dangerous brain

Price might have something to do with that. I am sure I've seen a specialist seller of mint UK spec supras advertising maybe on ebay from Havant. Prices always made me larf my head off though. I am fairly confident that seller had a storm blue one a while back. I'd like a red UK spec in that interior but that sort of money is a serious investment.

The swap over is actually a relatively simple affair that has been done to death on here. You can get an aristo lump but these days they are not as cheap as they used to be and the hassle factor of swapping over sumps and other niff naff make the cost difference negligible. The cheapest option appears to be the 1JZ-GTE swap by the looks of it if you can do the swap with cheaper labour and then flog the running donor on. The future value of a car like that becomes bespoke though and selling it will require all of your traders skills.

See I don't get the logic here. Surely the amout the car cost you to buy is a positive factor towards selling and buying a TT? You'll make money you didn't have that can go towards the new TT. In fact it makes much more sense to put the profit into a TT, you will in effect get into a TT for less money than most would.

Yeah weird cos my BMW won't start without the clutch in.

I will probably be out here anyway that weekend. Be fun to bring the supra out instead of the Beemer Barge. My gaffs got spare room if anyone is really stuck which is less than an hour South of Rotters. Green flag do a good temporary European recovery service which I had to make use of once when my shoguns fuel filter blocked on the way home. I would recommend them for sure.

That is as new a non-vvti as you'll get as well.

I've used blueprint replacement ball joints and suspension arms http://clubaristo.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9659&d=1288686222 1 of ZADT38692[1] Blueprint ADT Part Numbers UPPER SUSPENSION ARM - ADT38692 Total Price £46.50 1 of ZADT386120[1] Blueprint ADT Part Numbers LOWER BALL JOINT - ADT386120 Total Price £52.30 Those are the aristo components but I don't think the supra ones are much different.

Aristo TT engine drops in with a sump and some other tweaks I can't remember so it is not so difficult. Surely though a discarded N/A engine from a TT transplant are abundant enough to be proper cheap?

Well jealous!!

Erm really? what the actual F is that? I have never seen that kind of eruption before and I've had a few deisels.

If I am already in Holland can I drop in on the convoy?

I'm guessing the donor will already have the clutch sorted if it was previously running. As per the same sort of question I asked you'll need a modification of some sort to make your clocks work which by all accounts Keron knows about. With it being manual I imagine you'll have less wiring problems not more especially if the donor was running and they'd sorted out the park switch and neutral switch issues.

Added complication being it is an aristo engine. I would get the entire lump and box with ECU and the bits I need. All I would need is a way of driving a speedo or a replacement speedo I think?

Is it a big issue to use a VVTi TT engine and box to convert an NA aerotop to TT? Would a VVTi instrument cluster get around the clocks difference? What else would be an issue?

Watched the new Paddington movie yesterday. Was surprisingly good. I can see why they gave it a PG as the early scenes might be a bit scary for some kids and some elements are a bit ominous. As it isn't an animated film the dangerous things like flying behind a bus and filling the bathroom full of water could be deemed as inciting impressionable kids to daft behaviour (bearing in mind kids jumped off rooves when super-man first came out lol) On a whole though I haven't laughed out loud so much at a film in a long time. The story was pacy enough to hold my attention all the way through without being in your face all the way through. A good film that the whole family can watch together as the adults can get the subtle sub-humour whilst the slapstick entertains the kids and the ladies can enjoy the romantic angle

One thing to be aware of is some classic policies don't allow you to drive them to work which when you need to drive a car across the winter to keep the damp out of it doesn't help alot

Yuasa are very good batteries for the money

Auto-wipers are the bomb. So used to auto-dimming mirrors I don't remember driving in the dark without one now. Another way around the issue my be a big gay wing

I got one of those vag group flippy keys for my last supra and the laserline alarm circuit board was a perfect fit inside it so it was a fully functional remote flippy key. I also had one of the spangly shiny ones with the emblem in the middle in black.

I will want a full and proper TT upgrade on the Mr's NA aerotop so looks like a donor is available! Having met two welsh dudes that ran a supra that turned out to be a cut and shut into a telegraph pole at 90 mph I'd be fairly confident that all occupants walked away from that incident no issues.

Two things, availability locally and the cost of the entire setup including the whole big cylinders full of gas. If you can afford to drop a tonne of cash into a couple of years supply of nitrous then the bigger option is better. If not you'll have to hold your tongue as you get robbed at the pump!

The seats have got memory positions that an ecu will control. They are also heated but chances are the drivers one won't be as the elements break in them and require repairing.

I think the main thing with an engine that has many miles on it is it has settled. The components have bedded in against each other and those that didn't fail have found a sort of symmetry. You throw in a whole bunch of new components and it unbalances the engine. There is then a chance that a new component won't quite bed back in with another component and it will adversely affect the wear rate of those components or another one near it. The other aspect is that no matter how anally clean a rebuild is, it is inevitable that some tiny foreign object will make it inside an engine somewhere be that a fluid or a solid object and where that foreign object ends up can cause detriment to an engine. Purpose built engine reconditioning facilities with fully proven procedures and components can and do reduce the risks but there is good reason we used to put rebuilt helicopter engines onto the test bed for robust shake downs and that is on gas turbine engines where all of the parts only ever go in one direction, the compression is gradual and constant as is the temperature in the heat effected parts.

But if what I am reading is to be believed and if my driving experience is anything to go by "road" and "light track" use will never really maximise a single turbo cars capabilities. Having a car that can go 100k miles on your build is pretty damn amazing but fairly pointless if you are going to drive it legally everywhere 99% of the time and drop one 1/4 mile twice a year. In reality how often does a 600BHP street car bash all 600BHP down on a road? I'd hazard a guess unless it's JP not very often, certainly not often enough to warrant building an engine that could sustain 600BHP for 100k miles. This drops you into risk management. How many runs at top power do you anticipate doing? What is the cost of replacing parts on the car if they go pop? Is this cost more or less than building the engine up to start with? I'm a high risk project manager for a living so I have quite a strong risk acceptance ethic. I'd be interested to see what sort of power you could push out of a stock N/A bottom end and for how long.

I did a pictorial how to about ten years ago. I will have to re-do it when I finally get around to fitting the brand new UK spec brakes I bought for the same price knackered old ones sell on here for I found that the dust shield did not bend so well so I tin snipped it in about inch segments and bent it out of the way that way. The wheel issue is bound to be the biggest stopper as those callipers are big assed bar stewards and need some sensible offset to clear them