Andy Ven

Hey, The arms can be converted without damaging the paintwork if.

Good call on this one, i hadnt really thought about it too much. The lower fronts wont be an issue but the uppers being aluminum could be. I will take a look and see what options are out there

The arm is machined and threaded. The ball joints are fully custom made by myself. I did reach out to them in america but didnt have any luck.

Yeah thats the idea behind it is to make them affordable in future. Specially for us guys in the uk

Hey All, I posted this already in the general section but thought it belongs in here too. I havnt posted on here for a long while as ive up to the eyeballs in work. The time came a few months ago to rebuild my supra that i had stripped to refurbish. One of my biggest bug bears was that i wanted new ball joints in the suspension arms but i didnt want to pay for a new arm especially when i was fully polybushing the car. So after alot of research and development. I finally managed to do it. With not just one arm. But so far 3 of the arms. Upper front Lower front Upper rear All these arms i can now convert to take a replaceable ball joint. Which also means the arm doesnt need to be removed off the car for it to be replaced! There are some vidoes of the balljoints in action on my facebook and instagram page. 'Unrivalled_supras'. 20210411_135258.mp4

Thanks guys. I would like to offer it as a service on here but i would need to consult the moderators about it first

Hey All, Im not sure this is the right section to post this but here goes. I havnt posted on here for a long while as ive up to the eyeballs in work. The time came a few months ago to rebuild my supra that i had stripped to refurbish. One of my biggest bug bears was that i wanted new ball joints in the suspension arms but i didnt want to pay for a new arm especially when i was fully polybushing the car. So after alot of research and development. I finally managed to do it. With not just one arm. But so far 3 of the arms. Upper front Lower front Upper rear All these arms i can now convert to take a replaceable ball joint. Which also means the arm doesnt need to be removed off the car for it to be replaced! There are some vidoes of the balljoints in action on my facebook and instagram page. 'Unrivalled_supras'. 20210411_135258.mp4

Hi Gents, I am currently going through building my wiring loom for my Link Thunder ECU and want to know if anyone with a standalone is still using the stock intake and Sub throttle valve? I plan on keeping it and using it as a traction control system. If anyone is still using it hit me up in the comments. Cheers Andy

Send me a Pm if you still need one

You still need this? Hit me up a PM if you do.

What does it look like? Somthing like this?

Looks like an auto looking on his profile

As the guys above have said, could be power steering fluid or gearbox fluid. If it is gearbox fluid then chances are its the seals. If they are the original seals then they have probably become hard / worn over the last 20 odd years. I have a full set of OEM seals for the v160/161 for sale if you find out it is those leaking.

I would just use your old oem bolts. You can check them with mics to see if they are still within spec. I would put money on them being absolutely fine though. Depends how anal you are at wanting to know how much they have stretched.

Hi Dan, May i ask why you are wanting to get Arp hardware for the rods only? The last thing to go is usually the bolts unless you are trying to get it revving high. Normally what cripples the ross is high torque low-down which causes them to bend, not break the rod bolts. If i were upgrading the rod bots, I would probably just spend the extra few £ and get rods with the Arp bolts. Can get a set of eagle or Manley for just over £500.

Standards. Arp are on the bolt heads

Hi guys, I have a set of denso 800cc 1001-87092 injectors. They are hardly used and have covered maybe 100 miles tops. I decided to go with larger 1000cc injectors with an aftermarket fuel rail instead so these are up for grabs. Asking £130. This does not include postage or paypal fees. Thanks Andy

Gents, Purchased a single seal when refreshing my engine but then decided to buy the full OEM engine seal kit so i ended up with two of these. Looking at £18 including postage but does not cover fees. Will be posted out royal mail signed for first class. Thanks Andy

Cheers for the appreciation lads. Just bought a 20t press to reassemble it. Cant wait to try it out!

For sale i have the 3 oil seals for the getrag v160 gearbox (input shaft seal, output shaft seal, shifter shaft seal). They are all brand new and oem seals. I bought these as a spare set for my gearbox incase i damaged any but didnt use them. Asking £100 including paypal fees and signed for postage. Thanks

Evening all, As we all know; getrag v160 and 161 parts are becoming increasingly rare. So much so that new parts are either impossible to source or incredibly expensive. I thought i would share my one off setup that i have machined. This is due to the lack of availability of 1-2 new revision synchro hubs. The old style used small blocks with springs passing through them. Where as the new style uses a spring which is encased within the block. What i have done is convert my old style hub to the new style, but retaining the old inner synchro hub and synchro sleeve. I also machined the old brass sycnro oilways to replicate the new revision oem style. I also replicated this on 5-6th synchros (oem did not change this) to help with shifting. I took alot of work but was well worth the outcome. The gearbox will be getting rebuilt in the next week but wont be getting tested fully till the car is complete. Bench tests show it is now very similar to the shift feel of the new 3-4 revised hub i just purchased. Let me know what you guys think. All comments welcome

If they are 19’s you wont be able to downsize due to your 380mm front rotors. In order to run 18’s you will need 356mm rotors. Just so you dont buy some wheels and overlook this. Looks a nice piece of kit anyway! What ecu is it running?

The difference would be quicker spool with the smaller ar but it would choke the engine up on the top end. But suited better to road use imo

So my 3 choices would be- 1 -borg warner 8374 efr. Dbb turbo. Only downside is it uses an in built wastegate as is known for boost creep. But is a great street turbo. Cost £2000 (slightly above your budget) 2 - borg warner s364/s366. Good turbos, cheap and use an external wastegate. £900 there or there abouts. Not dbb so spool is slightly affected. 3 - precision 6466. Probably the best turbo for your application. Can have a divided housing for better spool. Again, slightly above your price £2000 retail. I would go for either the precision or the borg warner. The borg warner s366 with a divided intake with a cast log manifold will be the cheapest and best bang for your buck.