Zed

I never noticed the flat bits on mine when I changed them 2 weeks ago, I'll have another look as I still have them , although they've been butchered up after I used an angle grinder to remove them. Great tip though if they all have that flat bit.

Here's the link to cheaptoyotaparts http://www.cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk/flash/flash.htm It's a uk company as far as i know, you need your chassis nimber whenever you order from them. Hope this is useful, numerous members of the board have used them, found out about them from Mcanny.

It could also be the subframe bolts that need tightening, i think there is a thread called ' I dont creak anymore' which may be of some assistance.

I recently upgraded my suspension which resulted in terrible knocking sounds from the front end when travelling slowly over bumpy surfaces. I also ordered the drop links shown in the first pic and it completely cured the noises. Had to use an angle grinder and a very steady hand to remove the old ones though. I ordered the drop links from 'cheap toyota parts' for £34 each inc. They were genuine parts by the way so don't let the name put anyone off, even I was suprised when they arrived in toyota packaging with the correct part no's on. As far as the difference in length is concerned it could be to do with the fact that the j-specs tend to be a tad lower the uk cars, certainly if it came with billies on. So there may be a differnece in uk and j-spec drop links, although my car is now on springs from a vvti supra and the drop links went on fine and the handling is great. Hope this is of some help.

Yes !!

Thanks for the reply Chief, I was being a bit too eager as usual. Just before reading your reply I have been looking at the connector properly and noticed the two wires at the back of the connector which were obscured by the other wires. For anyone else that tries this, the bands on the two wires change from peach in the tailgate to silver at the connector behind the panel. I have also confirmed this by using a multimeter to check for continuty and they are the right wires. Finally, having looked at your pic in my original post I've noticed where you cut the wires from the connector, i never even noticed that the first time, I just assumed the two wires appear out the loom on their own, oh well, all on track now. I'm also covering the inside of the wing and wheelarch with some dynamat type material so haven't really wasted much time. Can take pics if anyones interested. Cheers Chief, and everyone else that offered advice.

It is the two wires on the passenger side of the car that come from the 3rd brake light. The connector in the tailgate for the light has 2 wires Green with white stripe and peach band and white with black stripe. However, these two wires do not appear at the connector behind the panel next to the rear passenger seat, as described in Chiefgroovers guide. I hope that makes it a little clearer, I suspect it will only make sense to someone that has had to do this previously. Cheers.

Cheers for the reply mate, but I did'nt mention in the post that I've just fitted the 'real' brake light already, my car was one that had the dummy unit. Just need to get the wiring sorted now. Cheers

I attempted to follow chiefgroovers wiring guide but got stuck at the first hurdle. This is a link to his guide http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=37891&page=2&pp=15&highlight=brake+light The first pic I have attatched is chiefgroovers which shows the two wires mentioned to provide the earth and live connections. The second pic is one that I took of my car but the two wires coming from the brake light are not present. Any ideas, will they be further up ? Thanks.

I have recently upgraded my suspension and so have some standard uk spec shocks if your interested. They were replaced by the previous owner at 94,000 miles and the car currently has 108,000 miles so the shocks have plenty of life in them yet. I also have the official toyota invoice for the major service in which the shocks were replaced so you can be sure of the mileage they've covered.

My car started doing this recently after a suspension upgrade. If it's a knocking sound that is mainly present at low speed but hardly at all as you speed up then it's 99% likely to be the anti-roll bar drop links. If you can get the car on a lift you can check these by trying to move the end of the anti-roll bar which should produce the sound that is bothering you. I've just ordered some new ones from 'cheap toyota parts', £34 each. Hope this helps, took me a couple of weeks to discover the cause !!

That looks 'slick' !! I can't believe how shiney your car looks, have you got any suspension upgrades planned ? I recently got some new wheels too with the same tyre sizes.

I should be there, despite the crap weather, maybe put the RLTC through it's paces. How many people is that so far ?

Works best if you have the ivory leather, hope that's not racist.

My UK spec has all the foam parts shown, the car came with the toyota cd player in the dash and no changer.

Is that intercooler stuffer made from expanding foam, did you shape it on the car, seems like a difficult product to control. Got any pics of the turbo compressor cooling ? Cheers mate

That flap is seriously going to get forced back when travelling at speed, and maybe even cause the car to become unstable at a sufficiently high speed. Just today I ducted my fmic so that all the air that hits it is forced through it without any chance of escaping around the sides, which will hopefully mean that more air is now hitting the rad.

Spotted a red sup in the car park of St Brigid's primary school today, I won't say what town as you'll know who you are from the school name. Anyway, car looked very nice indeed, TRD skirts look awsome, could be next on my shopping list.

I've been wondering about this too, although not with something quite as strong as bleach. Maybe one of those shower limescale removers, do they contain bleach ?

The auto one also had some side skirts I think, maybe it was some sort of performance pack upgrade that included the seats.

Flippin 'eck dude, that looks awesome, fantastic choice of color, love the doorcards, top quality job. So who did the re-trim? I would just buy the standard toyota ivory mats, you can't go wrong at £11.02 for a set of 4, you can't even buy crap ones at halfrauds for that much.

Have you got a boost gauge fitted as this will make diagnosis a bit simpler. I had a similar problem a while back which was due to a broken EGCV ( Exhaust gas control valve). Thses are about £400 from toyota, although shouldn't be too difficult getting hold of a used one, especially j-spec. Anyway try searching for a post titled " Is my 2nd turbo dead" this will explain the sysmptoms I had and hopefully be of assistance to you. Good luck mate. ps. this thread should help too http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=35926

Cheers for the comments guys, Kosmic, that's what I thought about the positive camber so I went out to look at the car and the wheels are very slightly turned which just creates that illusion.

After about 2 months of being sat in the garage I've finally fitted my 18" AVS alloys, was waiting for my suspension to arrive first which I did last weekend. Anyway, here's a pic, only one i'm afraid as my sisters golf was parked in the way which I just about managed to keep out of the pic. Nearly forgot, thanks to superstardj who I bought these wheels from, top bloke.

The link to mkiv.com is all you need, it's what I used to fit my avcr. Supradibbs, I think you forgot to polish your brake master cylinder ( or is that one the slave cylinder)