cg084

Hello, I have an import Supra SZ. I only have 1 key for the car. After my last car which had a chip built in top the key for an immobiliser i am unsure as to wether there is one on the current key. This would mean that i have to buy a special key. Just too much to risk only having the one key. If the key is standard i can just get away with getting a key cut locally. The current key has 2 buttons. 1 to lock and 1 to unlock the doors which i had taken the battery out of to get a replacement. If you need more info let me know. Cheers.

Hi all, After my weekend of wire hunting decided to have a look at the Fan speed and temperature setting dials since the illumination does not work. It is intermittent at working. Very rarely comes on. It came on the other day after the cigarette lighter popped. I took the unit apart and examined the tracks. The board was a little tarnished in places but i beleive that it is nothing major. I examined the contacts on the connectors to the bulbs. They looked a little dull. Both bulbs are OK (Filaments intact). I lighlty freshened these contacts. I examinad all of the wires on the board. To my knowledge it all appears fine. If anyone has had any similar problems and that you have got any ideas please let me know. If i find anything i will let you know. Cheers. Craig

Hi All, After spending a great deal of time working on the car this weekend trying to discover my fault with the Electric Ariel. traced wires all over the shop. After blowing the Rad 2 7.5Amp fuse the ariel worked but tape player did not. At this point the ariel would go up when the ignition was turned on and would go down when it was turned of. Currently was no good since the player would not work with this fuse out. Replaced the Rad2 fuse and back to square 1. After looking over the circuit in the relay. I believe that it is probable the Op Amp chip from AT&T that has failed. Rather than paying the £130 from Toyota i thought i would have a go at repairing it. If anyone has any information regarding the circuit for this relay it would be appreciated. Or if they have had similar problems and managed to repair it. Thank you Right hold it there i can now get radio 1.

All, I have tried spraying with WD but nothing so far has worked to clear the problem. Quite the opposite it seemed to just cut out as soon as my foot went on the clutch to change gears. The remainder of the gear change being used to bump start the car again and coninue. It did this about 8-9 times on saturday morning until i limped to the garage. Where the engine was off for about 5 minutes then started and run fine. Until i used the car to go out on saturday afternoon. Was going to try and remove the IACV on sunday to see what that was like but realised i would more than likely need to remove the throttle body to get to the damn awkward bottom screw on the sensor. Checked all air intake pipes up to the throttle body. Checked the oil and water levels all ok apart from the murky brown/reddy rad fluid. May look at flushing the rad but i will have to wait to do that. I have got the car booked in to the local garage on wednesday so will see what they say. The car with a bit of luck will play up when they pick it up so they know what to look for. If anyone else has any ideas.

Just wanted on this bulleting. I believe my prob is similar. Only thing is does you problems cause the revs to become lower or even cut out at rest? Cheers Craig.

Hi, I have a Jap N/A Supe. All is standard factory spec. I have a problem with the engine idle. All the time the idle is constant. Does not appear to miss a beat. Most of the time once the engine is warmed up the idle appears to be around 4-500 RPM just about stalling rattles the whole car when like this. Sometimes it will actually stall. After a long drive it may work things out and runn at around 6-800 RPM which is fine. Most of my driving is about 30 miles to work and then the 30 miles home. Never realy go anywhere else. From starting the engine from cold it will idle at about 1400-1500RPM which i believe is ok. but when the choke goes off to idle the engine normally 95% of the time it idles too low. I have tried to see if this is weather related but there is no visible link to wet weather, cold weather or even warm weather. Mostly seems to cut out after i have gone about 1 mile from home after first starting the car. Allways stalls when i have left the house rather than when i leave from work at the end of the day. I have had the intake air temperature sensor replaced and there was no difference. The only thing i have noticed is that it is becomming more common from week to week for the idle to go low. I have looked at other threads and nothing really seems to stand out to me. Similar probs on other cars and mostly seems to be an idle control valve. So if you know of any tests for this that would be great. Also should it be displayed on the diagnostics. My local garage does the diagnostics for free. Saves me and my speaker wire. If anyone has and suggestions tips tests. Anything really it is greatly appreciated. Cheers Craig.

