Zed

Just to re-iterate wez's comments, I would remove the filter after you've drianed the old oil. Otherwise some of the dirty oil left in the filter may pour back into the sump with the nice fresh oil !!

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That engine looks remarkably standard considering it's a 3000 litre !!!!!!!!!!!

sorry, this was supposed to be a reply to the supra on e-bay thread. I'm unable to delete it, so if anyone else can then please do so. Thanks

The engine looks quite similar to mine, even though this one is a 3000 litre!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mine is an early uk car with the dummy light, I managed to make the srtip light with 12v leds from maplins only to find out that the conector that is already in place isn't even live!!!!! If anyone can give advice on how to wire it up I'm sure there's a few of us that would benefit from this. Thanks in advance!!

The standard sizes as on the uk 17" wheels are, 235/45 17 and the rears are 255/40 17. I assume the new tyre sizes will probably increase the rolling circumference of the wheels and therefore your speedo will most likely become more accurate. Hope this helps!!!!!!!!

Should be pretty obvious from looking at the existing brakes. If they have a flat surface with the 'supra' logo on them then they're uk spec brakes. The calaipers look like they are one big solid peice as opposed to the j-spec ones which look like they're made of a couple of pieces. Hope this helps

These experiences would suggest that my speedo probably isn't over reading by 25 mph when it shows 175. It's more likely over-reading by about 6-7 mph. So my question is, how come the rev limiter is cutting in so late when the car is supposed to be restricted to 155?

I've had an indicated 175 when the limiter cut in, but i'm sure this was not the actual speed. I beleive the supra is quite bad for over-reading at high speed. Assuming the limiter cut in at an actual 155 then it was overreading by 25 mph which sounds like a very high margin of error indeed!!

I've just got a standard gatso letter stating that the police have photographic evidence of me doing 55 in a 40. This is in my Citroen Xantia (no jokes) which I bought 3 weeks ago. Except the offece took place in February!!! I thought they were supposed to notify you within 2 weeks. I just filled in the section on the back saying I've only just bought the car. Hopefully that will be the last of the matter.

MCanny, nice tints ;-) , what % tint are they?

I actually had the same poblem with my washer on a jspec celica gt-4 that i owned a couple of years back, but worked out the button pressing thing within ten minutes!!!! Not that I'm taking the p1$$ or anything!!!!! Although it took guts to admit your mistake, instaead of just lying and saying it was just a faulty connection or something. One of the classic threads for sure, maybe there should be a section for non-technical solutions.!!!!!!!!!!!

The HKS filter was slaughtered by the Apexi in a test which you might be able to get a link to on mkiv.com. The Apexi is also a dry type filter so less chance of filter oil clogging up the intake as compared to say a K&N. Hope this helps!!!!!!!!

That oil will be fine, it's a very popular oil with the board members, but you definitely don't want to be pouring in 6.5 litres!! 5 litres should do the trick, maybe just a fraction less and then check the dipstick after 10 minutes or so.

I think the re-tread strips are something that articulated lorries use, never seen anything like that for car tyres and i would definitely avoid them even if they were available for cars since the cornering forces generated by supra would be huge, not something a lorry driver has to worry about. Mcanny, just wondering what profile you have with those 275's, is the overall rolling radius slightly larger or smaller than standard and does the car sit differently. Also, do the 275's stick out a long way from the wheel edge, I would expect this to reduce the rigidty of the sidewall, did you notice much change in the handling.

It's very unlikely that you would'nt pass if the front cat is still in. I have a super drager and the second cat removed and it passed quite easily. So you've got nothing to worry about!!!!!!!!!!

I had my rad re-cored last August after I noticed my freshly re-gassed a/c condenser pi$$ing out all the gas. After removing it I also found tons of leaves at the bottom which must have contributed to the bottom of the radiator and ac condenser rotting away. Anyway, Northern Radiators managed to re-core mine using a Lexus core since it was the only one big enough. Can't remember if it was a GS 300 core or LS 400 core but it certainly did the job, I think it cost about £200.

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I bought Zymol starter kit last summer for £100 pounds and manged to get the lehm clay bar thrown in for free. My supra is also black and can honestly say that it is by far the best car product I have ever used, and i've tried lots. My car is alway outside and even after the winter months the rain still beads. The singl most impressive product is the HD Cleanse, after using this my car looked like it had just left the showroom even though it is a 94 car. From what i've seen and heard of swissol it is just a rip off of zymol but still a very good product and the price is about the same too. I would suggest getting the Zymol starter kit, this should last about 2 years, the wax may last even longer.

the lights look cool, i've just finished making my own led barke strip light for the bootlid. Mine was one of the uk cars that did'nt have it installed. Did you use regular 12v led's? Where did u get them from and how did u actually install the led's? Thanks.

Yes they are the same thing. A lot of people tend only to replace the second cat due to mot reasons and also boost control. This is what I did and passed my mot last week without a single fault, not bad for a 93 uk car with 104k on the clock. Anyway, cw's 1 cat replacement pipe seems to be quite popular, I may get one myself as my MOT tester said it will still pass the mot (with some persuation!!!!!!!!! :flame Dev )

I think in the US they generally go for one peice pipes that replace both cats in on go.

I changed mine last summer after I had the system re-gassed and all the green stuff started leaking out of it. It's quite an easy job, i'm not a mechanic and had never done anything like this before. Just undo the clips at the top of the radiator, undo the cowling clips around the viscous fan, you might need to do this from under the car after removing the under tray. Undo the coolant hose from the radiator and the wiring to it as well. Once everything is disconnected the radiator will just pull up out of place. Be careful not to damage the fins. I did'nt need to be careful as i decided at the time to replace the radiator as well. The ac condenser sits infront of the radiator and the pipes going into it are a tight fit due to the high pressure under which the system operates. You might need a screwdriver to prise the two sections apart ( after undoing the nut that holds them together) I had everything out in a couple of hours, you just have to be careful that's all. You'll probably save yourself at least a couple of hundred in labour costs which is what the ac condenser costs, and I paid about 250 for the radiator. When I was doing this last summer I went a bit mad and decided to remove the bumper/lights etc and upgraded to an HKS 'S' type FMIC as well. Good luck, I don't expect you'll have any major problems, and it'll be very satisfying once the jobs complete!!!!!!!!!

thanks heckler, much appreciated!!!!!!!