Andy Ven

Can you not just measure the size of them once removed or are you wanting them in and out in the same day? Just normally there is a huge markup on bearings because of not knowing the size (unless they are a special shape) Sorry its Not really useful info, just trying to save you some ££

Hey mike, The engine has always been stock. I dont even think it has ever been fully BPU. I have checked all the rod bolts and all of them are within spec. Says replace them if shaft is under 8mm. And most measure 8.15-8.20 so cant see any issues with them. I guess most people just chuck the stock rods without measuring like you say. Im not after crazy power so i was hoping to keep stock parts to keep the cost down. Fingers crossed someone else has measured one to confirm from a lower milage engine. Can you still get brand new oem rods?

Cheers man, I am very anal to say the least, and being an engineer makes you want to know. It also helps me to understand how and why things are made to certain sizes. As far as im aware, the conrod should be perfectly round. But i am not an engine builder, nor have the contacts to see a brand new one to measure it. Maximum that Toyota made them to out the factory was 55.042mm as described in the manual (rod size 3) Its less than this in horizontal axis measurement, but over 0.025mm bigger in the vertical axis measurement. Which is worrying but im not sure if this is anything to worry about. I wont throw money at parts if the originals are perfectly fine. Im a yorkshire man so we have deep pockets and short arms

Sorry its been a while since the last post. It has been a busy time with work and trying to sort out my bearing sizes on the crank and conrods. So, i stripped most of my engine parts off that i wanted vapour blasting and took them to the local blasting shop. I was quoted £300 to clean a handful of parts which i was shocked about. Safe to say instead i have now bought a blasting cabinet and a sack full of walnut blasting media. This means i can clean up anything from now on which will be great for the build. The valve covers have gone away for power coating satin black. I have also drilled and tapped the pcv breather holes to suit AN10 fittings (one was drilled and tapped m16x1 (hole measured 13.5mm before) and the other measured up at 18mm, which was tapped m20x1.5. Ive been pulling my hair out with bearing sizes. So much so, ive ordered plastigauge, a DTI bore gauge and some 0-25mm 0.001 digital micrometers. Ive come to the final hurdle which is finding that the rods seem to have stretched where the bearings fit. Vertical is around 0.03mm bigger (over 1 thou) that the horizontal measurement. I need more information before perusing wether to buy new rods or live with the rods i have. When i have more information, i will have more updates and photos of parts that have come back, and the engine assembly will begin!

Evening ladies and gents, I am currently rebuilding my 2jz gte engine, not because it has failed, but because i am planning on going for just over double stock power (700hp aim) running a borg warner sxe 362. The engine has 130k miles. Anyway back to the point. I have measured the internal diameters of my stock rods. Across the horizontal point, it is measuring up at 55.032-55.038 which is within spec. Upper limit of size 3 rods is 55.042. However, vertically, it is coming up at 55.060 and some at 55.068. These are measured using a DTI bore gauge and cross ref with micrometers. My question is, has anyone ever measured their stock rods? If so have they ever seen measurements/stretch like this? Many thanks in advance Andy

I would say nearer 15k imo. I sold a twin turbo auto a couple of months ago. Needed a bit of tidying up. But on the whole was a great car. Less milage than that and sold for just over 13k. So asking way too much. The prices are only rocketing up for low milage unmolested examples which are basically fully stock.

So as an update, i have been in touch with ACL. I gave them my specified sizes off using the numbers stamped on the rods and on the crank. They recommended the 0.025 shells to give me the correct clearance, not the standard ones. I have also decided to replace the main shells and have given them the specs of my crank and main sizes. Just awaiting an email back from them on that one. My main shells were quite worn. Especially the one at the damper end of the crank (shell 1). I have purchased Acl’s plastigauge set so will be testing the clearances to see how accurate my measurements were. (Considering how far out some of my measurements seemed to be).

Hey mike, i got my dad who has been a machinist for over 30 years to double check my measurements, and they came back exactly the same. I dont have a plastigauge set so cant do that test. The only thing i have done is look closely in the manual at what sizes pieces should be (according to what they are stamped). My crank is stamped 111010. 0 is 51.994-52.000 1 is 51.988-51.994 All measurements i took using a set of freshly calibrated and good make (moore and wright) micrometers. Mine came back at 51.998 across all. So i am unsure of how my measurements have got bigger compared with when it was made. Micrometers are calibrated at 50mm exactly (using a 50-75mm set). All the con-rods are marked 3. 3 is 55.037-55.043 My measurments range from 55.04-55.07 Even with the shells as they are. The oil gap is too much. from the numbers and letters on them. I am still non the wiser on how to identify them. The manual does say.. maximum standard oil gap is 0.07 so this is allowed? I was going to get acl rod bearings but im not sure they do them in the sizes like oem toyota do?

