Homer

Haha, thanks for the offer, can you make coffee? Finally got some work done today - got the hub nuts off after buying some Snap-On extension bars (And they came off easy, reminder to self again - only buy high quality tools!). Also freed up the rear brakes and lifted the car for the first time since it arrived here. Now need to get some slabs under the rear wheels and start raising it up high enough to get access to the diff and gearbox. Also did some research on the hubs, shafts, etc. From what I found the UK and j-spec hubs are all the same, same goes for the driveshafts, EXCEPT the LH one which is shorter with the large diff. That means less work for the diff swap.

On my NA, almost anyone as long as I've been in a car with them before. The Mrs drives it now and again, but she's not a big fan as the suspension is too hard. Probably more than 20 people have driven it, most loved it but some said it was a bit on the slow side. For my old single, only people I trusted and knew they could handle a powerful RWD car (thinking about it, that was limited to a few members of this club and a mate who owns a triple rotor RX7). 5-6 people I would guess

That interior is absolutely mint, nice car!

The larger brakes were optional on the RZ-S, but standard on the RZ. If your RZ-S has the bigger brakes they were paid for by the OG or they were upgraded later in the cars life

You're not alone, I saw a genuine car a good few years ago that had the facelift exterior, pre-facelift dash & non-VVTI engine, but had the v161 and 'small' diff. It wasn't modified as the VIN plate validated with Toyota specs. There are quite a few mix-and-match cars out there, but very rare. I feel your pain though! Post your specs of the diff, they're not all bad if they have the stronger crown wheel (as your car will probably have). It all depends on how much torque you're building for.

Yes mate That's a good point about the bearing and I agree. I've only got a handheld butane torch so it's probably not enough to get it hot very quickly. I haven't tried an impact gun, but would need to get a compressor for that (it was on my so called 'must have' list anyway). Will try again once I get a decent extension and if that doesn't work then it's next steps. Thanks to all for the input

Struggling with this fecking driveshaft nut... Tried again today with a scaffold pole but now I bent the short extension arm from the socket set. Time to buy a better one and try again. Anyone got any bright ideas for removing the driveshaft nut from a non-runner? Heat?

I see you have a new car now Jason, very nice it is too. About time you got that one you wanted Today was the first time I've done anything on the car in, well, over 2 years!! Tried to get the driveshaft hub nuts undone to start with the diff swap, but the 5 foot steel pole bent Next try later this week with a scaffold pole. The car has been sat so long even the brakes are stuck solid. I think I have most of the parts needed now to get it running, so it's just trying to find the time.

The T-56 does fit in the Supra, but only JUST. From the measurements I received it only gives a few mm clearance on the rear part of the trans tunnel, but it should be workable with some small fabrication. The shifter position is around 5 cm shorter then the v16*. Not ideal for those that want the shifter where it's supposed to be. I spent far too much time looking into T-56 options when I was considering the alloy chevy v8 sway years ago - the amount of technical know how to make it work (and cost) put me off. Very, very capable box though, especially the more modern units mentioned above.

That's very kind of you! However I'm probably the same as you and want new everything (at least when it comes to replacing things), thanks all the same, much appreciated

Thanks for the feedback gents So it's the Koyo or Moshimoto? - Are they the thicker size rad? - Stock fan shroud fits as it's intended? - Do they use the stock fitments for the sensors, etc? - Stock rad cap fits okay? Presumably these are alu and not copper... which will explain the price difference TIA!

There are so many feedbacks on different products and I'm now completely confused as to what to use a replacement radiator ('Large', manual rad). The stock ones are hugely expensive but so many of the aftermarket ones have terrible feedback, I don't mind paying good money for something non OEM but simply cannot pay out for the OEM one (it's half the price of an NA Supra). I'm not really willing to compromise with OEM fit for the shroud, OEM caps, sensors, etc. Are there any tried and tested OEM replacements available out there that fit & perform as well as Toyota made - but without the Toyo premium?

