Homer

Spotted by a friend driving through a town with lots to of tractors and classic cars. Looks very nice.

I really miss attending this meet and you lot after moving away from the area

That's exactly what occurs when the 2nd turbo is not coming online, your dyno graph matches this scenario (The dip in power at 3.5-4k is due to mapping when the ECU expects pre-spool, then full spool to occur, it'll look the same whether #2 is coming online or not). There are some very good suggestions in the posts above this so for sure you should check all these. I would also suggest you try True Twin mode as a test as that should bypass several of the VSV's that can cause the 2nd turbo not to spool. Again, it's not a permanent solution, it just helps diagnose what might be causing it.

Just to add, even before BPU you should see 0.76 bar of boost, this is the out of the factory boost. The fact it's dropped means two possible things: 1) The restrictor is FAR too small (Which I doubt given that's it's come from Whifbitz) 2) There's something else holding back the boost (be it 2nd turbo, wastegate, IC, etc, etc) I'd honestly be looking for an existing problem, but before all that eliminate the restrictor ring with the test that Scooter suggested (It's the easy first step). This is how BPU should look, the pickup from the 2nd turbo should be very visible (It's a 13 year old picture so apologies for the quality). We didn't have smart phones in those days, just print outs and a scanner!

It looks like there might be a turbo or wastegate problem from that dyno graph, it shouldn't look like that. Fully agree with Scooter's approach, but it's essential to re-iterate "cautious"! If the turbo's are working well you'll see 1.6 bar immediately after 4k rpm but you should back off as soon as the boost starts hitting 1.2 bar. Above that is potential detonation territory. It's just a test and only do it once. One that's checked, you'll know both turbo's are working. If it hits high boost then it's a restriction problem. I disagree with others who have said to fit a boost controller, it adds nothing to a jspec with BPU mods (UK/Euro models are a different). They're only useful once exhaust restrictions are reduced to the minimum required level.

Yesterday I was happily driving along at a steady 70 mph for about 100 miles (just cruising within national speed limits ahead of a long trip, no hard use at all), when the engine check light came on and the engine started cutting out. It was intermittent but every second or so. There was no warning at all so I pulled it into a hard shoulder. This is on an NA 5spd. Symptoms: - Rev counter was flipping between zero and actual rpm very quickly - Every time the accelerator was pressed there was an engine cut - Gear change made no difference - RPM made no difference, even when I brought it down to 2k - Engine temp and everything else is fine - Weird to say, but there was an odd smell, not electrical but possibly exhaust fumes - Oil and waters levels are all fine and no sign of actual engine problems What I've learned since: - Error code 41 - Engine starts and runs but it's idling at 1600rpm all the time (Which I understand is limp mode) The error points to TPS which looks like an absolute nightmare to diagnose. Has anyone else experienced this on an NA? I'm leaning towards a wring issue to the ECU since the RPM gauge is feed only. Any advice?

I think I know who this might be

Here's what I mean (thanks someone of FB)

Personally, I've been so disappointed at this new iteration. It was quite okay as the FT-1 but now it looks like a next gen BMW Z4. I've had my name down for a test drive at my local Toyota dealership for nearly a year, I was that keen on getting one I saved quite some £££££ for it I really do hope that the feedback from the lucky people that get to see it up close is positive!

That was me in the daily beater Supra! Were you the guy in the Audi? Edit - wait a minute... I was exiting Weston Favell Tesco petrol station/roundabout at that time, not Mereway, must have been one of the other locals!

Also to answer Fastcar, It's worth a fair premium, I've known the sell for 1k or more in the last year just because it's a large case diff.

Thanks Lee, that's a mod I need to make to the VIN plate calculator. The '04' and 'D' sections aren't listed in the Euro or US spec sheets so I've always been 2nd guessing the UK ones. Odd as I've thought them same/similar to Euro. Indeed you did and thank you for responding to the question, some of us learned something new This also means the diff on my RSP Supra is a B04D, good to know!

