Graham Rudd

Unfortunately the only way I could get my boost down after removing my cats was to stick the front one back in. The boost was shooting straight to 1.6bar without it... not a situation I could really live with. It becomes a real pain in the arse trying to keep one eye on the boost gauge when nailing it. Hmmm... probably a little dangerous too for that matter Graham

Mine was also set up as 4 cylinders, as were the 300zx group's by the looks of it. Graham

Watch this space! Graham

John, you can use my program to get the settings. Just use receive, then save. Alternatively tracread.exe will do the same job. Graham

I've written a win32 app to change the TC settings in windows. Its much easier to use than having to use a comms package. Its a small project, actually written as a testbed system for a PalmOS version I'm going to implement. If anyone is interested in trying it then mail me and I'll send you a copy. This is intended as a personal project, and as such I obviously wont guarantee that it can't bugger something up. I can say that I've used it without any problems and everything seems fine. It replaces the need to use tracread/tracwrit and procomm. Graham

Thanks for the help everyone. That Sikkaflex sounds fantastic. Unfortunately, knowing me it also sounds like a sure fire way for me to unwittingly attach a permanent airbrake to my car, in the form of a skirt at right angles to the body! Unfortunately I'm a couple of hours away, can you order it directly from 3M, or is it a trade only thing? That'll be great if you can find out where he gets it from Phil. I might as well ask, does anyone know of any good, reasonably priced bodyshops near the Aldershot/Farborough/Camberley area, or close to the M25 that could do the job for me? I'm starting to lose my bottle. The more I look at it without the skirt, the more I'm tempted to leave it off and get the area resprayed instead. Its definately growing on me, I'm just terrified of what it'll cost to get the work done! Thanks Graham

I was tinkering around in the garage today when I finally snapped. The rear bodykit skirts on my Soop are a bloody disgrace! They've started lifting from the main body of the car and look frankly ridiculous now. In a moment of insane madness I grabbed a screwdriver, whipped the screws out and yanked one off. Actually it was more like grapple with the foam tape adhesive that was still on there, and slowly prise one off. My moment of righteous triumph lasted approximately 5 seconds, until I realised what I'd done. I was stood there grinning like a maniac, one skirt held triumphantly in my hand and one god-awful mess left where it had been. Ok, down to my questions at last. I've cleaned up the rear panel that I removed it from, there is a little paintwork damage under there, but I've pretty much managed to remove all of the gunky stuff. Now where on earth do I buy the adhesive to stick it back on? I've tried Halfords, I've tried asking the local bodyshop.... he reckons 90 quid for the fixing kit, I just laughed at him and told him I'd use sellotape before I paid him 90 quid! Does anyone know where I can buy this elusive double backed sticky tape? (ok, so maybe its a bit more specialised than that but come on!) Its a shame the paint work is damaged really, I quite like it without the skirt on. Please, someone help! Many thanks, Graham

It certainly could be the relay, I scientifically wiggled all of the relays a little bit as I couldn't locate the ABS one (the diagram in the fuse box didn't help) and the problem has disappeared. So once again thanks to the people who responded, although I'm not over-confident that my piddling little pathetic fix is going to last long. Thanks Graham

Thanks for that Phil, one more question though. Which one's the ABS relay? Erm.. for that matter which one is the Trac relay?

Over the last couple of weeks my ABS warning light has started to occassionally remain lit after the ignition is switched on. I figured I could just ignore it for a while until I had time to find out what it means and get it sorted out, especially as there didn't actually seem to be anything wrong with the car. Unfortunately there definitely WAS an ill effect today, my RLTC went crazy, cutting my power as soon as I got going. I had to turn the Racelogic system off in order to drive it home. Does anybody have any idea what the likely cause of this might be? I guess from the RLTC end of things its seeing crazy results on the wheel speed sensor connections. I don't think its anything to do with the actual fitment of the RLTC as I've seen it happen a couple of times in the past, before the TC was installed. On those occassions it always disappeared if I switched the ignition off then on again though. If anyone could shed some light on this problem I would be greatly appreciative, all the more so if you can reassure me that I'm not going to be landed with the mother of all repair bills! I've had to shell out too much on repairs already. Thanks Graham

Quick update, I'm sure some of you already know this but for those of you that don't: The diagnostic LED definately can be used as a gear shift indicator even if you haven't got the version which is meant to include it. Hit G on the main menu, don't worry that there isn't an actual option there. Then hit C and you'll be asked to enter the RPM for the shift light. It seems you have to enter five digits here or strange things happen. So if you want 6000RPM hit 06000. Enter 65535 to return it to being a good old diagnostic tool. Have fun, Graham (Edited by Graham Rudd at 12:49 am on Oct. 4, 2001)

Oops, sorry Paul, you're right, it will require that you'll need a cross-over cable. Its just as well, it allows you to add a bit of slack to the RL cable! I use the one I had to build to see what my bloody cablemodem was up to when NTL assured me nothing was wrong... must stay calm, mustn't start thinking about NTL. (my favourite gripe subject) And I believe the palm designers did things properly, its RS232. Honestly.. some manufacturers Cheers Graham

The simple steps I did were: 1) Go to www.tucows.com, search for some terminal emulation software for your palm. 2) After downloading it to your palm, stick your Vx in the cradle, open HyperTerminal in windows and check that the palm can communicate with it ok. 3) Erm.. thats it really, it should all work if it can communicate with HyperTerminal, take cradle and palm to the car. Oh, you may have to close hotsync manager first, to free up the port for hyperterminal to use when you're testing. N.B. I said it will work like a dream, future tense, I haven't taken it out to the car yet to test! I can't see how it won't work unless I've overlooked something stupid (a distinct possibility). Cheers Graham

I don't know about paving the way, I suspect I'm more likely to provide a valuable object lesson to those with more sense. Some of the extra things you get to change are cryptic to say the least. You're presented with rather daunting questions such as, enter time in 1/100 seconds. Quite vague really, especially when thats all you have to work with. Yet despite all of that I feel strangely drawn to play with it *gulp*. I've just had a quick mess around with my Palm V, it'll work like a dream, no more lugging the damned laptop out to the car. Do any of you have the pro version of the TC? It could be useful to fill in a few of the menu blanks. For example, things like the full throttle shift stuff is still in there, they just aren't transmitting the menu options. It seems a little strange that they've gone to the trouble to remove the display of these options, yet still handle their selection. Perhaps they intended to write some frontend software for it at some point but never got around to it? Either that or I've got a duff out of date TC unit, and you're all seeing things that I'm not! Ok, now I'm just rambling, if anyone could shed any light on any of these other options I'd be extremely grateful. I'm sure someone mentioned that they had their LED working as the shifter light.. did I imagine it? Thanks Graham

All of the Racelogic Traction control talk recently has managed to raise my enthusiasm to check out the configuration options again. I'v noticed that there a LOTS of hidden menu options, any of you that have just tried all the alpha-numeric keys on each menu will know what I mean.... or perhaps I'm the only one sad enough to try that Has anybody figured out what some of the extra stuff means? In particular I'd like to be able to use the LED as a gear shift light... I know its gimmicky, but I just can't help myself! Does anybody have any idea how to do this? Are there any other options in this hidden bag of goodies that are worth playing with? Most of it seems to be very cryptic, some of the values which beg to be altered with these hidden menu options look like a great way to kill yourself Thanks Graham