Andy Ven

I dare say as someone has said before. Application is everything. Are you using it for drag events, running it flat out and using as much of the 1000whp that you can or is it just a weekend car, where using the full power potential will be alot less often, and will be small pulls on backroads etc. The list you have composed is a bullet proof list with everything you could possibly get. For someone with a massive budget where money is no issue. Considering all this, a decent map can make a break an engine. It can be the best built engine in the world with all the best parts. With a crap map, it wont make the right power and has the capability of self destructing. Yet a engine with a few small crucial parts can be made as reliable as one with all the bells and whistles with a well composed map.

Style is right. It all depends what you are targeting, and if you are futureproofing. Standard manley h beam rods are built to handle 1200hp @flywheel. This is with the arp 2000 bolts and to have an rpm of no more than 8000. Billet mains - another one you wont need unless going serious power, over 1200whp. Instead using arp bolts with stock mains would suffice. Pistons, i havnt looked into this on my build but every manufacturer gives a rating. Flywheel damper - stock oem damper will work fine unless you are trying to rev up at a phenomenal rate, you will need to look at a different one if this is the case. As far as money. You can do it on a budget, or you can go all out with that list that you have. If you want to chat about it, i will offer all my advise and learnings. Just send me a pm. Im always open to help anyone.

Have you thought about just sending your bottom end away for having it forged? For pistons, rods, and bearings to handle up to 1000whp you will be looking at £13-1400 in parts. Possibly less. Where abouts in the uk are you?

Pmd

I would have though that much. Its got do-luck bonnet, skirts, bumper etc. As good as they are we all know it de-values any supra. Ones which are basically untouched are going for just over 30k. So i personally wouldnt go that high. There are some on the market for 30k or under which are much better specced than this.

They are making a massive buck on this. £42.5k they will end up with. Cant see them buying it for anymore than 28k

Pmd

Hey mate, welcome to the forum and supra ownership. As far as tearing the engine down. I would advise against it. Only because everything has settled down into its current place (rings, bearings etc). If you split it apart you would replace bearings, head gasket etc as a matter of course. Leak down test, compression test and also oil pressure are all great tests to give you some indication of where your engine is at without majorly stripping it. By the sounds of it, its been built to a good standard. The cp pistons and 625 bolts (im guessing on the rods). The rods to me are a concern for running at 1000hp if it has been abused. What turbo and is it 1000whp? Do you have a full build spec on the engine? These are all helpful when trying to understand what power the engine has been built for.

How much for the pink mini?

Will be running 19” wheels. So clearance shouldn’t be such an issue. I was thinking about running nissan gtr r35 brakes. Can pick up a full set of them for around £2000. They are brembo so shouldnt be that bad. I would just make adaptors to fit. Cant be the only one who has thought of doing this. Ive see that pb brakes sell a full kit, rotors, lines etc for around £2500 brand new. Reviews dont seem bad, again has anyone used these?

Hi guys, Not sure if this has been covered before (i have had a search and not found the answer i was after. I am looking at upgrading my brakes to 380mm rotors front and 350mm rotors rear. I have seen a few options available. Has anyone done this upgrade and has any info on it? Cheers Andy

I bought it off a trader on ebay, they are shipped from australia. He may do the supra link so its worth a look.

Hey jellybean is the advert for 5 or 6? Its just a little confusing the pictures showing 6 and the advert title saying 5. Might just be a bit clearer for any potential buyers

You had any luck with this mate? I have some if you still need them. Send me a pm

Morning guys, So progress has been slow. Alot going on and ive been trying to sort my new compressor out. Without that i cant blast my remaining parts. Anyway, so i got round to fitting the an10 fittings to the cam covers. I didnt weld these in because of trying not to heat up and distort the covers themselves. So i drilled and tapped them out and machined some threaded fittings to go in. The new gsc s1 cams have been dti’d in to the bottom end, set to the correct degrees to get maximum performance. This was a fairly easy job, but required some making of new tools. I have ordered a brand new oem toyota damper pulley. Managed to get one for £187 which isnt too bad. Ecu.. has finally arrived from australia!!! I went with the link thunder in the end. I was tempted to get the supra link. The one made for the supra, however i will be building my own loom so it made sense to buy the thunder. The thunder can run a traction control system unlike the supra link because of the amount of teeth on the driveshafts. In total the new ecu, with full 2.5m pre wired connectors set me back £1700 delivered. Which is a big saving of around £500 maybe more on uk prices. I also picked up a walbro 450lph pump off one of the guys off the forum. This should easily flow the amount of fuel i require!

Hi, Are these rear quarter window seals? Thanks

Hey mate, by adjustment is out, do you mean when you press the brake pedal that it doesn’t disengage? If thats your issue then sounds to me like your clutch master cylinder is faulty. Ive got all the parts to go to stock if you are interested. Just shoot me a Pm and im sure we can work somthing out. Cheers Andy

Hi marc, Ive got a full setup for sale as ive just changed my stock setup for an os giken r3c kit. May i ask why your changing from the giken clutch?

Hi marc, I take it you have all the replacement parts already? I guess your just after a list of bolts n stuff?

Pmd

Looks very nice! Nice number plate too!

Are you using a pre-wash? I always used a citrus pre-cleaner to help shift the bulk of the muck. Aswell, if your going to the extent of a 3 stage machine polish, i would have looked at possibly ceramic coating rather than just a wax. Colonite 476 is a great wax but i did find unless its cleaned every week and topped up every month it didnt work as effectivley