Hiyall, I am having problems with both the fan speed and temperature control knobs on the dashboard. Both of these do not appear to like being illuminated. It used to be a case of tapping the temperature knob and all would be OK until the next time. Both bulbs are fine and are not blow. I am maybe thinking along the lines of a loos or broken wire. Should anyone have any ideas it would be appreciated. Cheers Craig.

Hiyall, I have a similar problem with my supe. From cold will idle with choke at around 1300-1500rpm. I think this is quite high but i dont know what it is meant to be. The problem i have seems similar. Once warmed up more often than not the engine seems to idle at around 400-500 RPM to me seems like the engine is close to stalling. Sometimes it does stall. It does this for quite a while sometimes there is no difference after i have run the car for a while. Or even if i stop and restart the engine. Weather also seems to have no effect. Was alright in the recent snow and when there has been heavy rain. Sometimes it runs OK and there is no problems. It is then fun to drive. but i am getting fed up of left foot breaking while utilising the right foot to maintain the revs. I have had work carried out on the car to replace the air intake temperature sender unit no change with that. I am also waiting to have the speed sensor no1 replaced and am hopefull that this may have an impact. In the meantime if anyone has any thought it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Craig.

All, Still no joy with this. The car has warranty from the garage i bought it from but when i called to get all this sorted sincei have also had a problem with the lower suspension arm and a wheel bearing the warranty company tells me that it is not covered in the warranty i got with the car and the garage i bough it from does not return my calls. Bit of a pain i traded a 2.6 Audi A6 for this and i believe that i am seriously regretting it now. Spoke with my local garage and although they are unsure about the Speedo Converter they are having the car back again for a 4th time now to check over the car yet again. But so far the bill for repairing this wallet monster is at £800 and the bill is going to rise with this trip in to the garage. None of this appeared to be wrong on the test drive but the engine warning light only comes on at 50 mph or higher once warmed up. Bit difficult to get to these speeds in the middle of birmingham. And i do believe that my eyes could not have noticed the slight bend in the front Lower suspension arm. Which since that was changed it was revealed that a new bearing would be needed. Hoping to have sorted this out by xmas but now it seems i will have the car back and i will be forced in to overdraft. If i get any more news i will kep you posted and any more problems from the supplier of my car (where i bought it from i will go so far as to name and shame. Hope noone falls in to the same trap especially since they have another Supe for sale. Older year though. Cheers All Merry Christmas :flame Dev

Hi, I like to see them going sideways but more from inside the car as to look at there motions of controling sideways. With the supra being my first rear drive motor and having recently lost the back end trying to avoid the git pulling out infront of me. I believe i need to understand the skidding and controlling more. Deeply concidering an advanced driving course. But i will also wait til there is some snow on the ground. Large carpark at night. No kerbs and light with streetlights. Somewhere quiet too. So as not to disturb anyone. Had fund doing that in my first car a mk1 golf 1100cc. Would like to do the same with my na supe. Just want to know my limits and the cars.

Hi, After thinking more about this problem i decided to take the speedo out of the car to look at the signal converter. After looking at this the gare that fitted it. (The place where i bought the car from had just cut the Blue/Red wir to the speedo and twisted the signal in (KPH) wire toward the wiring loom end of the Blue/Red wire. They had also twisted the Signal Out (MPH) wire to the speedo end of the Blue/Red wire. The only other wires connected were the posotive and earth leads. These are simply fastened to 2 seperate screws on the back of the Speedo. I had to tidy and place proper connectors on to the wires but i still have the problem with the Light. The speed sensor has now been replaced. The only difference is the length of time it takes for the light to come on. It takes a little longer. As for the signal converter it is a rather small unit only about 15mm thick, 20mm wide and about 25-30mm in length. Looks rather cheap. I would like to know whether the fitment of this converter is what is causeing the warning code 42 to display on my pride n joy. Hope someone can tell me whether there could be a problem. Cheers for the help to all those above and below. Craig.

Hi all, Where can the transfers be procured from. I know my brakes are a little tatty and could do with a clean n paint. Craig

Yeah but that was just Stig they now have Stig the White had a similar battle after the jag as gandalf from Lord of the Ringers.

