Homer

Awesome, thanks for posting Rob

I only logged on here to ban this time waster. LBM has beaten me to in

We didn't plan to, we only live 30 mins away I'll run it past the one in command though

Paid for myself and the missus. Looking forward to it

Very nice Gerald, I wouldn't change a thing on that!

Anyone interested in a day of retro fun? Myself and my partner went to this last year (The first time it was run, it was an awesome day out and we will be attending again this year. The basic theme of the event is about planes, bikes and cars from the early and mid part of the last century. There is a huge amount of classic cars and plenty of US muscle cars on show, some of the very best in the country. There are air displays and drag racing to watch, but you cannot RWYB It's a cheap day out with lots of live music, great food and some plenty for sale. Link to the main site: http://www.skiddle.com/whats-on/Northampton/Sywell-Aerodrome/Sywell-Classic-Pistons--Props-2014/12009984/ I also have some pics on facebook from the event (but it's private so only my friends can view): https://www.facebook.com/darryl.lloyd.73/media_set?set=a.10151929366163735.530393734&type=3 Anyone interested?

It was a great day out and a fantastic lunch at The Falcon, thanks Dean! Highly recommended! Looking forward to a summer meet there soon I let the misses drive me home, that was an experience

In the Supra service manual there is a section which covers the strip down and rebuild process of the v160. However this section in not included in the club downloads files. I have a hard copy of the manual but not an online one, I'm sure someone here will be able to post a link to one.

Sorry for the late reply Ian, Been busy with work and have done nothing to the car recently except clean it today for the first time That's a good call on the MAP sensor and makes sense. It's wired in but to a VVTi body loom so I expect there's some missing wires there. I'll be ditching it as the stock one is next to useless anyway, I'll fit a decent aftermarket boost gauge once the car is running. However your point about the poor running is interesting, there's nothing so far I can find that should cause it to so massively over-fuel, to the point it is barely running on 3-4 cylinders. After seeing your video I'm also concerned about the timing belt tensioner, it was my main reason for posting the vid. It's a higher mileage engine (though serviced through it's life by Toyota until recently) so I wouldn't be surprised if it was near end of life. The engine issue is not the priority for now anyway, it's clear I'm not going to be able to get the auto box working in this shell so it's back to plan A and convert it to manual. I bloody hate all that auto ECU trickery stuff anyway, manual is far simpler and it's just mechanical things going on which my brain can better understand Next step is going to be a trip to Dr.Jekyll to pick up my manual box, flywheel and clutch. I also still need to find a manual clutch pedal, clutch master and manual accelerator pedal, the rest of the items are pretty simple to source. No doubt Where are you in Northampton Kevin?

This is exactly how I've done it (twice now). Works a charm and only takes a minute

Agree with Ben, new exhausts are always a bit raspy, they get deeper after they have a good coating on the inside.

Very nice indeed, love the attention to detail

And they can't drive (though it's an NA auto, so hardly fun times to be had). It's not nearly as heart breaking as the videos of the very nice TT's stolen in Northern Ireland a few years ago. They were really decent and clean motors which were utterly destroyed by teenage chavs, the vids were uploaded to YouTube (and long since been deleted).

That rules out the turbo's so it's likely to be an issue with VSV's or "something else". What exhaust system is installed and are there any cats present? As mentioned above the whole idea behind controlling boost on the JDM engine is exhaust restriction, assuming all is working well with the various sequential system there's nothing else that keeps it from running huge boost without it. Perhaps try removing the restrictor ring and doing a very quick run unrestricted and see what boost you see (assuming you trust your gauge!). If it's truly unrestricted it will run way past 1.4 bar in any gear. Not recommended of course but if you are careful you should be able to quickly see if it can ran up to at least 1.2 bar.

Something is definitely wrong then. The first turbo should make around 0.45 bar and the second should take it to 0.76 when it's stock. BPU'd it should easily make 0.7 bar on the 1st and 1.2 with the 2nd (unrestricted they will go to 1.7 bar!). It could be a damaged 1st turbo or a VSV or EGBV issue like others have said. I'd definitely be checking your VSV operation and that the actuators are functioning correctly. It's a bit of a pain with the stock system as everything is tucked away, one fairly simple thing to do is to remove the compressor housing on the 1st turbo and inspect the clades for damage. Damaged compressor blades are very common on the 1st turbo.

That's a kind guesture mate and I really appreciate you helping me out with parts on my car I'll also chip in with any parts if they are needed, I have quite a lot of spare items (and much more to come soon) that need a good home. One of which is an UK auto rad with the cooler. It's not in the best of condition but it doesn't leak so might help you short term if your one turns up faulty.

Sorry to hear this this mate, really feel for you. As others have mentioned, the coolers is definitely the place to go looking. On my car (Jason's old one), the lines to the auto box cooler in the rad are completely missing, there's no cooler plumbed in at all!

Thanks Chris, I'll give it another try and see what I find.

Yes Chris, Steve checked the selector was in the correct position before tightening the nut on the selector shaft.

Correct, the shifter plugs are not connected as they don't match. The physical connection between the shifter and the arm to the gear selector is in place and positioned correctly.

Sorry David, I'm not following you here. I haven't bridged anything but perhaps the garage that had the car before has. What I can say is that the car will only start when P or N is selected on the shifter, it locks out the start in any other position (Which I believe is normal operation)

Great, thanks again Gareth, much appreciated. I'll have a re-read of your link tomorrow when I'm more awake. I must admit I forgot about your info when we went through the steps on Sunday. I'm a div.

Thank you gents I didn't read your original post correct, apologies. We didn't try it with the auto box disconnected from the ECU, if I understand you correctly, I should unplug the couple of solenoid plugs from the auto box and try to manually shift. Correct? Okay, that makes sense, though I cannot see it in the wiring diagrams. I'll try and find those dreaded VVTi loom diagrams and see what needs to be bridged to trick it

Good question. We found that two sockets on the UK shifter do not fit the VVTi dash loom plugs. Ideally we'd like to check a VTTi wiring body diagram but haven't found one so far. Because of this we can't even guess which pins should be matched up. That said, the body loom doesn't appear to have any impact on the gear selection process (at least according to the UK wiring that is in place).

On Sunday Steve and I spent some time going over the connectors and wiring diagrams. What we found: - The auto box connectors are all plugged in correctly (Solenoid plugs, speed sensors & temp sensor) - The plugs on the shifter itself do not appear to have any relation to the box solenoids, they simply light the dash and tell the ECU if it's in Manu mode or not. We can't see any way they would effect the box being able to engage a gear - The ECU is detecting the gear selection when the shifter is moved. It shifts the RPM slightly upwards when going to a driven gear. - The box has enough oil in it However, the box still refuses to engage any gear. We've been over the wiring diagrams and can't see anything that is immediately wrong. The only bits not wired in is the shifter connectors and the kick down switch (Neither of which, from a wiring aspect, appear to have anything to do with the box being able to engage a gear) This is a last ditch request for bright ideas before plans are changed again and install a manual box. Hope you guys have some ideas