Andy Ven

Hi guys, does anyone know anywhere that sells replacement bucket shims for the 2jz-gte pre vvti. I have just bought new cams and am 99% sure they will need shimming. Easier for me to ask now so i can get them in asap Thanks Andy

Engine update: So the engine head and block has been cleaned. I cleaned the head using a high pressure cleaning cabinet which uses a cleaning solution and an anti corrosion solution. I could not believe how good it came up. Looking basically like new. The only parts it didnt do so well at was the carbon buildup in the exhaust ports themselves. This didnt phase me so much as i have also ported the exhaust slightly. Just removing the casting marks more than anything. (Pics of the porting to follow) I also cleaned up every valve on a wire wheel and got them back to basically brand new. Result! I didnt clean the springs up as i have purchased some new BC springs but am keeping the oem retainers. I am not revving much over stock so the small weight saving of titanium vs the high cost of nearly £200 determined the outcome of that one. One thing i did notice was that the valve seats on the exhaust looked slightly pitted almost like rust spots. Has anyone witnessed anything similar? Again i dont have close up photos of this. I have lapped all the intake and exhaust valves to give them the best possible chance of sealing. Doing this has removed the small surface marks on the exhaust valve seats which is a bonus. Valve guides and valves seem all within spec which im very happy about considering the milage on the car. Brand new valve stem seals fitted with the new BC uprated valve springs. New nice parts that have just turned up on my doorstep are some GSC S1 7030 cams along with some adjustable cam gears off ebay. £35 for the cam gears. I thought at that price its worth giving them a go.

Yeah i can imagine it will be a handful. I will probably start with 1 bar boost and get used to it before getting too giddy. I have gone for the setup i believe to give me the most linear curve possible without using a supercharger if that makes sense. I want it to be drivable but also go well when pushed to the redline

Swampy, no i have never driven a 700hp rear wheel drive car. I am not one to go for stupid power and then bin it. One of the lads i know is a tuner who does traction control methods on high power fwd cars to stop wheel spin and gain traction in lower gears. I will also be looking at having the boost mappable by what gear it is in to make it more driver friendly. It wont be getting used in the wet and will be having the best tyres i can afford fitted. I will see at the time what the injector size is like for power and keeping the afr at the desired amount. I hear a good few people running these injectors and making good mid 700hp so i will have to wait and see. I havnt bought these denso injectors so they don’t owe me anything. If they do not suffice, i will go to some 1000cc and probably have to go for rear fuel rail setup rather than fuel through. I quite like the sound of the haltech ecu with its self adjustable afr which kind of ‘self maps’ to a degree. You just set your afr you desire at certain rpms and it adjusts the fuel to suit. But im still weighing up all the pros and cons of each one. Yeah ive got an os giken R3C triple plate ready to go on which should be more than enough for the power i want.

Into more detail on the engine for the next part. So i have bought myself an engine stand and started stripping the engine. 25 yeArs of wear with 130k miles and no service history. Whats the worst that could be. Ideally i should have done a compression test before hand to see what all the cylinders were producing. But i was too giddy to get it all stripped down and see inside. I stripped all the inlet manifold, starter motor, and other small parts off and jet washed the whole block off on the engine stand. This took a small amount of the muck off. Then i removed the cam cover and found out how black the inside was with burnt on oil and everything else. I also found the spark plugs to be loose when removing them. This is the parts all stripped down ready for cleaning.

I removed the engine and gearbox a couple of months ago ready for overhauling and cleaning. The previous owner had done a messy job of filling up the power steering fluid, but to my benefit as it had stopped anthing on that part of the engine bay from rusting [emoji1305] The car shell itself has been left alone for now as i wanted to concentrate on getting the engine and gearbox in a good place. Knowing what these things can cost to repair, i thought it best to strip them both to check any wear and replace parts as necessary. The car came with little to no service history so i feared the worst. The gearbox also wouldn’t engage 6th gear so i took a gamble getting it. Having removed the gearbox from the engine, the clutch seems fairly new as it does not look bedded in yet.

