Andy Ven

Sorry to post in here so late, im a fairly new supra owner from yorkshire (york itself) 93 rz tt6 in red (currently in red) Undergoing major overhaul and full engine rebuild. I never knew there were so many about in yorkshire. I saw a beauty red one at specialist cars malton brekky meet with a cage in. Basically my ideal car. Hopefully look forward to meeting you all when my build is done. Only drove it 40 miles before stripping it. Bought my car from sheffield.

Cheers matt, will keep everyone up to date on the progress. Progress Will slow down when the engine is complete as i need to finish building my house so i can move in [emoji28]

Just for closure on this thread for any future people wondering the same question. Bolts do need to be torqued up to manufacturers specs in order for the parts to measure correctly. Same with the main crank bearing sizes. The crank caps need to be torqued to spec. As an engineer i could not understand the difference it would make. A clean mating surface should be the same no matter what. And the whole reason behind torquing the bolt is for taking it to its strongest clamping point before it gets to its yield point. So it doesn’t stretch in use. Somehow it does change the size. I can only assume the rod bolts deform the conrod into its correct shape. For any future people. Please follow this rule and do not fall foul like i have done. Measuring accurately has been a great tool in order for me to understand this and not just ‘because xyz says so’ Thanks Andy

So, ive been back in the garage doing some late evenings. Full bottom sump has been cleaned up and assembled. Very happy with the results. Just the bottom timing gear to fit to the crank and time the engine up. I also stripped the oil pump to give it a check over and everything seemed spot on. Also meant i could walnut blast the outer face of it to make it look like new again. I have just purchased a big industrial hydrovane compressor to help with all the blasting in my new cabinet. 400L tank including another separate tank i purchased. Should mean alot more blasting without the waiting for it to charge up. Perfect for all the suspension and chassis parts!

The problem is where do you stop. Upgrade the crank? New cam retainer bolts? New valves? Thats my problem. Its either do some small bits (rods, near bearings) or go all out and replace everything and look at doing a 1500hp-2000hp build. For the extra that it costs over just an upgrade to 1200hp, it makes sense

What mileage did you have on your pistons? And what boost amount? Seems strange for it to break on the oil seal ring rather than the first two compression rings

I was reluctant to buy uprated rods, i checked all the parts against the manual for deformation and everything seemed bang on. I have heard alot of people run stock headbolts with no isses. My target is not massive HP (6-700) so i have aimed my parts accordingly. I am building to a budget, now i know buying new and upgraded is always safer, but if i did this. The engine build alone would be thousands dearer. It will also hopefully give insight for others who are looking to build on a budget, what can be kept and what needs upgrading. Thanks for the feedback though guys [emoji1305]

Hi, what do you mean by ringlands? Do You mean the groove where the rings sit in?

So, All new parts have arrived the other day from whifbitz. Great service, was there on time and speedy delivery from America. So today was assembly day. Ill let the pictures do the talking this time

I was quoted nearly £11 a clip from toyota [emoji36]

Have you been to see it in person? Its only 20 miles away from me. Would love to see it in person

Hey shane, i cant help you regards price, however if its still mounted to the engine; all i can say is be very careful when removing clips. Every single clip on the coil packs broke when i removed mine due to heat making them extremely brittle. They break way too easy and aint cheap to replace them as supra tax has got to them too.

Evening guys, So its been a busy time at work and frustrating time as well. Firstly I bit the bullet and went with the maxspeedrods... and when they arrived i wish i didnt. Everything looked great till i measured them up. The big end measurements ranged from 55.014mm to 55.039mm across the 6 rods. There was only 1 rod which was anywhere near. Measuring 55.018mm top to bottom and 55.022mm left to right. Even this seemed a bit on the tight side. I asked for a return the same day they arrived.. to which it took nearly 3 weeks of arguing and threatening legal action for them to finally accept a return. They would not pay for postage to return the rods which did not even meet their own tolerances. A local race engine builder had such in depth knowledge about everything i was wanting to know. From the different manufacturers to the size tolerance each part should be. One thing he commented on was that Brian crower rods are now manufactured in china, and explained the full backstory behind why i should not choose them and get manley instead.. even though they are cheaper than BC. He also explained the reason why carillo rods are so expensive, the fact that the quality control is so strict and every rod is made perfect. What it says on the tin is what they are to the exact mm. The acl main crank bearings i ordered from H-Tune never even got dispatched after been ordered 2 weeks prior. So.. not a great start to the build. From here i have New standard size ACL race main and conrod bearings have been ordered from WHIFBITZ New manley conrods have been ordered from Whifbitz. These come with the arp2000 bolts. So parts are due to arrive next week. The cam covers have come back from the powder coaters. I have modified them to have an10 fittings for the oil breathers and also removed the baffle plate and will be bolting this back in with green loctite. Hopefully more pictures to come next time when it starts to go back together.

Welcome. Looks nice and clean [emoji1305]

Email borg warner with the ident number on the turbo. They will tell you when it was manufactured and what turbo it is

I cant wait to see what mine will make, it has the 0.91ar and has a set of gsc1 cams with stock pistons and uprated manley rods. Running 850cc injectors. Hoping for 700 ish at fly

The efr series also used a dual ball bearing rather than a journal bearing like the 369sxe. Much better spool. Thats about as much as i can comment. Whats your hp goals? Fly or wheel hp?

Mine looks like an oem pulley, but the rubber looks perished. So i would rather replace it than risk using an old one which i dont know the age of. Age does matter with them. I would just rather not throw money at parts when a cheaper alternative will work just as well. Specially when i wont be running much over the rev limit and only going for 6-700hp.

What power are you running and redline on your car? Im deciding which route to go down either oem or febest. But still not 100% sure. Tia

New update, After extensive research, i have decided that the stock conrods have stretched too much on the big end, and therefore would need grinding back to circular. They have worn oval by 0.03mm. It doesnt sound alot but as i am planning on running more than stock power, i will upgrade them. I can only assume that its due to having done 130k miles that it has stretched oval. I was stuck between two different rods, brian crower sportline rods. Rated at 175hp+ a rod. Or maxpeeding rods rated at 150hp per rod The BC rods are £630 The maxpeeding are £320 I decided to go for the maxpeeding rods. Ny power goal is 6-700hp so well within the limit of the rod. I could not justify the extra £300 and thought i would give them a try. Because i am stripping the rods and the pistons, i will balance them all to the same weight. I have also purchased acl 0.025 main bearings as these were closer to the size i needed from the measurements i had.

Which part of it failed may i ask? The rubber between the inner and outer?

I would remove the tensioner completely, check it for leaks while you are there and compress it in a vice to re-set it. You can put a 1.5mm allen key through the hole instead of the pin it comes with from new. I would do this over trying to just back it off a few threads. It will give you a false indication on if the bolts are tight that hold the tensioner on as you will be trying to compress the pin whilst tightening the bolts. Personally, i would think its easier to fully remove and take less time. Will give you alot more freedom and movement on the timing belt to get it lined up to a point that you are happy. Then bolt the tensioner back in fully using the 2 x ‘m8 capheads and finally pull the 1.5mm allen key out thats keeping it compressed. Jobs a good en

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