Rob W

Press the hubs out first with some plates either side, then remove circlip which holds the bearing in and press out. My bearings needed about 9 tonne of pressure to get them out, also when pressing out the hubs it took the inner race with it which didn’t bother me as I replaced for new but if your on about using the same hubs you will need to slot the race and tap off. A couple of photos in my build thread in Projects for removal/replace that may help mate.

Small package of random bits I missed from Amayama, I noticed when putting the prop back in that the new OEM doughnut was for an N/A so I had to fit the old one for getting the car out. Made some blocks to sit the rear wheels on now the back end is pretty much complete except a few minor things. Removed the prop again to fit the correct doughnut and torqued everything up, got a whiteboard up now so I remember what needs to be torqued and checked. Now it’s on to the front, will sheet the car up and get cracking on taking it all back when I next get the some free hours.

IIRC when the terminals are bridged, if the light is constantly flashing it denotes no error codes are stored.

ZG-90 Cold galv spray Matt, leaves a decent finish and pretty tough

As I had it out the car I decided to take the gear shifter apart to make it look abit better, albeit your never going to see it. Cleaned it up, Hydrate 80 then galv sprayed it to see how the finish would come out. Not perfect but a lot better then it was. Also managed to get the front wings and bumper off this morning to start on the front end. All come off without any snapped bolts to deal with which was nice, little wins are always welcomed!

Thanks chaps, slowly getting there. Got the diff, prop and driveshafts all in and connected up so I could get the car out the garage for getting to the bolts for the front wings and remove the central glovebox to get to the old handbrake cable bolts. Was nice to see it out the garage, first time in just over 2 years.

Onto the reassembly of the diff, the was a time consuming job to do especially when I’ve never done it before so was being cautious on every step. The previous bearing races pressed out with shims, getting the main bearing off the pinion was a task on its own. First thought was to use the press with making slots on the outside to press off but that didn’t work, second option which was far the easiest was using the puller tool I bought just incase was the one! Reassembly parts, all new OEM for the rebuild. I did print off the Diff reassembly TSM also so we had something to refer to. New bearings pressed on to the Diff, then crown wheel swapped over. These bolts require to be torqued then another 90 degree IIRC. I didn’t take any photos of pressing the new bearings in etc as we was in it and was trying to get it completed after doing a service on my Cupra. Didn’t manage to get it all complete, so my brother kept it and installed the pinion using the air gun for the main pinion nut to take the slack up. You need to be careful not to go mad with the air gun as the crush washer is a one trick pony, he used the gun till the vertical slack was gone. Diff dropped back to mine, I could continue with setting the preload and checking the gear mesh pattern. I adapted my front crank pulley locking tool I made for the Fluidampr, this will hold the flange in place whilst tightening up the main pinion nut. I had to put this on the floor, with the ratchet in both trolley jack handles to get this to tighten going little bit at a time then checking the preload using my inch pound torque bar. Preload finally set to the upper limit of 16 in-lb (with new bearings) incase this figure does change slightly when been run. First preload figure is without anything attached. Then it’s time to put the diff in with the side axles carriers but without the seals just to check the gear meshing. Just put 2no. Bolts in the carriers to hold them in place. I spent a lot of time checking the pattern, looking a different information and I think the mesh pattern is suitable. Next was to clean up and check the back lash, I had around 0.15mm at 3 points so all within the maximum of 0.5mm. Then it was time to fully assemble taking back out the side carriers to install the new rubber gaskets with some red rubber grease, axle studs with new snap rings and the diff cover with locate RTV sealant. The below shows the axle stubs knocked in but not fully, you need to turn the housing on its side to give them a good lump that get them into final position. All assembled and preload checked again and at the top limit of total preload which IIRC it can be up to a maximum of 6in-lb on top of your first preload measurement.

Petrol Tank prepped and re-sprayed which lead me onto being able to put the rear bumper back on. 4no. Fixings each side for the rear bumper, easily to forget the top fixing if missing from previous removal, I have never noticed it prior. The 9no. new OEM clips across the top used has made the bumpers a nice tight fitting. Rubbed down the exhaust/decats and gave them a coat of Hydrate 80 and a few coats of VHT black. Another delivery of parts that I missed, main item I missed the larger Diff Pinion bearing which had delayed me getting the diff back together.

Thanks mate, yes indeed! That’s a shadow from the light, normally you wouldn’t see this step in the arch as it’s heavily coated in the yellow underseal from factory. Photo as below which highlights what I am describing.

Rear calipers on as the bolts arrived today, also got the rear ARB’s fitted. When using the OEM bolts with Whifbitz ARB’s to me they are slightly too small for a solid fixing with the holes in the ARB’s Brackets and spacers so I added a stainless Steel washer for piece of mind. Chucked one of the wheels on to see how they look behind, pretty happy with how they look against the grey

Thanks Matt, yes I’m hoping they should contrast well against the grey colour of my GTC’s. Ordered a set of yellow coated S/S Goodridge brake lines also to tie it in underneath, my original braided lines are clear with orange ends and started to look abit tired so thought that was a good enough excuse to replace!

Got the bits back from being sprayed, really happy with the colour and matches the KW springs as what I was looking for, my brother spent even more time on them getting the caliper finish as flat as possible. Had some time yesturday starting on putting the calipers back together, still waiting on 2no. Stainless Steel Front pistons that I needed to replace from Chris Wilson but all built up barring that. The decals are slightly larger than what I used before but still look ok, just waiting on the new bolts so I can get them onto the hubs. Also gave the rear end a fresh coat of 199 & clear whilst I had the gun out doing the rear crash bar. The diff bolts have arrived which I forgot to order with the rest of the bits so looking to get this build in the next few weeks so I can get that back in…if all goes well me putting it back together!

Looks amazing mate, bet you’re over the moon. Absolute stunning job done by the guys.

Delivery from Yam6 arrived quickly, new rear Crash Bar and Petrol Tank cover. Extremely well packed, no dents which was nice to see. Unfortunately will require to be re-sprayed but I assume these are delivered to them like this from Toyota Japan so can’t really complain.

I’ll have a look on the weekend mate, that’s not a bad idea Hopefully have these sprayed by next weekend for working on it over the Xmas Break.