Millar, I purchased a brand new set off ebay for like 60 odd quid. They looked pretty good to me! Not oem toyota but look exactly the same. The only part they dont come with is the bulb holder. Item number is 121533149146 Have a look see what you think

Taylor, it looks to me like a mechanical issue. Upon full extension, the very last section is being forced out to its stop. The only thing i can think is the last section is too tight in its sleeve and is locking when it his its stop. I guess you have tried wd40 the sections by the pic of the can in the car.

So... heres the pics. The crank numbers im happy with are self explainatory.. but the conrod and shells... not so.

Ahh wasnt sure if they were different. I have a set of rubber washers for ontop too.

My current shells also have a 5 digit code on them. Its a mixture of numbers and letters. But that doesn’t correspond with what that drawing says. As it says 1 number :/

Haha, its usually referred to as old english [emoji23] i use a mixture of both as i have use of an imperial milling machine, and sometimes thou is easier. Specially when doing valve shim clearances. Smaller numbers [emoji23] i will have another detailed look tomorrow. Acl only seem to sell shells in standard. 1 thou bigger or 10 thou bigger. 0.025mm or 0.25mm for you new english they dont seem to have as many size versions as toyota do

Evening guys, Now i know i have read a very informative post about this before but i cant for the life of me find it. It says about sizes and markings on the crank and rods. I have however measured wverything on my engine. Every rod diameter on the crank is 51.98mm Big end rod size ranges from 55.05 to 55.07 They are all however marked up with ‘37’ ground into the rods. The bearing which are cureently in measure 1.5mm thickness exactly. Which would give me around 0.07-0.09 clearence. Basically 3-4thou. This is a stock engine and shells have not spun. Anyone help with new bearing sizes? And explain the 4 thou clearance currently? Ps current bearings show zero signs of wear. Cheers in advance

Sorry they are for a twin turbo pre vvti

I have a brand new set of cam cover gaskets which are for sale if your interested?

With stock cams yes. 0.1mm = 4 thou. Stock exhaust is 10-14 thou Stock intake 6-10 thou However with these gsc s1 cams. It states that the tolerance is much closer and different to the stock cams. Exhaust is 12 thou +- 1 thou Intake is 10 thou +- 1 thou So to get it bang on, 1 thou increments would be best. I will sort it either way by surface grinding the shims or shimming slightly on the slack side. Im thinking the freshly ground valves will move and bed in within the first 1000 miles so will be double checking them after that anyway

Im in york. Are you close for collection? Probably looking at £60 plus post. Ill send you some pics tomorrow. They could do with a refurb. They have been painted silver but its not a great job. Cheers Andy

Hi, i also have a pair which are available which are removed from the car. I will send you some pics tomorrow if you are interested

Cheers swampy. I thought they might so more specific sizes than that. After measuring the shims that are in with digital micrometers, some are coming back at such odd sizes compared to their size chart. I have some measuring up at 2.875mm and such like. They seem like in between sizes (1 thou increments) rather than 2 thou which they sell online.

So, today Head work: I test fitted the new gsc s1 cams to the head to check all the valve clearances. Most were within spec with only 2 being out of tolerance by 1 thou. I will get these shims ordered but am yet to fully find somewhere to purchase them from. Bottom end: I have been in two minds on how to progress with the bottom end. Half of me would expect an engine with little to no service history and 130k miles to be well.. much past its best. So the initial plan was to replace all bearings, main, crank, and install new rods and pistons. However, after doing alot of measuring and comparing against what sizes are when they are built. The engine itself seems to have barley worn which has absolutely amazed me. Each bore has worn 1 thou which is amazing. Each piston is still the same size as they came out the factory having not even worn the machining marks off. The ring end gaps are still within factory spec of initial size from fitting. Possibly worn 2-3 thou from day one. All of the main big end bearings had very minimal wear but i will replace these as i have removed the conrods off the crank and replacement bearings are only around £80. Because i am keeping the oem pistons, rings and rods. I have cleaned them up to remove the carbon and old oil. You can see how much baked on oil there was on the oil seal rings. The block has been cleaned up already so they can be re-fitted when the new big end shells arrive.

Guys, Im after two shims. Sizes - 2.725mm and 2.795mm (or 2.8mm) unsure of how toyota sell them size wise but this is what i have measured i will need. Thanks in advance

I can imagine them being pricy too. I have thought about the shimless buckets. Do you just buy them in certain sizes? And whats an EPC? [emoji23]

Cheers swampy, will get calcs done and post up what size shims i need and see if anyone has any. Failing that it will be toyota. Any idea how much they are each from toyota? Cheers Andy