roscodav

Holy Crap, I missed this thread somehow.. Thats MY CAR! Just as well I didnt see it while you had it Dude or I would have had a heart attack The cars all done now and better than ever... and the dashboard doesnt rattle!... it did before it went in. And the died carpet (black) looks the bollox. Thanks Dude good job! Now its just a case of argueing with the warranty company that you cant do it in 4 hours!

Dude just had my carpet dyed as it was in a bit of a state before. Looks great... Nice black carpet now instead of the dirty grey I had before.. Would recomend it, makes it look a lot newer!

Dude, I think you should remember this for when you want to do some quick advertising. I have never seen the viewed counter shoot up so quickly... and I am the one that gets told off for your idea!.. ill expect a discount for that

don't blame me, it was his idea! :flame Dev

I have just been speaking to Dude and would like me to inform you all that his computer has crashed As such if you need to get hold of him, call him as he cant check messages or PMs at the moment. Thanks all

Thanks to Dude I have found it, for those who dont know. As you look at the engine block at the front there is the top hose from the radiator that goes into the engine. (Has a metal end). In the the metal end nestled between the pipe and the engine block are two sensors pointing forward. The water temp sensor is the one with only 1 wire (top one i think).

Many thanks for the help. I am not really lookign for a long term fix or infact an accurate reading. The gauge I have got is one of the basic ones from Halfords which i think will work with the standard sensor. The car is booked in with Dude next week but as I blew a hose and dumpped most of the water from the system I want to keep an eye on the temp very closely until then.

Hi guys, Due to a broken standard water temp gauge i am fitting a seperate one in a pod. Can anyone tell me the location of the temperature senor that I need to connect it too. I have tried searching but have not found anything... Thanks in advance

I manage without but then again that said I have escaped having a puncture.. I carry around the crazy glue style puncture repaire that wills the wheel with gunk but should get you to a gargage (assuming its not ablow out). Also advisable to have RAC cover just in case. As far as I am aware you dont have to have a spare but if you do have one in the car the MOT will require it to be in a legal condition. no spare, no problem. I think... (waits to be corrected)

Just been given permission by the missus so looks like I can steel CJs space.

Ahh another pacific owner.. I also found WM very good, Wayne especially.

Panic over... thanks for that, i didnt know about those fuses but it wasnt that anyway... There is a white box on top of the stereo that the connector had fallen out of.. once we found that and plugged it back in all was cool. thanks for the speedy responce

I have a engineer working on my car at the moment installing a bluetooth car kit. He has had the main panel out to hook it into the stereo but now he is done NONE of the heater until works... no lights, no air, no nothing. I have checked with him and the two orange connectors are plugged in to the back fine. check the fuses under the bonnet but they are all fine... any ideas.. he is now trying the... "well i didnt check it was working before i started it was like that before" help please

That is exactly what I did, although setting the needles in the right place doing 80 is a bit of a tough job... good luck.. I did it at 40 and that was hard enough. It is also bloody tricky to get the revs to the right area as you are not really sure what it should be.. I splayed around with mine until the second turbo kicked in when it was reading about 3900 which was about where it was before. tick over settles at about 600 when warm.. the things we do eh?

After a little diagnosis. When the the engine is off there is about 11.4V to the circuit and when the engine is running about 14.3V. Is this normal or would this be the cause of the problems?

not recently but i will tomorrow when i have some natural light. I would have thought it was ok though none of the standard stuff is blowing, and it is all spliced into other circuits. Brake lights on normal LED line Dash lights, linked to light circuit that used to be for the clock until it was removed. I also have the light for the turbo guage on this line... would too much drain cause this?

Recently I wired in a LED strip light to make the dials glow properly. But they keep seaming to blow. Either the LEDs or the resistors. They certainly do not go straight away, these were in for about a week, I have come back from holiday and one half has gone pop. The same thing happened when I replaced the LED brake light with a non Toyota customer strip. after a few days the LEDs(or resistors) started going. All the units that I use all say they are 12v, suitable for the car and most come with a fag lighter connection that I cut off and wire in. I check each one and none of them have anything more that a fuse in-line so there is not step down stuff in the connector I cut off... WHY do they keep going?

I have a wee bit of a slippage problem, when using kickdown from about 2-3k and it shoots into the high rpms, often i get what i imaging as the clutch slippping (of equiv). I have done all the fluid changes etc but still got the problem. would be very interested if it would sort that.

possibly connections of the back? I had a number of extra wires into mine which i guess were for the import conversion. They were very easy to knock off.

The dials already are designed with the blue filter on them but to make them look good, glow the the VW car dials and to make sure that the light was even. I too two LED strips and put them behind the faces.. V pleased with the result.

The dials that I got from MJ, I think were a little worse re the light. A few of the numbers glowed and the others were so dark you could hardly see them. That was after taking the green covers of the bulbs too. There are some "Mood Lights" that yo ucan get from places like Motorworld, tacky things to light up the center console etc. I took the LED strip of of the middle of two of them and slid them behind the dial faces (plenty of room) wired them in to come on with the lights and now I have the sort or irredesent glow that the new VWs have. Very east, took me an extra 5 MINS

last one, oh dear now thats bad photography from an ex professional

3rd pic

2nd pic

Right I have finally got the dials from MJ Designs and fitted them today. Pics attached.. but.... I had a bit on an accident whilst installing... I have broken the Temp needle into the unit (not the plastic bit) I have glued it back together but it no longer works.. two questions.. 1> Can you replace the internals , ie the temp part... 2> Is there any funky digital guages that I could put in its place (with a little customisation). I am guessing it will need to pretty thin profile to not obscure the other parts. Sorry for the blurry night photography