chris_bramley

I've been reading a VERY old thread on this concerning 6 supies doing similar things, and Chris, you mention the EBV or the EBV VSV being a possible culprit? if the TTC mod takes the IACV and EGCV vsv's out of play, and the first turbo vsv is bypassed or seems ok... am I correct in thinking this is the only one left, and one that cannot be bypassed but MUST work? I'm starting to see this system in my dreams, it seems tantalisingly close to working, almost. Chris, email dropped to you with a list of what I've tried thus far. I guess there is more likely to be an issue with the EBV VSV than the EBV itself... I've also driven and then taken the pressure line off the iacv vsv and had a pretty hefty PISH! of released air, so I'm fairly sure the pressure tank and related bits are ok. Edit: This morning I bypassed the frontmost vsv entirely, same issue, and did a test where I bypassed the ebv vsv. Does this possibly mean it's the ebv (of all the parts to go wrong)?

I do indeed, and I'll be able to afford it soon - I'm about to start a new job. Every time I've saved money up it's vanished down a hole in the ground over the last year - 2007 wasn't the best for my car or my finances! I've set the car up to run TTC style and taken the two vv's you are mentioning out of the equation, and the very front vsv that comes off the first turbo actuator I replaced with one you sent me ages ago, if that's the one you meant. Either way, I'm getting under .5 bar of boost, seq or ttc. in seq it's about .5-.6 and then drops to .2. All hoses possible replaced. I'll drop this in a mail as well...

Thanks for the reply Rob, unfiortunately I've tried that - replaced every single hose, and tried testing with ttc as well so the vsv's aren't even a factor. far as I can tell the egcv is only activated by pressure and that seems to work. grrr.

Ha, true enough Chris, but you have to understand I also have the worst luck in the world - redundancies, job losses, major ops where they broke half my face up and moved it around, debt, and a couple of other things keep getting in the way. If I'd had the money I'd have driven it to you at the start and left it! Besides, I've learned a lot about the engine... On that note, I've found using a bike pump of all things that the armature on the IACV AND the EGCV both work fine through air pressure. I'd guess that means they are ok... I'm SERIOUSLY considering just trying to finance a single turbo by now! more room, less to go wrong, easier to fix

It's the large silver valve that sits under the turbos at the driver's side, just beneath the heat shield. Big fat silver looking thing with an arm coming off it behind. Having said that, I've done a pressure test with (of all things) a bike pump and the arm moves fine, so I'm a bit stuck :s Let me check up on it first and then if you've got that part I may need a new one...

I'm sure it's the problem I'm having. It MIGHT be the IACV as well but odds are it's just the one. how much for an unused/second hand one of these?

The armature moves well enough if levered with a screwdriver, so if it's a problem it would be internal to the egcv I suppose - do these go wrong much? I'm sure getting it off won't cause much of an issue relative to recent work. Any clue why the first turbo is running a lower bar than it should? (bpu bits and 1.4 hybrids mean it should be hitting at least 1 bar...) anyone got a working one they can spare?

Right. I'm convinced it's the EGCV. With a fiddle of the balancer box hoses and a bit of tinkering, the first turbo is hitting .6 bar and then it dumps everything and I get about .2 bar. According to the wise Ian C's sequential checklist, and as this doesn't work in TTC, I guess this component is either sticking or faulty. Can anyone give me a hint on a) how to free it up and make it work b) if not where I can get another egcv and c) how much for. Cheers

I've now tried the TTC test with the vacuum hoses - still getting about .5 of a bar. Would that not suggest it's the EGCV not opening? It's the only thing left I can think of. If so... how do I free it up?!

Tried that Ian, same thing! I was trying to get the EVC back in to see if it made a difference - I dont' have the original boost solenoid in the car so didn't know if the car knew what boost it should be running? I reasonaed if it needed a solenoid at least the EVC would provide some help the car's been plumbed as stock for ages and it's made no difference, same boost. Driving me nuts.

Hey all After months of being too arsed off to care (and cycling to work) I have snapped and gone beserk at trying to get the supra 100% again. I've been trying to plumb the EVC back in, but I can't work out, from the manual and from the various tips off here, exactly where everything goes. It;s all a bit too mish mash for me and so I'm appealing to anyone who has an HKS EVC V or similar that they plumbed in hose-wise from scratch to please give me an exact guide! There are 3 nozzles on the solenoid - B, I and O. B is plumbed across to the ETCS, as it always has been, and the gauges come off that so I'm pretty sure that's fine. The I comes off the top of the first turbo (discharge side) and is on a 3 piece connecting the vacuum pipe it would normally sit on and the solenoid, so all three of those are connected - I can't see a problem there either (according to the manual). So.. the O one says it neesds connecting to the wastegate port. The wastegate is still connected to the turbo outlet underneath the first turbo, so I've connected the other port. Seems to make no difference. Basically, with or without EVC, the car is making .5 bar on the first turbo; this drops to .35 -.4 when the second turbo comes in. the evc is the only boost solenoid present. I can FEEL the car wanting to give a lot more power, but it doesn't happen and that makes me sad. If anyone can verify if this is a) the problem 2/problem 4 scenario Ian C mentions in the sequential checklist, and b) can give me a guide on exactly how to put the evc in, I'll be incredibly grateful. Have replaced EVERY air hose (and most water while I was there), repeat EVERY, in the entire system trying to fix this. the engine bay is a riot of blue, my hands are weals of red, and my brain is melting out my ears. Help!

