Brian_C1

Some further information I've figured today, unlocking with the key manually also doesn't trigger the central locking when unlocking i.e it won't unlock the passenger door. But if I manually unlock/lock with the key on the passenger door it will trigger the central locking and lock/unlock the drivers door.

Sorry about delay in replying. Doesn't exactly work with the door open from the fob. Only in the scenario I mentioned in the original post. Unlock door manually then disarm immobiliser with the fob and open door. Then it'll lock/unlock as normal from the fob or the switch on the door. If you disarm first and then manually unlock and open the door it won't unlock from the fob/switch just lock once from the unlocked position. This hasn't been a intermittent issue, it was working one day and not the next and hasn't worked since then almost a year ago. It's possible the control module I got is faulty in the same way, I thought it might be unlikely since they can fail differently and show different symptoms but definitely possible

Bear with me on this one, as there is a couple of scenarios where this does and doesn't work. Basically I've a Clifford alarm installed that was working fine for about 3 months, then it wouldn't unlock with the fob but would lock fine. I could disarm the Clifford with the fob and manually open the door to get it. You can hear the relay/actuator clicking when locking but nothing when unlocking. Guys who installed the alarm were miles away and wouldn't look at it without a bill even though they had just installed it. So brought it to another more local installer to check it out, couldn't see anything wrong from the Clifford side of things. Bit of research here on the forum, showed it may the door control module in the behind the air vent/glove box area. Bought a used one, plugged it in, still the exact same. There is one scenario where the fob seems to work as expected but only in this sequence while car is locked. -Unlock door manually with key -Disarm clifford -Open the door -Now with the door open (not unlocked actually open) after following this sequence the doors (driver and passenger) will lock and unlock as expected from the fob. If you close the door again they won't, and if you disarm the clifford first then manually unlock and open the door and try lock and unlock it won't work, you must manually unlock the door with the key before disarming the clifford. Does anyone have any ideas what other relay, sensors, actuators or control modules could be causing this?

Fulcrum I have a 1994 TT Auto ECU at home in a box I'm fairly sure, but I think it may of had an issue with manual mode not working but everything else was fine. Your welcome to take it away just cover shipping from Ireland (£10-20 max), not in the game of making money on these, it's been in the shed with 2 years and had no intention of selling anyway. I don't want a pile of PMs from other members though I know Fulcrum has an issue so mine might help him out Let me know if Scooters doesn't help solve anything for you anyway

My replacement IACV VSV arrived yesterday and I replaced it, looks to have solved 99% of the issues, first turbo boosting better, second turbo boosting all the time now whether full or half throttle. Only possibly issue is in first gear second turbo might be bit slow on boost ≈5.5k rpm vs 4.5k in every other gear, is this normal or is likely there's a small boost leak somewhere probably the hoses going to the pressure tank

Yeah mine was simply a plug at the back disconnected, I thought I had checked everything but there are 2 plugs into the orange box that sits on top of the radio unit make sure you didn't remove this also when you removed your radio! One of these was disconnected on me

Perfect cheers, I'll take a look and see can I get access without taking too much apart! Either way I'll have to set aside a day someday to do it as at this stage I'm fairly sure the issue is with the pipes back there.

I've read about those before but always put it off and to be honest didn't even check the accessibility, how difficult is it to change those? How much disassembly needs to be done to get to them

Yeah I had originally though the extra half inch would ad some stretch over the stock 9.5 but checking pictures it doesn't seem to really so I might go with the 10 at the back then. Only issue is now they don't do black in the sizes I wanted so will need to get silver and repaint black, don't think the silver would look as good on a white supra

Perfect thanks for that, with the quote from SF a 17x9 et45 might he sufficient to clear the brakes without a space if et38 needed a 10mm spacer, ignoring the 17 vs 18 side of things, need to look a bit further at the tire selection for 17x10 on the rear don't want to be limited to spending huge money for decent tires instead of just going for 17x9.5 on the rear Edit: I've said that wrong haven't I? Larger offset will push the wheel in further to the hub

Cheers Nigel, I'll take a look at that as well later today Cheers scooter didn't get a chance to look at it yet but hopefully today I'll get a hour to go through all the suggestions here, cheers

I can't seem to find much information on these wheels for fitment to a Supra but I suspect they don't fit too well over UK brakes I'm looking at getting some Enkei RPF1 in preferably 17" but may go with 18" if that makes a difference They come in the following I think 17x9 et35 or 45 for the front 17x9.5 et38 for the rear Or 17x10 et38 for the rear (tires are harder to get this wide without stretching which I'm not interested in) Does anyone know if these would fit without arch work, I'm OK with using a small spacer if needed but nothing mad. Cheers

Cheers for the replies guys, I've ordered a new IACV anyway just now for €50 delivered ex customs if it gets stopped but I'll clean the EGCV actuator as well now this evening or in the morning, no harm in doing both!

Anyone any ideas on why my second turbo sometimes doesn't engage? Particularly in 1st gear but in all gears if I build revs slowly and floor it at 5k there's no boost, if I floor it early before second turbo is due to come in it usually boosts fine and if it doesn't coming off the power and going back on usually engages it fine. I've replaced all vacuum lines that are easily visible on top of the engine, I've replaced the turbo join pipes that are prone to collapsing what else could causes this? VSV failure? Thanks in advance

Any ideas on if they'll be preface lift or facelift? Or is it confirmed they'll make both? Highly doubt they'll remake glass with regulations against glass headlights unless they can get around them being remakes for an old production car

I'd be interested in a set of prefacelift units depending on the cost with the group buy if they change their mind or some other source is found

Cheers Greg no problem, enjoy your Supra ownership Cheers for all that info Rider, typical I just sold a mid 90s MR2 about 3 months ago that I could of taken a sensor off to check

Any further updates on this? Might order the Yaris ones linked and see how different they actually are, if at all. I think my sensors were damaged by garage doing underneath restoration when removing them from the hubs! To be fair I never warned them how expensive they are

I'm located in Ireland and used to know a guy working there (he's since left). I've bought and OEM Supra standard front seat and a pair of OEM R32 GTR V-Spec wheels, all as described but pretty expensive, Japan is expensive for parts now though.

Tried to pm you Westy but your inbox is full, if you decide to sell either set and replace with CS' or A8s let me know and I'll buy seat and rails from you. I actually have a search set up with JDM Distro for these on OEM rails with a couple of weeks so OP they already are searching for a set as it is!

Recently received my car back from and underneath restoration, engine was also out in the process. One issue when I got it back, no power to the HVAC air control unit, the back lights are working fine but nothing else, no power to leds above buttons, no fan control, no a/c nothing. I've checked all plugs at the back are fine, checked fuses in driver footwell and engine bay all fine, checked dimmer switch to right of steering wheel was plugged in (read here that might affect it) everything seems fine if anyone else could offer some help on it I'd appreciate it! Failed our MOT equivalent here because no demister for front windscreen!

Looking for a set of factory recaro SR2 seats (must be factory with the alcantara harness insert) with seat rails included. I know these aren't cheap but looking to see what's out there if anyone has a pair they are willing to part with. Cheers!

Looking for a drivers seat belt buckle part number 7323014480C0 if anyone has one Basically just the bolt on piece the seatbelt clicks into attached to the seat. Cheers

Wow looks amazing, definitely added to my list for when I visit Japan, hope to get over in the next 2 years maybe for 2 or 3 weeks. Choice of car would be difficult, do I go with something I already have, GTR, Supra? Or something totally different like old NSX maybe, are the roads suited to turbos or high revving NAs?

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