So, i finally purchased a car which i have been wanting for many years and only now have been able to afford and to house. I was never keen on the interior so decided that i would buy a car which needs quite a bit of work. By doing this it would mean that i know the car inside out by the time ive finished rebuilding it and it would be exactly what i wanted. I managed to get myself a 1993 red twin turbo factory manual 6 speed v160 which was fairly unmolested. The only parts fitted were an aftermarket intercooler and a fuel cut defender. Practically everything else was stock. The car has done 130k miles so not exactly low milage. The engine The plan is to rebuild the engine with new parts to give it a refresh and make it like new again. Parts which are worn will be upgraded. Im trying to do this on a ‘budget’ but parts that need money spending on them will get the money they need. Power wise i want this car to be a great street car with possibly the odd track day. Not the usual 1/4 mile car. Responsiveness is key to my build so i will be keeping the stock intake manifold and using a relatively small turbo. Target peak power is 700hp at flywheel. I have a twinscroll borg warner s362 sxe turbo with a mild steel tubular manifold. 800cc denso injectors which mount in the stock fuel rail. I have also bought a r3c triple plate clutch. This might seem as overkill for such a small turbo but i would rather be safe than sorry, especially with the hammer it will get on trackdays. I will be getting a standalone ecu but havnt fully decided on which one yet. The chassis: The plan with the chassis is to get it fully acid dipped and starting again from fresh. This way i know i have a good base to start from and it should be perfect when fully protected. This car will not be used in wet weather either. Just a nice summers day. I really like the factory look as far as rear bumper, and the stock side skirts (hockey stick sides) but think an aftermarket front bumper may be needed. I will update on the more i do and add some pictures of the progress i have done so far. The time scale is a year, possibly a year and a half. Any questions on anything just ask!

I am now in the same boat as you for rebuilding and forgong the bottom end. But i rekon i can do all the lot for under £1200. Just gotta look around for the best prices. I find whifbits slightly pricy compared to some other places. All i will say is look around for the best prices. Money saved is always a bonus!

So you have two options. Both will seal just as well as each other but one will look ascetically right and the other wont. Option 1. Use the same size seal you currently have (viton material should be a brown colour) and seat it 3mm inwards of where it currently sits. Ie, at the moment it will sit flush with the plate it is housed in. Sit it 3mm further back. This will then seal on a fresh part of the crank shaft and will not cause any issues. Option 2. Use a slightly wider seal. Aka seal size is currently 60x90x5. You would get a 60x90x8. So 3mm wider seal. Sit this flush with the housing plate and it will seal fine and look correct from the outside. The seal lip will be further back because it is a wider seal so wont be where the groove is. Option 1 will work with a seal you currently have but will be sat back slightly Option 2 will need a new seal buying (again viton material) but 3mm deeper. This will look correct from the outside sitting flush. Hope this helps. Andy

Only other issue i have heard about is physical torque the stock bottom end can take. You may have to have the fueling done to reduce torque or rods will be bending. As far as setup. I think you have hit most items on your list. If you are after saving money aswell, just get springs and not retainers for your valve springs. An extra £200 on titanium spring caps for no real gain unless you are planning on raising the rev limit alot. If you are after the best spool possible then keep with the stock intake. I have seen back to back dyno runs with stock to aftermarket intakes. Aftermarket will make you hit bigger numbers later on in the rev range and overall higher hp but sacrifice spool by nearly as much as 500rpm in some cases.

Would be interested to see your power graph for your current setup if you please. Going with the 362sxe but just like to see different setups for comparison

Great power curve graph! Looks like it could be a great fast road car

Ok, so i have taken my RMS seal off so you can compare to mine. Engine has 130k miles on it and yes mine has a groove. Should it have a groove. No it shouldnt. But thats because the seal has worn the metal over a long period of time.

Unless you can adjust each cam separately then no you cannot tune it with todays ecu’s. Cam gears are there to set the correct degree offset from tdc for the cams. They come with a specific offset and you need to degree your cams to your engine to get the best performance out of them. When you buy aftermarket cams they tell you how many degrees they want to be (either before tdc or after). Stock cams are made to work best with the stock gears, Or so i am lead to believe.

From my experience, i found it very difficult to sell my last one. People were only after a ‘fully stock’ or near fully stock car as these are the ones that are going up in value as such. Most of the higher end prices are being paid by people just wanting to keep them in a garage and make a good few quid in a number of years. This is just my opinion on what i found when selling mine and had very little serious people. Only one person came through to actually see it and it had been advertised for a good month.

Bought some SC1 cams. No longer needed.

Sold

Sold

Sold

For sale i have a whifbitz anodised blue fan pulley. Has small marks where it was clamped between the front and back plate. Decided on a change of colour so this is up for sale. Was removed from a 2jz-gte. I believe the fan bolt pattern is the same for both n/a and turbo models. £30 including paypal fees but not including postage. Can be posted as buyers expense or picked up from york.

For sale i have a hks turbo timer removed from my 2jz-gte. Great working order. £30 paypal only. buyer pays postage and fees. Can be collected from york

For sale i have an Evc 3 which was removed from my 2jz-gte. Great working condition. I believe i have instructions but i will have to double check. Comes complete ready to fit. £100 paypal only. Buyer pays fees and postage. Can be collected from york.

For sale i have a HKS Fcd that has been removed from my 2jz gte supra. Great working condition, but does not come with instructions. £50 PayPal only. Buyer pays fees and postage. Collection can be from york

I don’t unfortunately. Do you have the size drawings from bilstein?