Homer

Late to comment on this as Nisha and I went for our anniversary holiday directly after - A huge thanks to Burna and Darren for the arranging this event (and anyone else who helped!), absolutely loved it and it was so good to catch up with friends, old and new I couldn't think of a better group of people to spend a weekend with

An update on this old thread with some good and some bad news: After nearly 6 years of using this car as the daily driver it's now approaching the time it should go to a new owner who might hopefully take care of the paint problems. Now that my replacement Supra is nearing the end of it's build it's time to take the nicer parts off this car and swap them over to the new car. The car has changed a bit since the earlier pics in this thread but I never got the motivation or money to have it re-sprayed. That said it's been incredibly reliable and I've never had a breakdown or major problem since it was MOT'd in 2010. The car was serviced a couple of months ago and completed an 1100 mile round trip to the Le Mans classic last weekend without a single issue - the very expensive TVR my mate was driving broke down 4 times in the heavy traffic! Toyota reliability at it's best I'm going to be extremely sad to see this car go as although the body work is poor it's been the most reliable/dependable car I've ever owned. A for-sale thread will be posted up in the coming month or two for a realistic asking price. I will be swapping the UK brakes and the TRD diff for stock ones though

The TT exhaust will fit on to the standard NA 2nd cat pipe directly. I've had a stock UK TT exhaust on my NA for years. For info, you can get the whole exhaust in a supra cabin without splitting it... provided there's no passenger

It's available everywhere, even Halfords stock it. Do follow the guide Malcolm posted if the fluid isn't nice and clean and the system still isn't working correctly, it solved a similar issue with my PAS system.

We spoke as we were queuing for the tunnel on the way back, but I forgot to ask your name. That's a really nice looking Supra you have

A certain club member on here tried to do the same to my 'singled' car, while the filter was off and the engine running. I managed to stop him in time, but only just. Apparently he wanted to see if he could stop it spinning

Interesting thread as I'm in a similar dilemma. I have driven a couple of cars with the T56 and can confirm what CW says, they are quite clunky and don't have the best throw, but I wouldn't say they're significantly more agricultural than a used V160. The BMW option is the one I'm waiting to hear more about, specifically from how Jamie gets on with his one. If you can use Excel there's a document here which shows the stock options and how they impact gearing and speed: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?225050-Supra-specific-gear-diff-ratio-and-tyre-size-calculator

That's stunning! congrats

I need to drive my car about 1000 miles next weekend, but the PAS cooler line has developed a leak. It's on the exposed part and appears to have rusted through. While I'm annoyed I didn't spot this before (in my defence the leak was covered by the stock plastic shielding), I have a problem paying Toyota £250+ for a new line. Is there a quick and simple solution that can be used in it's place? I can't have it go wrong half way through the trip so need something that's going to last the trip.

The polling station was empty when we went, but the village pub next door was packed

Thanks mate, missed that!

The under tray should confirm if there's a leak, but I doubt it's that. Isn't it just the noise of the catalytic converters heating up and cooling?

Will be mate, it's been a while! Are there any more details on this - what time are people getting there? Where about are we meeting, etc?

Glad it went smoothly for you and it looks like a well cared for car

Very good price for these, glad you got them sold. These used to be SO much more expensive.

PM'd

Info on the torque for the bolts and the sealant placement (From the service manual):

As Scooter says, just work your way around to the bolts. Tip though - cover the open area as all sorts of bits of the old wrapping tape will break off, they'll be very brittle. Also don't be surprised if the odd crack develops in the hard plastic. This happened to me despite being very careful. Also (as some miss this) make sure you have the correct packing sealant for the corners around the front end of the cam cover, it's essential and will leak very soon if you don't use it.

Found it, post number 33 in the link below. It seems the HP increase was not what I recall However the mid range torque shows what difference a working variable intake system makes to an NA: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?230114-Lack-of-power-NA

That is some of the worse DIY I've seen on this forum. Good on you for doing a proper job and getting all that cr*p out of there From experience of having an NA (some parts were like your one originally), I can definitely recommend installing the stock fan shroud and fitting a stock intake. It performs so much better (and quieter!). You also mentioned it was sluggish in the mid range... NA's aren't the quickest of cars but if there should be a noticeable pick up around 4-4.5k rpm. I had a similar issue with mine and after a dyno session with Ryan.G, he spoted the 'twin' intake valve was not working due to a disconnected line. This is an absolute nightmare to get to but after it was fixed there was a very noitable improvement in the mid range. I will try and find my old thread about it. Also timing (Via the dizzy cap adjuster) is worth checking especially with a car that has been messed about with, I got an extra 8bhp (ooohhh!) from Ryan tweaking it while on the dyno.

I have no excuse to miss this as I live half a mile up the road See you all there

Hi mate, hope you're well Car spec please - TT engine or NA-T conversion? Auto or manual?

Then there is definitely something wrong with your brakes, as others have said, the brakes should never perform like you explain. It's difficult to say exactly what the issues is from what you've posted. First check would be to see the brake pad condition and what type they are. Abviously as well as the issue with sticking calipers. I tried a set of (free) 'Green stuff' pads once, the performance was so bad I'd say they're dangerous to use! After I used them for about 300 miles I chucked them away and bought some Chris Wilson fast road pads (along with new discs, etc) have never looked back. I wouldn't necessarily say Toyota is the best point of call, they are very expensive and unless you're lucky the mechanics are not all that useful on the older cars. It would be better to find a good specialist in your area (or even further afield).

If it's 600bhp it will have an aftermarket turbo kit with (or should have) a standalone ECU. It's not so difficult to have your mapper set an MOT map to get it to pass the test. Try the garage I sent you a PM about, he'll look after you. If your car is a TT and he sees that sticker he will take the piss (face to face, not on social media, he's a jap car nut and knows his stuff)

Tsia, do you have a link or group where this was shared on FB? I'll be gutted if it's my old car