dangerous brain

I believe the thread can be locked. If the engine it goes pop you only have both of you to blame now!

Wow hasn't this gone all snotty? I think the general gist though is that if someone is entrusting their vehicle to someone else that they are paying to instal something such as a single turbo conversion usually it is expected that the person that is being paid to undertake the work would have at least a basic understanding of the work that was being performed. A fundamental lack of turbo system knowledge does not convey a great deal of confidence especially if the turbo kit has been cobbled together by someone else that has a lack of technical knowledge. This is how friendships get ruined and long term relationships spoiled. An effort undertaken in good faith and intention can result in too much collateral damage due to a lack of technical knowledge of two different people. That is why I believe people are justifiably concerned about the question asked in this thread by a person that is being entrusted with another persons vehicle. If it was someone asking about their own vehicle than the connotations wouldn't be quite so heavy

I had hunting idle RPM on my TT and that was a cracked TPS

Low brake fluid, could also mean your pads are all well worn as brake fluid generally doesn't tend to leak but it does fill up callipers as they move out to take up the gap made by thinned down pads.

Hotside looks quite big though? That is not a bad price at all if there is any truth that prices are on the up.

There's been reasonable TT aero's sell for £8500ish so for about £11k you could in theory get the car and the box if you don't have labour charges. Be a tall order or a ropy car for £10k all done. That said last year there was a red aero TT went for £5500 which I was tempted by but I wanted a black car and it looked a bit tatty.

You take a gamble on any second hand engine of the age these ones are now irrespective of if its in a car or not. Just seems crazy to me to take a two and a half grand gamble when you need to pay out to have the engine installed. I'd rather pay the £3500 I saw a rebuilt engine on here for recently than £2500 for one that could be living on borrowed time. I'm sure somebody maybe Jurgen was talking about bringing a load in from Japan that had been dumped out of cars because it was cheaper to install new crated lumps than put them through a Shaken out there? Or maybe I am imagining it. I'm also sure I remember seeing a photo of a load of aristo engines in a Malaysian scrap yard going for pennies. If you've got a decent rolling shell with new suspension, brakes and consumables like exhausts etc why not buy a crated lump? Anyone know what Mr T charges for a long block these days?

It is getting that way which for old engines with little or no history is pretty daft.

Here's something a bit different, a beemer diesel box in an aristo! http://clubaristo.net/forums/showthread.php?23238-94-Jzs147-Single-Turbo-Aristo/page75&highlight=bellhousing

The auto box has a manual mode so if driven in Manu you get no nasty surprises. Take the TT stock traction control off and buy some decent winter tyres and you'll be fine. This utter drivel that high powered cars are crap in the ice and snow needs to be addressed. Get the right tyres and it doesn't matter what car you have it'll drive fine. A few years back in my auto TT aristo I passed countless fwd and even 4wd cars going up a notorious hill in the snow with my foot flat to the floor with decent winter tyres on (traction control on the mk2 aristo embarrasses the supra's) . My current Beemer has 275 19's on and after I put the verde stein winters back on I will have no issues with driving in any snow or ice on untreated roads. Biggest issue I've come across in heavy snow is the wheels filling up with snow and ice and causing wheel balance problems.

Sailor jerries is a posh Morgans which I also really like. Will have to source the Mexican beer and this rum mentioned

Staropramen is made in Alton Hampshire by the Bass brewery, do the quick brewery trip and see if you can smash ten pints of it down in the bar at the end before time is up Duvel will muller poor Jazz as its 8.0% and packs a whallop! A nice alternative to peroni that isn't generally as pricey is birra morretti. Stella has never been the same since they changed the recipe to make it 5.0% instead of 5.2% Carlsberg is an OK 4% beer but its export strength 5% brother is king of cheaper lagers. You can get it in pint cans at Iceland for £1 a can regularly. Kronenborg is a decent tap beer but it does have a rep for turning people doo-lalley! Has anyone tried the desperado's mint?