Guys n Gals, I watch a lot of Top Gear on channel 2 on a sunday night. Keep looking at that Super car performance board. I keep wondering how dar up the board a Toyota Supra TT could go. Would like to see a couple of time on there. 1 for the total original non modified TT supra and then another for a 600BHP or so Supra. How do you think that these would fair up.

Hi, When you say a bad solder would that cause the speedo to not operate correctly. I will have a look at the back of the speedo when i get my car back. Only had it about 2 weeks then crashed it while some git shot out in front of me and left the scene of the accident. Broke my car and was gone by the time i got out of it. Needless to say i am fuming :flame Dev

Hi, After the probs i am having with mine. I need to get import parts. The local Toyta dealer is very uncooperative and will not even look at me. The car is now off the road until parts can be found. Aparently the lower wishbone needs to be replaced an air sensor. The garage has managed to get some part the car needs. This is highly urgent cause i am now stranded with no car to drive. So the sooner i can find an importer for Jap car part the sooner i can get an order placed. Hopefully they will be reasonable prices and stock good quality parts. Hope you can help.

Guys n gals, Any luck on the manuals yet? Just i would be very interested in one if someone has got one.

Hi, No active spoler on mine. Jus a plain old SZ with no extras. From other postings i can only assume a botched conversion to MPH on the speedo. But i have no other real way of testing it. Other than if all the sensors have been tested it would appear to be the most logical choice. But the dealer speacalises in Imports. I must assume that that they would know the best converter to go for. Otherwise they would have had other complaints. Cheers

Thinking about a Sigma although the thought of only 1 button on the remote is putting me off or going for a ToadAi1600 which has 2 buttons on. Hoping to have it set up to do the boot. Yes Lazy i know. Which would you recommend?

Hi all, I am still having a problem. wit this. Car is going back in to the garage this week again. It has had a dig tool plugged in and they told me that it is err code 24 an air sensor. But the symptoms i get are that of 42. I really like the car but is it worth it with all these garage trips. When am i going to get to drive my lovely car. It only comes on when the engine is warmed up. Only when i am going above 55 MPH. I have had the car for just a couple of days over a week. Seriously thinking about taking it back getting my dosh back and waiting to get a TT. My only other alternative is scraping some money back from the dealer i got it from. I found the local Toyota dealer unhelpful. Lots of HMM and import. We will have to see whether it will this and that. Fed up to be quite honest. Going to give it one more try with the garage then i am going to rid my self of it. Pitty since it is a nice car when i get to drive it. Before i forget it has also started cutting out mostly when i am changing gears on the move. Tonight it was while going from 4th to 5th gear. Was not giving any well and was going down hill. It has done it on the flat when waiting to pull out of a junction and also when going along on a flat. :(

I think my next move is to look at the stereo. I have not looked at the fittings to remove that part of the dash but i do not want to try until i am sure of where they all are. I am very happy with the ICE that is there a Kenwood MD CD player with surround sound. Bonus for me. Cheers.

Hi, After this mornings cold weeather. I had the misfortune of trying to get in the car. Well the side windows had frozen to the door seals. Is the a good treatment for the rubber to stop this happening. Also is there some king of wd40 type spray other than de-icer to spray in the locks to stop them sticking in the cold weather. I can remember seing stuff to do the job but cant remember where or even the name. Cheers.

Hi, Once again another problem. The electric ariel does not appear to work on my fab car. I do not hear the motor running when the stereo goes on and can only assume that it is buggered or the signal wire is broken. Without a wiring diagram i need to know which colours of wire are the posotive and negative. Any help appreciated.

ENGLAND WON !!!!! YIPEE All cheers for the help. I had a word with them today about the alarm. It is going to be fitted on Tuesday. For their peace of mind they are getting hold of a jap electric sheet from the alarm company. Then the next thnig to do is to race and play in the wet. Once again Cheers.

Hi guys, Feel like i have never stopped asking questions on here. Must return the favour. Well i had my car booked in to get an alarm fitted by a certified dealer. They are a little reluctant for it to fit it until they have some help if needed. Mainly they are unsure with it being from Japan as to whether the wiring loom is different between the jap and uk specs. Just incase there is a problem. Could you let me know if there are any differences or if you had any problems after getting an alarm fitted. Cheers Craig