Rich J

Datalogger

Nah, you want one of these http://www.takakaira.co.jp/performance/ikeyaformula/sq_shifter.jpg "proper" sequential shifting at a fraction of the cost of a Seq box Video 1 Video 2 Not available for the Supra though. Avaliability

It depends an electonic controller can bring on boost sooner and keep it stable for longer (because it's basically continually adjusting the amount of "bleed" from the system). It really depends what your after, the 50 quid part will do the job.

Thought it may be of interest, says VVT-AT but gives date of 93.05-'97.07. May be worth investigation. Toyota Application List (Japanese) Babelfish it http://www.first-inc.co.jp/buddyclub/computer/toyota.htm Details (Japanese) Babelfish it http://www.first-inc.co.jp/buddyclub/computer/computer.htm

Performance.

I have a pic and basic information here http://members.tripod.com/derestricted/common/mods/ign_ctrl/index.htm It has been discontinued, but I belive Terry used to have one. The APEXi PowerFC does allow ignition control, but I don't think it's available for the Supra. I would use the Jacobs Nitrous Master Mind if I was going for NAAWWWSS!!! http://www.ws6.com/mod-13.htm http://members.tripod.com/derestricted/common/mods/nitrous/index.htm http://members.tripod.com/derestricted/common/mods/nitrous/nmaster.gif

I have delt with Checkerflag before also, very helpful guys can't pay by CC which is a bit of a pain but good apart from that.

I thought it was pads that got glazed?

try http://www.takakaira.co.jp/ if they don't list them send them a mail with the ones you want and a link to the website, they are usually very helpful, and will probably quote yo close to the website price (+ shipping) COst on Jap site of project-mu website http://www.project-mu.co.jp/product-folder/rotor/scr.html

Sense of humour btpass today, just getting over a bad cold and done my back in last week some how

Originally posted by Steve W Mr. "42", WHAT THE *&£%*& does that all add up to ? ? Probably Japanese characters that have no English equivalent I thought you said it was translated ? You've still left it in Japanese! [ or Gobble-de-Gook] It's an electronic translator, they come out with lots of shit but I though people would be interested ps. (*rajietah*) and (*rajietah'hohs*) you MUST have PUT that in....too funny to be REAL ? Nope those are words that do not have Japanese equivalents. In Japan often in such cases (especially with in modern or technical language) the word will be written in Japanese phonetic characters keeping the original (usually English pronunciation (well vagelly)). If you think those are funny the Japanese phonetic characters for Lancer (as in Mitsu's EVO) come out as “Ransar”.

Here's a translation done with TransLingo "1JZ and 2JZ are long the upper hose of (*rajietah*) and (*rajietah'hohs*) such as summer times. The load grows, too. The hose is changed to the Sten pipe. IEfficiently because there is no expansion Cooling water is thrown. Moreover, [it] is put with after part maker's bolt of the water temperature meter on. *** (*hiitah'hoh*) as the water temperature rise is suppressed. became ‚¤‚É‚È‚Á‚Ä‚¢‚Ü‚·‚µ(unknown word) and this professional type The function to bypass from (*su*) to (*rajietah'appah'hohs*) is added. Heat in especially the 5th and the vicinity of the cylinder of sixth of six can be canceled soon by this by-pass function, and to (*rajietah*) Because [it] drinks and load ‚à(unknown word) is reduced, it is possible to lower by five Ž-10Ž in the water temperature. Moreover, the effect is full also in four cylinders and rotary cars. [it] is developing one after another. "

First you have to set the limit you want. Turn off ign. turn it on and start car press green button (keep it held in) rev to where you want it to set the LC let go of the button turn off engine. to use it do what MF said

I think people have to remember that the guys in the US think it's fine to quote they're rwhp from a dyno run they've done with 110ron fuel and the car running at 25psi!!! Once they get them on the road running standard fuel and sensible boost their high dyno numbers are worthless on the street.

Pete one thing that has always bothered me is the inaccuracy of OEM rev counters. My Tach shows approx 9000rpm at the 8500rpm limit (on my PowerFC), but reads spot on at idle. As accurate as digital readout tachs are they are not easy to read on the move as a needle. Could a divice be made that adjusts the signal to the tach so that it could be calibrated against a more accurate source (external source, like custom ECU output or digial tach)? I was thinking it could have a pot to calibrate the upper range and one for the lower range (does that make sanse), so you can adjust the rev limit/shift point reading without affecting the idling needle position (or adjusting the lower reading slightly if it's off, possibly even in the other direction to the upper limit change). Any ideas? Possible?

There could also be a difference in gear ratios that could make a slight difference in 0-60 times.

Didn't have any problem with mine, but then my car didn't last that long after I put them on (About 8 weeks and a trackday at Bentwaters.)

I have an undertray in garage, with bolts somewhere in a cup. 30 quid to anyone that wants to collect. [email protected]

Looking around for ITBs for the Honda and came across this link page. http://www.jenvey.co.uk/Mansyss.htm thought it may be of use.

Some better info on VVT Cam Changing VTEC/MIVEC/VVL Cam-Phasing VVT-i/BMW VANOS Cam-Phasing and Changing VVTL-i

Deleted ramblings as next post has links to better definitions. I think the Supra is Cam-phasing only as I mentioned in the post above.

I think VVTi changed cam timing rather then duration/lift like Honda's VTEC and Mitsubishi's MIVEC. So it only has one profile but adjusts the timing of the cam (not sure which one) to reduce/increase overlap, the Nissan Skyline GT-R adjustable cam works (inlet I think), I believe Nissan call it VVTL.

You realise the steering wheel will be on the wrong side?

When I had both my cats removed with the standard exhaust still in place I got just over stock boost on my j-spec.

Get a Jap Import Civic Type-R one if you can, UK spec is minus LSD, Recaros and the stiffened suspension of the J-spec. I have driven neither but can't imagine the UK spec one will be better than the tweaked J-spec one. Personally I think it looks like a bus, each to their own. Persoanlly I would got for the ITR (oops not biased honest), especially if your thinking of tuning, just too much stuff to mention.