral it's okay.

Thanks both, I'll have a look over the weekend. Do you know if that connector block is part of the engine loom? The body and engine BAY loom is still manual, I'm really hoping it's not on either of those!

Okay, that makes sense, thanks. The ECU is auto along with the engine loom, is that where the connectors are for the auto gearbox? Or, are they on the selector mechanism itself?

Today I tried to get it in gear and see if it would move, but when moving the shifter with the engine running the box doesn't actually manage to select any gears. There's none of usual little thud you get when going through them (I tried them all). Is there some sort of setup process needed with the gear selector to get it connect correctly to the box?

Thanks Gareth, very useful, that might help in case it doesn't like Drive. I will keep in mind when trying to move it at the weekend. The connector on the box itself is plugged into the engine bay wiring loom and therefor ECU, but I have no kick-down switch so manual shifting might be needed. If I read the pdf you linked to correctly it will work without the shifter mechanism plugs disconnected. I guess I will find out soon

I used a 4inch flexi on my old single and that is still doing the job 7 years later Personally I'd go for as long a section as you can get away with, longer = more flexibility.

Amazing colour, love it

Thanks for the offer Shane, very generous of you once again I had a PM from James (Theturtleshead) who has a couple of stock seats available so will go with those. Appreciate the help though mate

Thanks Swampy. The car starts so I know there's no electrical lockout issue. I'm not concerned about the signals to the gear selector lights as the clocks are manual anyway. I just need to find out if there's any issue with those sockets not being connected. The engine bay loom and ECU and auto so my simple logic is it should work...

Thanks Kaan and yeah, this is the same I'm assuming too. Apart from the start lockout I can't see how those plugs on the shifter have anything to do with the box being able to engage drive. Thanks Tony, if it comes to that I might as well just crack on and fit the manual box. The only reason for trying this was to make it easier for the manual conversion

Well yes, sort of. There's two connectors on the shifter unit, (one blue and one white), the blue plug fits but the white one doesn't. It was mentioned by someone else in another thread that the car would be able to be started, but not driven without the auto interior loom, but I don't understand why....

My car has a 98 facelift 6spd shell and interior wiring harness, plus a UK engine & auto box with auto engine bay wiring loom and ECU. Since the interior dash looms are manual I understand the connectors for the auto shifter won't fit. Is this going to stop the car from being able to drive? Excuse my ignorance, but why can the car no drive when "D" is selected, surely it's all a mechanical process... Any ideas/thoughts?

Bit of a change of plans, I'm going to get it running with the auto box for now. The main reason or this is that my driveway and garage are really not suitable to do a transmission and diff swap. I'd rather get it running & MOT'd, then transfer all the nice parts over from my NA later. The manual conversion can come later once I have all the parts needed. It's far safer and quicker using a proper workshop to do the swap than on a sloping driveway in the current weather conditions. It's just not worth the hassle doing it all in one go. So today I fitted the auto shifter which after a lot of messing managed to get it in the right position to select drive, park, etc. It's very crude, but it does engage the box. I also started refitting the interior for now, mainly just to make sure everything is working as it should (and so far it looks good, all the dash lights and switches I've tested so far work). I've also installed the rad and started bolting up the front end again (IC pipes, headlights, front bumper, wheel well linings, etc). The rest of the week will be a case of bolting it all back together again, doing some service items and trying to get it driveable. Anyone got a spare couple of stock seats available? The one that came with the car was soaking wet due to the window being left open for so long (before I had it!) and has since got mould growing after leaving it in the garage. 1) Interior going back in (The carpet and interior panels that came with the car have been badly damaged so will eventually swap in the mint condition parts from my NA) 2) This rad is going back in but it needs replacing. It's on the to-do list for a future date.

I wish I had that much time Paul, really do! I know what you mean though, it's not such a complex thing to do, just needs hours and they are hard to find! Steve, I forgot to add that your fuel pump mod is working perfectly, it shuts off the pump when the engine dies/stalls Not sure what you wanted to change about it, but it seems to be replicating the stock system exactly

I'll try and dig it out tomorrow and have a look at it. I can post it up to you to check out, if you use it just send a few quid to cover it, if not post it back.

No problem. I also have a spare TT auto cluster in my parts box but has a couple of busted gauges. The casing and circuit board are fine from what I recall, would that help you at all?

For info, that is the same converter/de-limiter I used when installing the UK clocks. Is there any reason you can't just swap the dial face and retain the jspec cluster? If you want to wait a bit I'll be selling my jspec/UK hybrid cluster once my other car is up and running (Facelift so I don't need the dials anymore)