Graham Rudd

An upload will be fine

I'll bet one of you bright sprarks could help me out with a problem I've having. Suppose I want to 'intercept' an injector pulse. I.e. I want to monitor the signal, and reproduce it. (a la Racelogic TC). How would I go about doing this from an electrical point of view? Obviously I have to condition the signal first so that I can actually monitor it with an MCU, but how do I go about sending the original signal on it merry way (but only if I choose to)? Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question or doesn't even make sense. My grasp of electronics is rather feeble. No point beating myself over the head with it when this board seems to contain all the knowledge known to mankind Many thanks, Graham

Actually without thinking of this in the slightest I leave myself open to looking a real tit here, but wont the restriction percentage simply be the cosine of the angle? Thats assuming a disc obstruction, fully open at 90 deg, fully closed at 0 deg. I prepare to look silly now.

Given the shape of the butterfly restriction and angles involved, I could give you a formula to calculate the restriction area as a percentage of the total unrestricted area, but I suspect this would be of bugger all use when it actually comes to a substance flowing through the pipe.

Ha! I'm totally confident that you all knew that, just though I'd get in first to save you all the trouble.

Without wanting to get all geeky, I find it strangely coincidental that 3276 is exactly what 5% would be in a 16 bit fixed point representation (which is what the RL unit uses). Its as if whatever you're using to view the config doesn't realise that the slip value should be represented as a percentage and is showing the raw data instead. Graham

Mine did this when the active spoiler was removed, just had to unplug the connector to the spoiler ECU in my case.

Chances are you had the email correct. I've been in Hawaii for the last couple of weeks and came back to over 700 mails, 95% of which were kind offers to either enlarge my penis or enhance my breasts. In the end I just took a big gulp and deleted all of my mails rather than sort through them. Sorry if I missed anything important. Graham

I don't mind the prog being shared, its pretty much out of control now anyway. I'm just trying to find a little free time because I'm this >. Maybe you should make it available here somewhere Branners? Graham

Do I sense a group buy coming on? Yep, as Matt says I'm also looking at getting my fueling upgraded very shortly. I think I'll go for larger than 550's though, if I'm going to upgrade I figure I might as well future proof and make sure I only have to do it once. I'd like to know what someone like CW's views are on the best upgrade path for fuelling. I pretty much want to get my car ready to accept a big single or the HKS twins. I'm also looking into aftermarket ECU's instead of buying a fuel computer. Terry, have you gone down this route?

Good point, I'm hoping you're right Phil. I have to admit though, there is a *tiny* part of me hoping that they are buggered so I can finally be done with half of that crap under the bonnet and get a nice simple big single. Got to say, I love the Supra but its making it really hard work at the minute! I'll shoot you a copy of the program to test out later in the week too. Just a few more things to sort out. Cheers Graham

I can't seem to get any breaks with my Supra at the minute. I was out today trying to cleaning a few connections and checking my relays in the hope of fixing my ABS problem. After a bit of general mucking around I decided to take it out for a spin to see if the ABS sensor was still playing up. Well, the good news is that the ABS sensor worked, the bad news is that as I was driving along at a fair rate of knots I had a sudden loss of power. I then drove it home and couldn't even get it to make 0.5bar boost. I would swear that when the second is meant to kick in I was getting a strange whining noise too. Just to add insult to injury I was also testing a new version of my RLTC software with the data analysis enabled, the best 0-60 time I could manage was 5.4 seconds *mutter*. So does this sound terminal for one of my turbos? I'm hoping not as this is the second set I've had on the car Any insights as to what might have happened? Thanks Graham

It looks like it might well be a dodgy ABS sensor. Its the near side front wheel sensor that seems to be acting up. I don't suppose anyone would have a part number for it? I guess I should have a look at it to see if their is anything obviously wrong, but my innate incompetence at mechanical tasks is putting me off. I figure I'll just pay someone to stick a new one one Cheers Graham

If you have six EGT probes then why not buy a cheapish data acquisition card for a laptop and hook the probes up to that instead of the gauges, or maybe make a switch to switch them over. Along with an RPM signal that should take care of the data logging.

I'm pretty sure its ambient heat. Never happens on a morning, and I've seen it quite a lot of times now leaving work if I leave the car in direct sunlight during the day. I've tried leaving it in the shade as a test a few times and haven't seen the warning light come on. The incident with the ABS cutting out on me whilst actually driving is the only time its ever happened mid-journey. But I will have been piling an AWFUL lot of heat into the vicinity of the wheels. Its been happening for a long time, but the mid-journey one has prompted me to try to get it sorted! I just don't fancy paying for a garage to find an electrical problem though, god knows how long it could drag out for and I don't want to remortgage the house just to have ABS Cheers Graham

I've checked the connections behind the dash Phil, all *seem* to be fine. Another development though, also had the brake warning light come on now. Definately seems to be an electrical problem somewhere, and it definately seems to be heat related. Matt, checking the sensors... sounds a bit mechanical to me, I don't do mechanical! I will make a point of carrying my laptop to work with me now though on the offchance that the ABS light is on for the journey home so I can grab a look at the wheel speed trace. [OT] I know its been a long time coming Phil, but I'll have a new version of the TC software for you to have a play with very shortly. (my workload has eased up a little so I've had a chance to play)

