m12aak

Hi Pete, Thanks, I'm really pleased with them, and they should be a decent size/fitment for when I go BPU in the future. I was thinking about black, but it always seems (to me at least) that with black wheels they get lost into the arches, so I've stayed away from the really dark colours in the past. The reason I was thinking white was because my other car came with white Volks when I bought it (and I had them refurbed in white again), and quite like how they went with the car. (pic for context ) That's definitely a great idea to have them mocked up in different colours, I'll look into that. Thanks very much for offering your opinion and helpful suggestions! Izaak

Hi all, I've recently bought some bronze OG TE37's for my white TT6, and I'm torn as to which colour to go, as they've got kerb rash, so will need a refurb. I've contacted a local wheel refurb company and got a quote of about £500 to the original colour (they claim they can replicate the original anodized colour) or alternatively, I could get them powder coated gloss white for about £240. I think either colour will look good, I was just wondering what people's opinions are, bearing in mind it'll be going on a stock TT6 facelift (no OEM body kit). Also, if anyone's interested, the specs are: 18x8.5+30 18x9.5+35 Cheers, Izaak

PM Sent re. HKS panel filter

Okay, thanks for the info, I’ll definitely have a look under the wings, and thanks for the link to where you got yours done. I’ll definitely bear them in mind if I can’t find anyone else. [emoji1417]

Hi all, Hope everyone's keeping well. Yesterday I discovered that my Supra has quite bad rust behind the passenger side air duct after I was attempting to have a look and treat some surface rust on the driver's sill (also worse than I thought). Luckily I took all of the trim off both sides just to check otherwise I may have missed this. I was quite surprised to find the rust behind the passenger duct, as the driver's duct (which I removed first and gave me false confidence) was rust free. Now I'm sure everyone else's Supra's are in a much better condition than mine so this needn't be a worry but it may be a worthwhile place to check if you haven't recently. Drivers sill rust: Passenger duct rust: Inside view: Hockey stick rust: I'm not too sure how it has managed to get this bad, but to provide some background on the car, it is a 1996 SZ hardtop that was imported in 2003 and now has 90k miles. I imagine that it was undersealed when it entered the country and hadn't been re-cavity waxed since, and probably hasn't been kept in a garage since import either (I, unfortunately, do not have one myself - Yet!). I bought the car in Feb 2018 and I have only been touching up the driver's sill as it was the only visible area of rust (excluding the hatch) until a small bubble appeared on the passenger rear hockey stick a few months ago, which prompted me to get my arse in gear and attempt to sort it. Obviously, in hindsight I should have had this sorted as soon as I got the car, a mistake I will (not!!!) be making again. Nevertheless, I now need to get this properly welded/sorted whatever the cost will be (once we're all allowed back out again of course!), as this is definitely a forever car. By my reckoning, it needs a new driver's side outer sill and new metal putting in on the passenger side duct. However, as the driver's sill is this bad it is likely the passenger sill is also on its way out, so it might be best to get both done at the same time? I'd much rather stump up now and get it all done properly rather than have to do further repairs down the line. The car is already booked into JR Classics for a full underseal on 19th June so I was going to ask them for a quote to get this sorted at the same time (if they're open). I was just wondering if anyone else has had this come up on their own car and how they went about getting it fixed, as I know you can still get whole outer sill panels from Toyota, or if getting it patched is a better bet, and where you got it done (based in East Mids). Being from Leicester, I know Keron quite well so I am also going to give him a bell and see what his thoughts are re. the best plan of action. Thanks in advance, Izaak

My car is also not in the recall (March 1997 RZ-S)

Hi, I think the spreadsheet on the thread below should allow you to enter a custom RPM and see the desired speed. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?225050-Supra-specific-gear-diff-ratio-and-tyre-size-calculator Thanks

I’m interested as well, i’ll be bringing along someone with me, thanks

Brilliant write-up, thanks. Heater works amazingly now, initially, it was barely warm, even after a long drive. My coolant system was very dirty so I ended up doing about 6 flushes (3 with speed flush) and it got to a point where it was the same colour for the last two, so I then just filled up with Toyota Red. I used deionised water for the flushes which I got from Amazon (£1.50 for 5l!) which is the cheapest I've found it personally. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Carplan-Diw005-De-Ionised-Water-5Ltr/dp/B000C74XPE/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3IZ5H1ZTVSQ5X&keywords=distilled+water&qid=1581752169&sprefix=distille%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-7) Also, for you guys that are NA, I managed to get away with not needing the 3/4 hose, by taking off the metal pipe closest to the firewall (that connects both lines) and then just stuck some 1/2 (thin wall) garden hose in there and used jubilee's to hold them in. (see photo) Thanks again, hopefully this has saved my Heater Matrix!

Nice one, just paid. 1. Crossy 2. Spunkmeyer 3. Sheefa 4. m12aak

I’d definitely be up for it [emoji1417]

Done, Good Luck!

They're steel and are correctly torqued - you had me going there for a sec! , nice one, thanks.

Oh, well at least I now know - you reckon it's worth getting different ones then, or will they be ok?

Hi, I also had to get internal drive nuts, to stop scratching my wheels as the holes were tight. I wouldn't personally trust the internal drive ones from eBay (who knows where they're from and who made them), I recently got some from Driftworks, these ones to be exact: https://www.driftworks.com/internal-drive-wheel-nuts-m12-black-and-silver.html . I've only had them on for about a week, but they seem to be well made, and are steel, so should not strip. Hope this helps!

Hi, do you have any photos of the: Headlights both need refurb £100 a pair (are these facelift?) And also do you have the facelift front indicators (with looms)? Thanks in advance

Hi, It's probably a tad late, they should be all good, as I just fitted UK brakes and had to get spacers to get them to fit on mine, but my wheel specs were 17x8 +38 and I was only fouling on the wheel balancing weights. I have Volk SF Winning F-Zero's which have an internal barrel design that makes it tighter than a normal 17 for brakes etc to fit. I’ve only got a photo of the Jap spec brakes with the wheels but you can see how close they are already, so with yours being an 18 you’ll have a ton more space.

Received mine, many thanks [emoji1417]

53. m12aak Thanks

Nice one, I am definitely going to try this on my old belt, thank you [emoji4]

No worries mate

Hi, see above for photos of the seatbelt and its location in the car, I had the same issue where it wasn’t retracting, so I swapped it out for another unit (hence the photos of one out of the car), if you do have any success in getting your one to work, or need any more photo’s let me know [emoji1474]

Lovely to see everyone yesterday, thanks Crossy for sorting it out, hope to see everyone at another event sometime soon!

I’m car 7/6 - I hope there’s enough space! Looking forward to seeing you all there [emoji1474]

I had this issue when I first got my car (The weather was awful for the first couple weeks) It sorted itself out but as a preventative measure I stuffed one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pingi-Dehumidifer-Car-Home-Multicolor/dp/B00I3VKBJS In the space next to the module after taking the glove boxes out, I have no idea if it helped but I’ve had no issues since, all the way through last winter