Rich J

People on Honda-tech seem to be getting interested in the AEM Wideband unit, as it uses the Bosch sensor which is easier to find and costs $50 instead of $250 for the other one (NKT??). http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=537271 "It can output either 0-1 volts(to work with stock ECUs) or 0-5 volts for engine management setups(Hondata, EMS, etc..) Currently, the only way to display A/F is in your EMS, Hondata, etc... AEM says that they will have a gauge on the market within a couple of months to be used in conjunction with the AEM WBO2 setup. You can also get an Autometer or some other gauge recalibrated for the AEM WBO2 to use in the meanwhile or permanently... Bosch sensors are easy to find and are CHEAP, whereas the NKT sensors are getting ridiculously hard to find and prices are nuts If you are running the AEM EMS, it will require no calibration for the EMS to read it perfectly, on other systems you would go through the same process as with the FJO, TechEdge, etc.. in order to calibrate the system to accurately read the output voltages." The AEM unit still hasn't got a stand alone monitor screen yet, but one of the Wideband (possibly techedge) projects is working on one http://www.ks-motorsports.com/index.php?page=shop/browse&category_id=512a9a8aeef4df049aedf7172be0eacb&ps_session=5c8d59fa8d5b77d2133e9b32f7f93651

Thx, thought it may have been Mark's last time I saw it int the metal it was black, Pete said it had been resprayed.

No mine is still at PPS Automotive (also PPS Bodytech which is why I was asking), all the parts have arrived after lots of problems with Honda UK, so it is getting put back together now. Currently driving a clapped out 206 GTi Haven't popped onto the forum for a while which is why it's taken me so long to get back.

Who's is the PPS Bodytech one???

No this is definately not the case, in fact in most cars shifting should be done beyond peak POWER, the reason being that the longer you are in a lower gear the better, because of torque multiplication through gearing, even though at the higher revs you may have less torque at the flywheel, because you are in a lower gear the torque at the wheels will be more than if you shift up and are at high flywheel torque and the gear will give less torque multiplication. There is a point where you have to change because the drop in torque at the flywheel (beyond peak TORQUE) means you are better off going up a gear but in most cars that is beyond peak POWER not at peak TORQUE. This is part of the reason that cars like the Integra Type R are faster than they seem they should be with the small amount of torque they have, the lack in torque is compensated by the gearing, because there are a lot of revs the gearing is shorter that other cars in it's class (that have similar peak power but higher torque, i.e. lower revving turbo motors of around 200hp), making more torque at the wheels through torque multiplication.

Forget about the previous descriptions, here's the links you are really looking for:- Power versus Torque - Part 1 http://www.autospeed.com/A_0744/cms/article.html Power versus Torque - Part 2 http://www.autospeed.com/A_0755/cms/article.html Also explains how gearing comes into the whole thing, with nice tables and graphs.

Valid point, I wouldn't trust the standard rev counter on any car, mine often reads 400-500rpm over at 9000rpm, when the rev limiter is raised I expect it to see 10K (but only be doing 9500)

No but I will be using the Honda version they have released to tune my Integra (non-turbo, but there is a guy on the PowerFC list that is tuning his turboed Integra with one)

Yes http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/ Supra one not sorted out yet but it's pretty generic in most respects from what I have heard, the software has to be changed for car specific stuff, two spark maps on RX7, VTEC engagement on Honda etc...

Don't know if this will help but ask me week after next as I am setting up my Integra's PowerFC for the new cams and pistons. (of on hols for a week today, I'll get back after)

Car should actually be ready by then Branners Paul Matt (cos he's always up for it!) Snowman Ashley (throw a sickie) B3any Dave Peter Gareth B3any Steve Peter niloc Earthrokka Dude G Willson Roy Supra Al.(hopefully) Paul_Y3k Lust2luv Gandolf leeone1 Robbie Cashpoint SupraPito Skywater Dil Hardhead42 (rich)

What size exhaust are you thinking of getting? I'm running a 2.5" on an 1.8 works well. Design of the exhaust manifold is probably more important than any backpressure the exhaust system is producing.