After a spirited blast trying to race a bike from a set of lights (I lost) I had to brake HARD to make my turn off. Imagine my suprise when I manged to lock the wheels up, no sign of the ABS kicking in. After getting down to a sensible speed I noticed, not suprisingly, the ABS warning light was on. The next shock came when I tried to accelerate and the engine just died on me. Luckily I realised immediately what was going on and turned off the RLTC which was obviously getting garbage signals from the ABS sensors. I've noticed though that the ABS warning light now always seems to be on whenever the weather is hot! I can live without the ABS unit, but not the RLTC. Has anyone got any idea what could be causing it to only fail when the sun is shining!? Thanks Graham

Ian, Brilliant, Fantastic, Great, Thanks etc. etc. for your documentation of the whole procedure, thanks to you I reckon even I would have a great shot at doing that upgrade. Now to order the injectors and resistor pack! Thanks again, Graham

Thanks guys, first thing to do is find out if I actually have standard J-spec injector. I strongly suspect I do but I don't know for sure. Is there a simple way to find out? Something a rank amateur can do? Ian, if you get around to reading this I'd really appreciate any info you have on where you got your injectors, resistor pack and anything else you needed. In the meantime I'll see if I can find any info on the Greddy E-Manage system. Cheers Graham

I've had my Soop in its current state for probably close on a year now and although I thought the power was adequate I just can't help feeling my fingers twitching towards my wallet once again for a little more! This is perhaps being fuelled by all the talk on this board by people aiming for big power supras! I don't want to spend 10's of k more on the car so I'm going for something a little more achievable. So I was wondering what I would need for a realistic and reliable 450bhp, I'm hoping I've already got a firm basis. Here is the current spec: J-Spec 6spd Hybrid turbos, Blitz ECU, HKS EVC4 Boost Controller, HKS 'R' Spec FMIC, HKS Cams 256 In, 264 Ex, ERL Water Injection, TDI Uprated fuel pump, HKS Induction Kit, Chris Wilson front cat replacement, HKS rear cat replacement pipe, Super Drager 'Priest' exhaust, HKS BOV, Uprated clutch, Racelogic Adjustable traction control + launch, Tein Adjustable coilover suspension, Cusco Strut Braces front and rear, Steel braided brake lines, Chris Wilson Carbon/Kevlar brake pads, Greddy boost gauge My personal feeling is to firstly get something to sort out the fuel so I can maybe run higher boost. I'm sure that the blitz ecu does *something* about providing extra fuel, but I have no idea how much it can cope with. Besides, there isn't a lot it could do with j-spec injectors in any case. So what am I looking at? Bigger injectors and Mappable ECU or Fuel computer? Extra injector and controller? If need be I would be willing to upgrade to a big single, although I feel this may be overkill for the kind of power I'm looking for, I also don't really want any extra lag, it already feels laggy enough. I'm not really interested in the HKS twins either, I feel they're a little too expensive for what they are, and again probably over the top for what I'm looking for. Any advice/discussion would be fantastic, I'd prefer to do it the 'best' way, whatever that might be. Maybe I'm totally barking up the wrong tree looking for more power by upping the boost? Don't be bothered about flaming down whats already on the car as pointless, counter productive, etc. I'm in no way precious or protective over any of it, and would rather know if its not helping. I just want to make it a little faster now, its amazing how you can get used to silly power Many thanks, Graham

Thanks Alex, those pictures have at least pointed me in the right direction to start looking for possible problems with hoses etc. Terry, it is booked into TDi, doesn't get looked at until October though. Was just checking if there was maybe something I could diagnose myself in the meantime. Cheers Graham

Whereabouts is the VSV? Is it something I could get at?

After my overboosting problems last week which turned out to be a ripped hose, that I've since had to repair twice. (There HAS to be some reason that hose keeps ripping in half!). I still don't think my car is behaving properly. It still suffers from not spinning up the second turbo if I drop a gear into the rev range where it should come on-line. (e.g. dropping a gear from 5th where rpm is less than 4k, down to 4th where it is greater than 4k) To get the turbo to kick in I have to lift off until the rpms drop below 4k, then floor it. The second turbo also seems a little hesitant. It seems to stutter a little, trying to decide whether to actually kick in properly or not. It usually gets over it and comes on strong, but sometimes it just doesn't bother. Is there anything I can check myself for obvious faults? Also has anyone got a spare J-Spec manual ECU for sale (or temporary loan)? I would like to make sure the blitz ECU isn't just rubbish. Many thanks, Graham

Mike, I have the HKS Priest system and HKS 3" second cat replacement pipe. I have a CW 1st cat replacement pipe but couldn't leave it on the car. I would boost up to 1.8bar or so with it fitted! I also have the Blitz Access ECU, it does removes fuel cut. I would say that you probably can't fit the CW pipe without a restrictor. Cheers Graham

It was one of the lines plumbed into the boost controller, must have been causing no end of confusion for the poor thing