Rich J

OK I have got my set of HKS "Super Fire Racing" sprak plugs from https://www.takakaira.com, They are made by Denso so no chance they won't work just because they are HKS . A set of 4 worked out to £55 (Plugs ¥7828 + shipping ¥2760), which was cheaper than I had been quoted in the UK for the Denso ones. You guys will obviously have to pay arounf 50% more for 6, although 6 may still fit in the lower shipping weight bracket if your lucky. Not fitted them yet though.

Bloody good times for an NA, were was this?

Zipped Excel file, connector diagrams are avialible from http://www.mkiv.com supra tt pinouts.zip

Probably pretty much identicle then. I have an Excel spreadsheet with the J-spec and US/UK ECU pinouts, very few differences.

I think the US UK are pretty much the same apart from some EGR stuff they have for emmisions (not sure if it's on the UK car), the Jap one is pretty similar as well not that many differences and they tend to be missing pins rather than the same pin with two different functions.

Pretty sure they are the same as the US Pinout, there's a diagram with full listing of pins on http://www.mkiv.com

Standard Integra Type R Platinums (NGK PFR7G-11) are 7s. Currently looking to get 8s Porbably DENSO Iridium (24 on their range scale) or HKS (40 on theirs I think)

Don't gap Iridium plugs, they come pre gapped if you do gap them the tips will either break or if you're really unlucky they will wait until they are in the engine until they do.

Where did you get the guage from?

Yes the Power FC is excellent, I have one with the Commander on my Type R. Like Chris said some guys in NZ have a program that allows you to prgoram it like a dealer but only available for the RX& and Skyline at the mo (I'm still waiting for the Type R version). I have been told RC Engineering can program these as well but I don't know what they use but they reprogrammed one on a Civic Type R of a mate of mines (he didn't have the FC Commander), and they seem to have a picture of the FC-Edit (the one the NZ guys are programming) program on their mag adverts. May be worth asking if they can re-program the Supra version. Or sort out the pinout chart I posted up about and you can get an AEM one running on a j-spec.

Looking around and noticed http://www.mkiv.co.nz/ have the pinouts for the Jap spec TT in the specs section, it only has codes for the pin functions but there is also an Export spec pinout sheet there with the pins/codes/and descriptions of functions. Thought it might be useful to someone trying to get something like a MOTEC or AEM ECU running on a Jap spec TT. Not sure if it's already been spotted or not. With a little bit of work it would be easy to create a table that showed exactly what pins differed (at a quick glance a hell of a lot of them are common on both ECUs). Some differences are obvious like pin B28 (Air Flow Meter) is on the Export chart but unused on the Jap chart.

Thanks for the warning Mark. I have a B&M short shift kit in the Integra, and even though the shift action is fine (and definately shorter in the Type R), I've put the standard shift lever in the boot in case the B&M decides to snap on my round Angelsey Circuit this Friday.

The N/A Has a much higher final drive ratio which will shorten all the gears, but I think thats in the rear diff. ??

Looks like that ECU is available for every MkIV Supra variant out there, including NAs. http://www.tomsracing.co.jp/pd/tecs/pd-tecs-hyo.jpg Link

I thought CF shafts were more to do with safety then strength, they do less damage as the disintergrate rather than smashing the crap out of you car when they snap?

Better fill me tank up at Angelsey

Is that both J-spec and UK models, I've always thought that the J-spec looks a lot higher at the front than the UK model on standard springs (could be just my imagination though)

Yes but at what rpm range does it need the extra fuel at? Datalogging is the answer.

Seriously, I'm wondering how useful 6 guages are going to be, unless you have full data logging it's going to be hard to keep tabs on what is going on! I actaully think you'd be better off with a more simplified set up for driving about (e.g. one guage/warning light that shows the highest value) and a full datalogging device for diagnosis, that way you can keep your eyes on the road the single guage and let off when the warning light comes on. You could then use the datalogs to diagnose the cylinder and conditions it happened under at your leisure(rpm/load/timing/injector pulse width), would probably want the 6 O2 sensors logging as well, and the knock sensor. Of cause it won't be cheap but alot more useful than a bunch of numbers (it was hard enough to read on SPA boost/temp gauge whencaning it when I had mine nevermind 6 and the O2, and boost etc..) and flashing lights. Rich

As it's affecting both the ABS and the RLTC I would suspect its a problem at the ABS Sensor end (or wiring to it), if it was just the ECU you would expect the RLTC to still work as it is taking the sgnal from the sensors not from the ECU. It could also be the connector on the ECU depending on how the ECU sensors are wired up. Like it has been said check the ABS signals with the diagnostic light on the RLTC, if it's just one sensor thats out I would suspect it's downstream from the ECU if it's all of them it's more likely to be the ECU.

What you need is a small box that you can wire all the sensors into, the box could then take the highest signal (through use of electro-trickery) and send it to the standard EGT guage, add a row of leds to tell you which one has the highest temp and BINGO! Could also have a dial (7 position in the Supra's case) to pick the sensor you want rather than giving the highest (beats (in cost terms) having six EGT guages sitting on the dash ) Of cause you have to get someone to make the box for you.

Blue spaghetti A more subtle options http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid30/pd0c4c5310745060a383f9c7a4f59e10b/fd4ff0bf.jpg or no 'welding' version http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid30/p6b206b805f16034df72d5f9fa0ecc73d/fd4ff00f.jpg

Martin F had a bleeder T turned into an H that I was using on my Supra TT, not sure if he's got round to putting in on or if he had a good as a increasde as I did.

Did you watch the vids, for less than 1K it's pretty impressive, it basically moves the "stick" up through the original gate pattern when moved in one direction, and moves it backwards through the pattern when moved the other way. (must be some lockout for reverse and neutral) No, it doesn't give you a sequential box, but it gives you a sequential gear change, which for most is as much as they want/need. Yes I have seen inside a sequential box and yes I know they are designed very differently. Edit: or were you talking about the 200 quid jobby, which yes is poo.