Johnm400

To be honest, in the next 10 years i think the climate alarmists will be debunked and people will realise that the current fad is just another in the long line of failed doomsday predictions. The electric car idea will die a natural death as it becomes clear that its simply unworkable. How will people who have to park on the road charge their cars? You cant just run an extension across the pavement. How will charging stations work? You would need them on every road and there would be hundreds of cars lined up waiting to charge. Its nothing but a lot of pie in the sky and petrol and diesel is here to stay.

Cant say i ever tried them but they were always spoken of highly when i had my 350Z a few years ago. The Goodyear writing on the side looks really cool though

Goodyear Eagle F1 always used to get rave reviews a few years ago. Are they out of fashion nowadays?

Perhaps there are still too many available here? I know they are rare but are they as rare as they need to be for the prices to really shoot up? I dont think they are as at any point you can usually find a few for sale and sometimes theres a decent choice of them. It doesnt help when you have the guy on ebay selling dogs for 6K, it holds the prices of the good clean cars back.

'i guarantee there's not another Supra like this, anywhere in the world' Thank God is all i can say.

I just read most of this from start to finish and that car is absolutely stunning. Thats the best colour ive ever seen for the Supra, it just suits it down to the ground. Full credit to you for the amount of work and money you must of put in to it, it gives the rest of us something to aspire to, its truly amazing.

Yeah, only problem is buying a TT6 now is crazy money. If i did swap, id be looking at a standard twin turbo auto or 5 speed but as i say, im reluctant to part with the car ive got because its such a good one. If only i had a bigger garage, id whip the engine and box out myself as a project at my lesuire but with limited space im snookered.

No but if i was to go to the trouble of messing with the auto box, i think id just do a manual conversion but thanks for your info, its another option. I really didnt want to start messing with the box. The Whibitz website makes it sound like the NA turbo kit is suitable for just bolting on to the auto and thats it. This is part of the reason i put this post up, to find out if it really is just as simple as fitting the turbo kit and ending up with a turbo Supra thats reliable.

Thanks for the in depth reply. Now i have a dilemma. It looks like going turbo with the original NA auto box is going to lead to problems even just running 0.5 bar. This leads me to wonder if it is not better just selling the NA and buying a turbo as with what my car is worth + turbo conversion, i could just buy a turbo without all the conversion hassle. The problem i have is that my NA is a really good car, never been welded and solid and its all there and pretty much all original and standard with only around 60-70K on the clock.

Im am desperate to get the Whifbitz NA-T kit fitted but have a few concerns. My engine only has around 60/70K on it and runs like a dream, uses no oil, no smoke etc, i dont want to bugger such a good engine. It will be the basic NA-T conversion running the quoted 0.5 bar boost. I dont want crazy power and will be happy with the 360-ish HP it reportedly produces. How reliable is the car afterwards? I am concerned that engine life could be reduced. Is it really safe to turbo an NA engine without lowering the compression even if it is only running 0.5 bar? Is it possible to have a switch of some kind fitted to allow less than 0.5 bar boost for everyday driving or is there really no need because the conversion is perfectly safe to always run 0.5 bar? My car is also an auto. Is the box able to withstand the 0.5 boost ok with no reliability issues? I value my car at around 9K as it is. The kit costs around 7K supply and fit. Approx how much value would it add?

Thanks Frank. Very helpful. Will try after New Year if nobody come up with one they have lying around and dont want.

No, ill have a look but i dont want anything that looks boy racer'ish. I think UK plate just looks less ugly than the JDM square.

As per title....

Who has a UK style front number plate? Can you post some pics as i dont like the ugly JDM style square plate on the front and im thinking about going UK style. Can you still buy the UK plate holder or does anybody know of one that fits off another car, maybe MR2?

Ok thanks matey. It only moves sideways a little bit so no big deal, im perhaps overly fussy and little things like that grate me.

What causes the handbrake leaver to wobble from side to side when its in the off position? Its not to the point that its an MOT failure but it just makes the car feel old and worn. Is there a pin that wears or a bolt that can be tightened?

Its only about 20 quid for 2 years with my insurance so worth having IMO.

Lights on the heater dials. Usually a dry solder joint that can be fixed fairly easily.

I must admit, i do cringe when i see people advising not to use anything on the underside to protect it. The bad stuff is the traditional black bitumen based underseal. The good stuff is wax based. Waxoyl does offer some protection but the Bilt Hamber stuff is even better. Most of the problem areas are box sections and cavities that rot from the inside where the steel has little or no protection from the factory. The only way to treat them is with a good cavity wax. Even if there is already surface rust in there, the Bilt Hamber stuff has corrosion inhibitors that will arrest it and stop it spreading further.

If its a Pioneer head unit it will work without any wiring needed. As previously said, it does become annoying though as it goes up as soon as you switch the head unit on regardless of listening to the radio or not. Simple solution is just disconnect the power aerial in the boot so that it stays down and just use the DAB if your radio has it? You will need a DAB aerial if so which just plugs in the back of the head unit and sticks on the side of the windscreen inside. Seriously, the hardest part of installing a head unit is taking the dash apart and then refitting it. You dont even need a loom, its just plugs straight in to the Supra wiring loom.

Just connect the green wire to the handbrake switch wire. Its already got a scotch lock on it and the handbrake switch wire is in front of you when you lift the gear surround up. 5 minute job.

This is why the first thing i did was inject all the sills, wheel arches and door skins etc. with a good cavity wax. I dont mean Waxoyl, theres much better than that these days such as the Bilt Hamber stuff.

How does this flt to a pre facelift bumper? Do you need to remove the bumper?

I've seen the copies but to be honest I'd rather go with genuine. I take it you get one loom with the genuine indicators because the facelift only have a loom on one side with the other side being wired in to the car. I wonder why Toyota did that, seems very strange.