Denso make the HKS Iridium plugs I have a box here somewhere from my HKS set (S40i, which are same heat range as IK24) nice small print where it says they are manufactured by Denso. I haven't looked at them close up together but I doubt there's any difference (apart from the HSK brand and extra £££), May get a chance to later in the week when I go to see the progress on the engine build.

Nah, not because of the power it was the combo of RWD and my big booted right foot that put me off. After trashing one I couldn't be sure I would learn by my mistakes. The Teg suits my all out driving style much better. The Teg will be nowhere near the Supra TT power 210 whp tops, although that will make quite a quick car (accel. not top speed mind) as it's only 1100kg. After it's all set up I have been lookign into changing the gear ratios to make best effect of the 9500rpm rev limiter.

Definately what I have seen, the pistons I am putting into the Integra (Civic Type R pistons which should produce a CR of around 12.5:1) are sold as +.25mm oversized, they are infact +.22mm oversized which make them just right to fit in the +.25mm bore. That said I have managed to get the piston cylinder clearance for the Type R engine which is 0.01-0.04mm so the pistons are nicely in spec.

I don't think it is designed to do that. Alternatively you could get the box from RaceLogic that makes the TC control the spark instead of the fuel (for cars without MPFI), that way you would not ignite the mixture but it would dump loads of fuel and NOS out the back, which I'm sure would get ignited by something.:flame Dev

or alternatively: - no injector pulses/tow home.

How has the RLTC been wired up? Did you use the supplied connectors? I did on mine on the Teg and the whole system can be disconnected and the standard wiring connected back to itself in a matter of minutes. If yours has been set up this way it may be worth getting it on the RR again and disconnecting completely to get the RLTC completely out of the equation.

Yeah I agree, all you can say in the end is that is cooler, and (I think everyone agrees) cooler is better. Whether it's making any real difference, who knows? But it can't hurt especially if you are tring to exceed the specifications of what the engine is designed to come out of the factory with.

A little non-scientific research done by a fellow Integra owner using an Underbonnet filter: "The intake air temperature used to read 34 degrees under normal use. Rising to 38 degrees when stationary. " then a CAI (Cold Air induction) kit: "...stationary is still about 38 degrees. But within 300 yrds of moving, it falls to about 24 degrees. Normal running temperature is now approx 20 degrees. " Definate drop in air temp in the air that is reaching the standard temp sensor on the Integra (in the intake manifold I believe), outside temp was about 16deg C. From me, same thread using same equipment to measure temp different intake system, mine system is similar to the standard airbox (filter inside) with a larger "snorkle" where the other guys is one of those long alli tubes with a filter on the end outside the engine bay: "Stationary quickly rises to 38deg and then slowly upto 45deg if left for 10-15 minutes" "Motorway cruising 22deg" "Accelerating 30-70MPH about 19-20deg"

Yes it's interesting reading, don't understand the maths though. The BAD news: The Honda is currently running with low compression on one cylinder and bad oil comsumption, So I am only using it part of the time (basically days Teresa has to use a car) The GOOD news Its going in to get fixed next Tuesday The BAD news It's going to need reboring and oversized pistons used The GOOD News I will be installing oversized Civic Type R (EK9 the older version) pistons which are a direct fit and raise the static compression ratio from 11.1:1 to 12.4:1 The BAD news It's all going to cost The GOOD news I am also having the topend rebuilt including uprated springs, Titanium retainers, adjustable verier pullies, and a nice pair of TODA 'B' cams (12mm lift / 295 duration on VTEC lobe) The BAD news Teresa is going to kill me when the bills arrive.

Lightened flywheels are great, I ignored all the comments and myths that others (who had never had one) banded about and got one anyway and have never looked back. Interesting article http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/flywheel.htm

I know of a couple of Honda owners (Accord Type R and New Civic Type R), who have had systems made up by H&S, very good quaility from what I have heard.

AFAIK = As far as I know

Broke mine after a trackday, different wheels/tyres to on track and diffrent road surface. Trackdays are great but what you learn about your cars limits on them does not alway relate to what the limits are one the road. (BTW the road was dry when I broke mine, and I wasn't going that fast (the usual "been round that corner everyday fo the last 6 months with no problems"))