Rich J

Good choice. I've been working as a Delphi programmer for the last 5-6 years (almost that's since it came out 16bit). Any help/tips you need just drop us a line.

Why would you have Add on computers if you have a MINES ECU installed? Would sort of defeat the point wouldn't it?

Spoke to RL tech. Very helpful. Suggested that, even though the lights flashed at the right times to indicate good calibration, what I discovered later seems to suggest the TC box lied when it said it was calibrated. Proposed I calibrate *again* and then try the TC before I do any other changes. I can do that. Can't make TRACREAD word. Need 100% DOS and I'm running emulator under W2000. Will be a Windows UI coming out *sometime* but they keep starting and stopping it. I proposed I do it and let them have it for nowt. Surprisingly, they agreed. I'm gonna use newer tools than I currently have to hand (not been a paid applications programmer for a few years now) so I'm just waiting for them to arrive from Grey Matter. Should take me a week or two once I get the tools installed. What are you going to write it in? What were they originally using (did they even start?)? Rich Programmer (Edited by HardHead42 at 6:09 pm on Oct. 8, 2001)

Next thing I was going to mention was the lower limits of 14km/h and 2000 rpm.

Have you put it in set-up mode with the diag plug in and set it up round a 180 degree corner as described in the manual?

Pop in some time

It's a typo Paula :biggrin:

Also if the Plam is running TTL rather than RS232, there will be level shifting circuitry in the cradle in which case you will have to supply power to it as it is usually supplied from the PC end side via the DTR/RTS lines which are not present at on the RLTC (It only has three wires connected (Ground,RXD,TXD), not sure about the Palm V you may be OK but it's definately the case on the Handspring range.

You just go to the shift light menu option and set the RPM you want the light to come on at. It's that simple, I have put mine in the dash of my Integra Type R in a space near the rev counter, glows nice and bright Oops, just read above you don't have the pro version. do you have a manual? It shows all the menu options in there. (Edited by HardHead42 at 11:55 pm on Oct. 2, 2001)

You should definately be feeding the clutch in, as described in the manual. Found the Paragraph Page 24 "A common mistake is to bang the clutch in and instantly spin the wheels. The first 10 meters are the most critical phase, even a small amount of wheelspin at these low speeds is very high in percentage terms. The clutch should be slipped while not breaking traction, but not too much to impede forward progress" Used it on the Integra down at Santa Pod this weekend (got rained out so only had one run). Launch was very smooth and impressive, but needed a few runs to get it set up for the strip so I will have to wait until next year. Oh yes launching at 5500rpm on the VTEC cam is VERY noisy :biggrin: (Edited by HardHead42 at 12:11 pm on Oct. 3, 2001)

They will all be running about the same height because the difference in wheel diameter is compensated for by the tyre wall height, so they will all be about the same height (give or take 1-3%) See the Tyre thread PB started for more info.

The kit Justin is selling will work the full thottle shift too, you just have to feed from one of the pins to a switch on the clutch peddle (not supplied), the shift light is also part of the package, just have to set it with a lap top and the diagnostic light works as a shift light (I have mine installed on the dash), or you can replace the LED with a bulb.

My 2p not very technical with no real figures to back it up but worth thinking about (just what I found running my Supra TT). I installed one of those cheap A/F meters in my car as I was worried about leaning out when running 1.2kg/cm2 boost, I found that at 1.2 the last (richest light) was still on (indicating a rich mixture). I know that these things aren't that accurate but I did manage to get it to only illuminate the second "richest" light by adjusting the fuel down with the APEXi S-AFC (for experimentation purposes), so it must have been working (it also bounced from rich to lean and back at idle and cruising). So it seems like the ECU still provides enough fuel at 1.2kg/cm2. Could it be that the fuel pressure regulator allows higher fuel pressure the higher the boost you run (to a point), that way it could add more fuel at 1.2 even though the ECU only thinks it's running 1.0 (because of an FCD)?