Cheers Ian - do they get removed from below after the bolts are removed?

lol well, I only just read it!

nads. Now I'M having this. I know what it is too - the driver's side catch presses down but doesn't lock. The other one does, tested with a screwdriver! the driver's side one goes down all the way and then just flips back open. Anyone know how to take one apart and tinker with it? If so I could use a pointer of what to look for! Chars C

Nah, I reckon the after is barracuda style. Before it's a damn SHARK I've got the ridiculous veilside on mine. Hated it at first but it grew on me - especially as I started getting "that black car looks like the batmobile" comments which amused me. Anyone know how to mod a toyota badge to the same size in bat symbol?

Bugger. ended up taking the intake stuff apart anyway so measured it myself - was trying to do stuff without resorting to that. Hey ho. For anyone's future information, the two rubber pieces (one circled above) fit on pipes with a bore size of 52mm and are 10cm long; the smaller one behind these two below the vacuum piping next to the head is 42mm bore and 12 cm long. Nearest nomex-strengthened solicon turbo hose I could find was 51mm and 41mm respectively - not too pricey either.

Right - a rough eye estimation of these pipes looks likes it's 67-70mm or so. Here's a pic of the rubber bit I mean: there's two of these and a third one down behind them roughly in between them next to the head. Can anyone confirm bore sizes? Oh, and don't worry about the turbo hose bore size on the front turbo people. Turns out whoever had the car before me (whichever owner) seems to have, um, converted the steel oil feed pipe. I'm sure that isn't right.

My turbos both kick in fine, but I'm getting, ooh, .5 bar dropping to .4 with both? Most odd. The power's there but it just doesn't come in fully. After months of getting frustrated, I have given up and I am replacing ALL hoses I can reach with silicon and clamps,and there's already a marked improvement - the old hoses had been there a long time and put on and off too much, hairline holes all over. I'm nearing completion on this, but I want to make sure I've covered all the bits, so I'm looking to replace the two accordioned high pressure hoses that attach between the twin turbos, and the oil hose the attached from the bottom of the block to the underside of the first turbo (It's crap, kinked and needs something better). Can anyone tell me what the best replacement for the accordioned pressure pipes is (I've been told a turbo rated silicion with nomex will last much longer and take the heat and pressure fine), what size I need for the bore, and what size/length/make/blah I need for that turbo oil hose? I am also looking to replace the short hose at the top and back that goes from the second turbo area to the head, just rear of the vacuum tubing array, but I can't get the bloody thing off to measure it and if I do it might crumble. If anyone knows that one's bore size as well I'd be grateful

Thanks for this - I've already done it as recommended but I don't know how to wire the actuators open, so: a) how do I do this and b) what does it prove/what should I look for when I do?

Mike M, not really - not entirely sure how to. I'm not 100% turbo conversant yet Ian C, how would I wire them open? I take it that would mean they pass the full amount of air and should then in theory work correctly? with both tubbies going for it, I am maxing at circa .5 bar. irritating when I should be on 1.1-2. I get better response if I only push the accelerator halfway, so not full boost or pressure goes through. To my untutored mind based on what CW and others have said that would suggest boost leak from a pipe would it not?

Ah but I have one advantage over you - the turbo is a rebuilt turbotechnics hybrid with steel innards, only 2 years old, and the car has been neither ragged truly nor running for nigh on a year correctly... so I don't think it's that. plus when it died the power faded out form the top turbo till it wasn't here any more... which sounds more vacuum to me. Ahh, if we only had room for twin T74s on the engine

Did it to test the tubbies, the second of which is being pissy. sounds GREAT! real feeling of power on the throttle... everything a go-go until it hits 5000 rpm and just doesn't seem to go anywhere. I think the tubbies are both fine, but I've been having real issues on vacuum stuff for ages - only on turbo comes in as per norm, at 3.5k!! and then at 4.5 there's compressor surge or lumpiness and the boost drops from .8 to hmm .6. Meant to be in at 1.5, boosting full by 2.5,at .8, then second in at 3.5/4 and boosting at 1.1 bar till 8k! I can feel the power there, it just goes... nowhere. This test proves it ain't the vsv for the 2nd turbo, it being out the loop. Anyone else thinking vacuum pipe pinprick or something silly? FYI I have an HKS EVC V plumbed in and NO CLUE how it should be done. Tried looking at your pics in the past lads, can't really work it out! does anyone have a step by step setup guide for one I can use as reference?

Ooh, that rings a bell. Where does that fit? In between the new pipe and the rest of the exhaust? Or twixt the manifold and pipe? I assume it's a narrower ring of metal that, um, restricts the exhaust flow. Any idea how much they are and where to nab em?

Quickie - if you have a performance exhaust and replace this cat with a straight pipe (the other is long gone), will you maintain the correct backpressure for the turbos? I know about getting it MOT'd, never fear. I just need to know if it's as simple as removing the cat... or if something needs inserting to provide backpressure.

I have been planning on getting a single mod for a while, a t74 or like from BL. however, I'm told the twin is actually more powerful if set up right; apparently if you have a reasonable turbo like a t40-ish size for the primary and a t74-ish for the secondary, set up so each turbo feeds 3 cylinders, this is supposed to produce more power and response. I guess the first one would have to have a very short band and then the second would come in, ooh, I dunno... 3.5k? It would need to have a big band to run a lot of power for long acceleration, I would think. I'm guessing here, I don't know huge amounts about this. If I did, my second turbo would be working properly NOW! This assumes you can fit a t74 as the back turbo... and god knows how you'd program it all in, but that would in theory take care of low end 0-60 on the smaller turbo and then the bigger would spin in as the first one reached peak and give top end at high revs. Is this viable, doable, and ridiculously expensive? Is it worth doing? or are people so enamoured now of the room and slapping just one big'un in that it's the best way to go? Just thought I'd see what people think, expert opinions and constructive crisicism welcome. C