Go to Belgium on holiday mate. Brugge isn't far from the ferry and has an establishment that has like 1200 different beers

My wife lets me drive her supra occasionally

Nothing a turbo or two wouldn't cure

I think that people forget around here that there are owners of supras that aren't enthusiasts out there and the cars they own are likely to be proper bags of nails that feasibly wouldn't be worth much more than a grand so getting two grand for it is a bargain for them. Gets a proper nail off the market thereby reducing the amount of those nails knocking about and yes helping to hold prices up.

We've got a full body resprayed aerotop so it has to be worth our while going N/A-T as a TT transplant is no cheap option either especially if you then intend on going on to a single conversion. If you look at the recent black TT aerotop that sold recently in a good condition was considered cheap at £8500 then I'd need to lay out another £4k on top of what I bought my N/A for in order to upgrade and then I'd have to wait for a black one to come up which happens once n any given blue moon!! Agreed though that a lot of cars it is not worth doing either job.

So in all reality if my onset of the nee naaah noise on my 530D turns out to be a turbo on its way out then looking at a petrol T61 or smaller sized turbo on a custom manifold with waste gate might not be that bad an idea as long as I can push enough diesel in to cope with the additional available air?

You could always get yours refurbed at quite a lot of places if you'd prefer the peace of mind of having something renewed rather than risking an unknown element and you don't need the car for a week or so to get them turned around.

So you read about trims and all that jazz. Is it the trim that makes the difference between a Z and an R on HKS turbo's or just the fandangled intake on the Z? How do these GT3582's work in relation to the old school T67 72 88 etc? Odd question but what sort of size turbo's do diesels run and are they stronger or weaker than petrol equivalents? I know a few diesels run variable vane turbo's now, are variable vane turbo's available on the aftermarket for petrol cars or is there no point because of longer rev ranges?

So reset the ECU it maybe has learned slow driving and I again say flush the box as it sounds box related. Mine needs flushing for sure. Mine is now dropping a missed cylinder in occasionally when in gear at a stand still, knock it into neutral and it doesn't miss.

There's a big single turbo flatbed truck knocking around somewhere as well lol

Rear calipers do seize. I had one on my old N/A seize and I suspect one on my current N/A is seizing on as well as I get heavy juddering that starts at 90 leptons which is usually back end related. The other thing that can drastically improve things on an ageing auto is doing a gear box oil flush. I did one on my old N/A and it made the pick up better, the gear changes slicker and it just drove a lot better. I dunno wether to bother on my current N/A as a conversion is firmly on the cards. Finding a TT black aerotop is nigh on impossible (apart from the one that is now on the forum FFS) so I went with an N/A. I'd sell ours and buy the TT that's for sale now but I'd end up selling mine and missing the other one ending up with no supra lol. It does feel embarrassingly slow and my 530D would literally muller it!

Sanya no-one is suggesting this is changed out every year or 10k service but as it's rubber in the middle I would hazard a guess in the region of ten years somewhere in real life and for safety the OEM would probably go with 6-7 years so yes I would concur with Swamps on this one and suggest in line with a cambelt service. Phone Toyota though as you would think that they could tell you. It may well be that it is in fact not classed as a service item but left as a failure item like a lot of other parts. Fact is there must be hundreds of thousands of cars out there with rubber dampened crank pulleys ticking away waiting to fail. I believe white supra boys crank pulley let go on his N/A came fully off and got dragged up into the tensioner that smashed a load of his ancillaries and into the cambelt which shredded messing his engine up.

There should be pictures on here. It's an old fault and I remember seeing pictures when I fixed my first one over ten years ago. It is very simple though. When you take the whole thing out of that top piece of dash you can see the spikey bits previously mentioned. Daub a blob of solder flux on them there spike ends, heat up a soldering iron and dab a blob of solder on it. Touch said blob on each spike in turn until the solder surrounding the spike shines up and you can see it flow. Remove iron from spike. Et voila you should have fixed it. http://mkiv.com/techarticles/trac_off_mil_odo/index.html Can't find the one on here but that tech article takes you through the whole thing