Thanks Sunny, well that's what I have in the blue car as the running gear is from a UK auto. I'll have a look at Burna's VIN plate at the next meet

I've also never heard of the '04' coded diff before, it's not in any of the VIN frame documents I have. It might be a late spec VIN/parts change that was made so if that's the case I'd love to see a pic of the VIN plate. It might help the VIN decoder I've been updating the last 10+ years As far as I'm aware there are A/B (Small/Large case) then 01/02/03 (Ratio) then A/B (Open/Torsen) on the diff code B02B or B03B should easily get £1k, but 03's can go for much more.

I also forget to mention the car had an uprated clutch as well... It may not have helped the times too much but probably it's the reason it still has the same clutch today Fully agree with you. I also struggled to get below a 5.5s time on either my TT 6spd or single 6spd on road tarmac. I know better times have been proved in the right conditions and sometimes race track tarmac or sticky tires, but it's hard to get the times the manufacturers or magazines claim in the real world. That's the same for all cars, well, unless you have 4wd and/or modern traction control

6.7 seconds was the best I got on my NA 5spd to 60mph, recorded with a calibrated race-technology accelerometer. It was on a closed road but had good tarmac and was flat. I did many, many runs and this was the best time. Mostly it was in 7.5-8.5 without seriously abusing the clutch. This was with - 22degree air temps and a very dry road - Stock wheels and standard sized tyres. - Nearly new Falken tyres, a fairly soft compound - TRD LSD diff (This helps a LOT with the launch) The 6.7s time was done by massively riding the clutch with a 5k rpm launch. The clutch slipped through 1st and it stank afterwards, but it was the only way I could get it to do that time on the road. Day to day my wife's 320D BMW is the quicker car A to B. The NA Supra is really compromised with it's low torque (by modern standards) and is not so fun to drive in straight lines. Corners & braking are another matter

There's a name for every SupraPod event, this one was WindyPod Thanks to everyone who organised the event, it was a great day out. So many people to meet from more recent to the really the old days of the club, really good to catch up with you all

Bumper and skirts are removed. They were both bonded on, the skirts came off without too much trouble but the trial rear didn't come off without a fight. It was bonded but also painted over. THe car will need to go to the paint shop anyway so I'm not too concerned. Good news is the car is very straight underneath it all and there's no other visible damage from the bodykit. However getting the tiger seal off the rear quarters is going to be "fun"! Might leave that job to the bodyshop.... The rear crash bar is quite rusty but that's not unusual. Next step is to get a low lift jack so I can finally get the rear end in the air for diff, driveshaft and prop removal. I also need to remove and replace the aftermarket fuel lines. They are far too big for my needs (10mm supply and return!) and at least one of them has split (Not great considering Jason bought these brand new and they were never actually used).

Indeed, though I did have a suspicion it wasn't all good underneath. No idea why! I have two young man! The silver NA is my daily (slow) drive Only reason I don't bring it to meets is the suspension is very hard and my wife has large breasts, I can't stand the complaining

Job for the weekend is to remove the Trial rear. It looks to be heavily bonded so getting it off in one piece is going to be a challenge.

It's been a while since this was updated and to be honest I've done absolutely bugger all on the car since then. It's grown a new layer of moss and lots of spiders have made it their home. However after a change of job and with new enthusiasm (after the S-Club meet) I'm restarting work on it. One thing that's held me back is I can't get the car jacked up due to the skirts and rear bumper so after a lot of thought (and input from others) I've decided to go back to stock. The bad news is that it revealed corrosion on the jacking points and welding work is going to be needed. I'll try and get some pictures over the weekend. The points are not strong enough to jack the car up as it's pushing the jack through the sill joints. However with the trial rear gone I can use the diff as a jack point which should mean I can get it raised up enough to do the gearbox removal. Veilside skirts removed:

Actually the guy in the garage I spoke to mentioned it was bought from a guy in Leicester, my first thought was yourself It's been kept in great condition.

This car was stunning, Ridox kitted and immaculate paintwork. I think the owner is the son of someone who works there. Anyone here?

Sounds like an interesting project. I've read some of the built threads in the US for the Cummins swaps, they weight a hell of a lot and it won't be a quick car, nor handle very well but I'm sure you'll make it work. Each to their own but always interesting to see something different! I managed to get from the first pic to the last pic for about £500, but that was mostly due to the incredible generosity of the club members here.