Same here. Since I damaged a set of Blitz 17's in 2004 I started using OEM wheels. I've had them on my TT, single, NA and new TT. Love the way it drives on them and when I've tried larger diameter wheels or wider tyre's it's always detracted from the handling (even with the geometry corrected). I've now got 3 sets of them! A classy set of 18/19in wheels really do modernise the look of the Supra though

Very nice choice, it looks great. Must admit that after getting this Mrs a modern BMW I'm being swayed towards a newer car instead of getting the TT supra back on the road, BMW M series being at the top of the list...

Shame you are pushed to part this out but the economics of it, sadly, makes sense. I recommend you start a new thread with the parts priced out per item and have this thread closed. Otherwise you'll get bombarded by time wasters or silly offers (which are often difficult to separate from genuine buyers who may be taking a price guess) There's a few bits I'm interest in but waiting to see a price list.

To be fair mate, the prices in this thread are quite a bit below what you could get. They are all very rare parts. If my car was at the next stage I would have paid almost double for most parts and still be happy with it. Good luck with the sale but don't sell them too cheap.

Booked for Nisha and I

If I could find anywhere local I'd do that and get a 4inch pipe to mate up the BL backbox I have. Unfortunately the last quote I got for making one were nearly the price of a new BL system. I'll be having another look into this, but no urgency. As always Shane you're a gent! To be fair, I have a BL backbox so if I'm going to the trouble of sleeving something on I'll use that, but thank you very much for the offer, much appreciated! I never liked the NUR due to the drone they always get, It's only my daily NA so not too concerned about the noise it makes. For now I'll just fit the stock UK TT system I have in the garage. When my other supra is up and running it will get the Boostlogic exhaust. No remortgage or going single. I only got married last year and already have more mortgages than I ideally want

I know where you're coming from, it's what got me into debt years ago I'm a hoarder of car parts so have a stock exhaust in the garage which will have to make do for now. Although I do have one half of a Boostlogic exhaust, just need the straight piece..... Hmmm

Balls!

I'm weighing up the diff options for my project and need some help on the prop shaft options... To quickly sum up this question, is there a stock prop combination that would allow a w58 to be installed with a 'Big' diff? I would also like to know if any of the following statements are incorrect: - There are regular shafts and the heavier, thicker ones that came with the big diff and UK cars - The are only two options for the 'diff' end of the prop shaft: the 'thin' prop and the 'thick' prop - There are multiple options for the 'gearbox' end of the prop shaft: w58 (thin), a340 (thin and thick), v160 (thick), v161 (thin) I've attempted to list the stock options below where: I'm finding it a bit difficult to explain, but hopefully it makes sense Hopefully someone out there can help advise!

Are these available and does anyone have a supplier for one? I cannot seem to find one through the usual sources.

The more I think about it the TRD option is winning out, got to agree Si. The diff ratio also better matches the w58, though I know the crown wheel is going to be a weak point. The engine is a UK spec TT so although it will make for a longer gear it should be okay, but not ideal. The car really needs a 6spd but that can come later, this is also why I won't be selling the big casing one or the prop, driveshafts, etc.

Picked up all of the drainparts parts from Justin Bieber (aka Adam) yesterday, thanks mate! It's a full auto-manual conversion kit. Included are: w58 & shifter NA open diff (Which may go in my NA, the TRD from that could go in this car) New flywheel New release bearing New clutch (Will need to be changed for something stronger) New gearbox mount Clutch slave and master cylinders Clutch line Clutch pedal Brake pedal Accelerator pedal Prop shaft Driveshaft's I'm still in two minds on what to do about the diff. It has a Torsen 'Big' UK diff in there with the stronger prop and driveshaft's. However I have an NA TRD 2-way diff in my silver one so planned on swapping that in. I really like how this diff works on the road even though it's only in my NA, it really drives the rear well round the corners and has very manageable grip when pushed. If I keep the UK diff I will need to get a custom prop made to mate it to the w58 as to my knowledge none of the stock options will work. Thoughts? I'm not holding my breath, but I would really hope so!

That's a nice looking car My 6 month update is that I finally bought the last load of mechanical bits to get the car on the road. Thanks to Justin Bieber (aka Adam) for the 5spd conversion kit with all the bits needed to get the drive train swapped back to manual. Hope to pick them all up this weekend after which I only need to find the time to do the trans and diff swap to finally make the car driveable again. Still a lot of work to do after that but getting it moving again will be a huge step. Now, to find the time!