You CAN use HyperTerm to access the RLTC via Windows, as to whether you can get it to see a USB to COM port box is another matter (I presume you get drivers with these converters though to make it look like a COM port). The RLTC is basically just running ASCII text on an RS232 link, is very simple (doesn't even use hardware or software flow control) Try it with Hyperterm in Windows it should work, just copy the data rate settings on PROCOMM. (Edited by HardHead42 at 10:50 pm on Sep. 24, 2001)

Unfortunately not, most I have seen have been over the 40 quid mark and still require a cable for the PDA and an external power supply, and not the sort of thing you can get at PCWorld. the Chip was only 4 quid so will cost me about 20 to make the box (chip, connectors, battery holders etc) plus the cable. Not looking like I will be getting round to it until next week now.

It's called a 'chip' Rich. Every manufacturer has a single chip RS232 driver, including the charge pump to give you the +/- 12V. Stick it on a piece of Veroboard and Bob's your uncle. LOL, I know I have a Max233 TTL to RS232 converter chip in front of me this minute, just got to wire it up and add a 5v supply (niether the RLTC or the PDA have a supply) from few batteries (I have been told it will owrk on a 4.5v supply). probably fix it all up this week end, worst thing is I'm going to have to canabalize a 20 quid Visor Edge USB cable.

Phil did you ever get the software running on your USB only PC? I have suggesfully used HyperTerm to access the RLTC, so hopefully a USB to COM port converter should allow you to access it. I'm also currently constructing an interface to run it via my Handspring Visor PDA but that's another story (involving a little box of tricks to convert TTL to RS232).

SPA Gauges have this facility, you can hook up and external system, i.e. light or buzzer, they are also duel guages (evailable in boost and EGT combination) so you could also have an over boost warning light/buzzer as well as the EGT. The gauge is only 52mm so easy to hide away.

I found the Halfords "winged" blades actually worked better then the Bosch ones even though they didn't look as good.

Those anti roll bars are meaty, arn't they, about same diameter as the standard but the standards are hollow and weigh nothing. Yes they are Koni adjustables (not top adjustable unfortunately), you have to take them off as you have to fully compress (or extend can't remember) to adjust them, which you can't do when they are all bolted up in the car.

Remember the Denso and Toms Supras use 2L turboed engines (possibly based on MR2 units?) sat well back in the engine bay for better weight distribution.

Doesn't answer your question in anyway but have you looked at these the Autotune option seems interesting and may be a way of getting a basic fuel/ign map in? http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/sm2ecu.html seems to be used by a few race teams on EVOs in OZ. Another option http://force-efi.com/dfi.htm http://www.howtogofast.com/pr/mrgasket/accel/74063.htm May not be useful haven't read all the stuff on it http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

Mine was late 95 N, Speedo and ODO convertion done by Eurospec (Camberley), I ran an extra wire from the Speedo divider output to the ECU (cutting the ECU standard output). Hope this helps.

I got mine put on but it took quite a while because one of the rear camber adjuster bolts(?) had been cross threaded and the guy had to wait for one so he did the rest in between jobs while waiting for it. Also the front lower bushes are a pain as they need to be pressed in (and I presume therefore the suspension parts need to be taken of the car), they are worth having done as steering feel is vastly improved. Springs, Shocks, Anti-Roll bars, front droplinks, front lower bushes are all you change though. http://www.whiteline.com.au/yourcar.htm has docs on all the kits they do. (Edited by HardHead42 at 6:26 pm on Sep. 5, 2001)

I got mine from http://www.whiteline.com.au/store/ it's currently AU$1,973.64 by Post AU$2,195.64 by Courier (I got mine DHL) At todays exchanges rates that's 705.393 GBP or 784.737 GBP +10% Duty +17.5% VAT 911-1014 GBP depending on the carrage you decide on, that said I didn't get charged enough Duty/VAT if I remember correctly (not that I'm complaining), or maybe it was a better exchange rate.