Johnm400

Me either, not a single one and im on the road at work.

Yeah, thats deffo part of it, it really is just an expensive ornament, one thats in the way.

It would of been lovely having the turbo conversion but i couldnt justify the cost and work involved especially when i learned that the NA auto box would have to be replaced or modified to handle the extra power.

I think thats the best bet. Im not in need of the money although its always nice, its the space that i really need. I cant even park the Supra outside on the drive under a cover whilst i use the garage for detailing because it would get nicked or damaged around here. I used to be able to sneak a few cars in the back garden as it was council wasteland but they built a carpark and theres a large raised grass verge there now which would be an absolute pain to try and get the Supra over when nobody is watching! Ill give it some thought over the next couple of months.

Problem is, I've no interest in driving around a track. I'm sure I will enjoy driving it on the odd drive out during summer (if this ever ends) but is it worth keeping for half a dozen drives out during the summer? Don't get me wrong, I'd be very sad to see it go but I could be doing so much more if I had the space it's taking in the garage and I cant park it on the drive as it would either be gone in the morning or wrecked around here.

Ive not used the Supra since last summer and to be honest ive not even had the urge to use it. I also could do with the space in the garage to detail cars. Im thinking of selling up but i dont want to sell now and then the prices suddenly rocket. Mines only an NA auto but its in great condition and unmolested and whilst i realise its never going to be worth a fortune like a 6sp turbo, its still a Supra at the end of the day. Ive noticed there are no 7-8 grand cars being advertised recently, everything seems over 10K even some that look rough. Theres also the issue of regret. Am i just going through a phase and ill regret selling it in 6 months? I always said i would never sell it but i really do not feel the excitement or urge to even wash all the dust off it that its collected over winter. Do i sell it and free up garage space and the cash or do i wait and see how i feel over summer?

Now that is interesting. Thanks for reply.

Has anybody managed to swap the indicator stalk from right to left maybe using the stalks out of a later model Toyota? Is it even possible?

Whats the best way to tackle this? Car is completely rust free but just starting to bubble slightly on one corner of the rear glass so in spring i want to try and tackle it before it gets too bad. I know its a glass out job to do it proper but how have people treated it without it coming back? Seems like the factory paint is thin on those corners and water gets under the seal on the curve of the glass and sits there. Im thinking its a cut out metal and weld in new steel job but its going to be hard to keep the right shape.

Mask it up properly, give it a light rub with some fine wet and dry paper and then give it some light coats of satin black paint thats suitable for use on plastic. Ive done this before on MR2 window rubbers and they came up like new. The only bit i wouldnt advise doing is the rear window surround as the plastic is not the kind that the paint will take to unless you do a fair bit of prep first and you really need the glass out for that. - - - Updated - - - Mask it up properly, give it a light rub with some fine wet and dry paper and then give it some light coats of satin black paint thats suitable for use on plastic. Ive done this before on MR2 window rubbers and they came up like new. The only bit i wouldnt advise doing is the rear window surround as the plastic is not the kind that the paint will take to unless you do a fair bit of prep first and you really need the glass out for that.

Ive got an Autowatch fitted. It always makes me laugh when you try to open then lock the car too fast, it sounds like its in agony!

Only problem with putting it in the boot is that somebody could watch you going to the boot every night before you go into the house. Its up to you but id put the switch somewhere you can reach it whilst in the car so you can flick it over discreetly without anybody knowing.

LOL, my cousin had 3 in the 90s and every one got robbed.

I think a kill switch is good idea as long as you tap into the loom behind the dash where it cant be seen and can isolate something that cant easily be bypassed. Then you need to think about finding somewhere to hide the switch, perhaps behind the dash somewhere where you can just about get to it and it cant be seen. My car has an alarm and immobiliser that was fitted when i got the car, its garaged with an alarm on the garage and ive got CCTV pointing at both garage doors and i never leave it parked anywhere else otherwise i would deffo fit a kill switch. Im more concerned about being hijacked when im putting fuel in or opening the garage door to be honest but if you're a big dude that eats his corned beef i guess thats less likely to happen.

Thanks for the reply guys

First thing i did when i got mine was similar to this only rather than taking it all apart i used a long flexible lance that sprays in a 360 degree pattern. The sills are really important to do as its usually the weak spot on the body of the Supra like most cars. I really could do with removing the rear pods and double checking in there, how do they come off?

To be honest, these are not really true ceramics. Ceramic has just become the new buzzword of the detailing industry similar to how synthetic is used on almost every engine oil these days despite most just being modified hydrocarbon oils. These spray 'ceramic' products are a precursor to a true ceramic and are just heavily modified silicones. A true ceramic will cure and become hard as glass within hours once exposed to the oxygen in the air. True ceramic coatings must be packaged in a protective atmosphere using inert gas to keep them from turning into silicon dioxide (Quartz) whilst being shipped and stored before use. Its pretty much impossible to put a true ceramic into a spray bottle as not only would it go hard in the bottle before it could be used but the nozzle would clog up after the first use.

Get it coated with a decent ceramic and you wont need to keep getting it polished. Ceramics really are the way forward.

Detailing is really just an American term for a proper full valet with machine polish. I do my own and have been since the 90's. I supply professional car cleaning products as my job and its a hobby of mine, i have even made my own waxes for personal use in the past. No one action other than a full respray can improve a cars appearance more than a full detail, it gives me a lot of satisfaction taking a car from looking nice to looking amazing. Ive just recently applied an 8 year ceramic coating to my Supra and also to my brother in laws F Type Jag. Waxes are satisfying to apply but they are out dated technology these day. They soon lose their initial gloss, dirt starts to stick to them once they lose their initial slickness and their performance is generally far inferior than a true ceramic coating. If you do have your car detailed or you do it yourself, the best advice i could give you is understand and perfect your washing technique afterwards otherwise you will of wasted money/time and you'll end up back to where you started in no time.

Well i removed the inspection cover in the boot and all looked ok in there. None of the pipes looked to be perished or leaking around the fuel pump area and there was some dirt on the top of the tank but nothing major. It looks like im left with no option but to drop the tank so i can inspect the filler neck area.

Hi, thanks for that. Ill have a look there and hopefully i will be able to see the problem before dropping the tank.

Im not with the car at the minute but i dont think it does have a carbon canister although i could be wrong, ive never really taken much notice to that tbh, ill have to double check later. Why, whats the score if it does?

I still have a problem with the smell of petrol around the rear drivers side near the fuel cap area. If i open the fuel filler flap after driving, it stinks in that area. Ive checked for leaks around all the pipes under the car and replaced the fuel cap with no joy. Im almost certain it must be the fuel tank breather pipe that is corroded along the steel section or perished along the rubber end sections. Is it possible to get to and remove the breather hose that runs across the top of the fuel tank and up to the fuel filler neck without removing the tank and if so, how? If not, what is involved in removing the tank and how long does it normally take? Thanks.

Mine was leaking at the rear but i nipped the bolts ever so slightly and it seems to of cured it for now. Might be worth changing your spark plugs why you have the inlet off.

I would personally keep the car and get it repainted and a good top to bottom service. If you hold on to that and look after it, its an investment and of course a memory of your father. As it is id say you're looking early twenties or creeping towards mid twenties with an MOT and top to bottom service. With a decent respray and the front bumper back to standard you could be looking around 30K.