m12aak

Received mine yesterday, cheers Mark.

m12aak (v2) x1 Payment just sent, cheers!

1. mark blythe x1 2. Ellis x3 (collect NEC) 3. Suprakeith x1 4. Ian & Jackie x3 ( can we collect from NEC?) 5. mwilkinson X2 6. Bradh_15 7. Peter P x1 8. Wile e coyote x2 (collect NEC) 9. tayr (please add haribo) 10. Hamilton x1 11. Gaz B x2 12. Madbull2255 13. Soopra 14. scottyt 15. m12aak x1

No problem! Yes I like to think you do with tyres, especially in the wet (where the differences between brands are exaggerated). Although there's probably a sweet spot in terms of price to performance. Hopefully you can find a few decent options on the previous generation UHP summers' now all the premium manufacturers have 'recently' released updates. Hope the bout of Covid wasn't too serious

Mine has been like that since I changed the original one for one of Keron's units. It kinda stays on, but many a time I've popped the bonnet and it had come off (I just rest it back on again). I have all the stock undertrays etc. and I haven't had any issues in any weather thus far. It's on the long list of things to do (was planning on cutting some threads off the stud), but as it hasn't presented itself as an issue it hasn't been a priority. I'm sure there is another cover out there, but it may just be easier to modify the stud?

I'm probably a tad late, if not, I have been using Michelin Pilot Sport 4's in the stock 17" sizes on the NA which is my DD. Tyre Reviews did a summer tyre test in 17" earlier in the year, you'll probably be pleased with any of the recommended: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Tyre-Reviews-17-Inch-UHP-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm. PS5's aren't offered in the stock Supra sizes yet. I've had a good experience with Uniroyal Rainsports on a Polo too. Camskill ended up being the cheapest when I replaced my rears earlier in the year, even including the £10 a wheel my local tyre garage charges to swap them over. I don't really risk driving it if properly snowing (no ABS/TC), so can't speak of how 'good' they are on snow, but all summer tyres are likely to be as useless as one another!

I’d like the spats please, I’ll PM you. Cheers

Thanks all, we had a great time too, appreciate it!

Goodness, very sorry to hear this.

Hi, the specs you mentioned will definitely work, I run the following specs: 17x8 ET38 (+15mm spacer to clear UK brakes) = ET23 offset - 235/45 tyre. Your wheel will sit 2mm further inwards. 17x9 ET35 (+15mm spacer to match) = ET20 offset - 255/40 tyre. Your wheel will sit 14.4mm further inwards. I'm lowered on Eibach lowering springs (Bilstein B6 shocks). I have no real rubbing issues, the rears used to graze (and I mean essentially kiss) the inner lip that'd smudge the tyre dressing only, and that was only when cornering hard, no noise was ever made or paint lost from that. The arches front and rear are original and have not been rolled. I'd maybe go for wider/better offset wheels at the rear as they'll be sunk in the arch as they are with no spacer, but with stock arches you have to be careful how much the suspension compresses as wheels the same/equivalent specs as mine may foul on your setup. You can use willtheyfit.com to compare. I would also consider matching the tyre widths of the OE 235/255 as well if you can, then you only need -5 on each of the profiles to be the same overall diameter (if that's what you're after).

No problem! I did indeed, thanks for sending them over

I don't trust myself cooking lol, but I'm happy to help out tidying and washing up for a couple of slots. Not fussed about which ones. I also noticed I'm in the list twice, probably my fault, as I bought my mates' passenger ticket separately a few days later. Will only be bringing one car this year (plan to start bringing both to events next year if possible) Cheers

Welcome! That's a shame and sounds like it has come at a bad time. In response to your queries: 1) It is possible that a BAD valve cover gasket leak could be the issue; leaking and filling the bell housing while being driven, and then dripping out when parked. I don't know anything about your specific car to know if it's a common leak, but it may be worth checking the bolts for the valve cover are tight, and then cleaning the area so you can spot the leak culprit better. You may also want to remove the valve cover to see if the gasket is brittle/flat if it is leaking. I think it would be very unlikely for a rear main seal leak to deposit oil up as it'd be hitting the bell housing for the most part. 2) It is worth checking if the oil pan bolts are loose, I had a 2003 Polo with a leak on the oil pan, for some reason 7 or so bolts were less than finger tight. Once I tightened it up, it was never an issue again. Oil pan bolts will be torqued up very low in the grand scheme of things, so use a small ratchet/spanner and be careful, there's little/no danger of making it worse from just checking they're tight and snugging them up. 3+4) It's hard to say (fortunate enough to never had this issue), but if the leak is due to the RMS, then it seems like it's not in a good way anyway. I'd presume it's pot luck if the seal worsens to being undriveable in 1, 100, or 1000+ miles. I imagine the two things that may happen that'd prevent you from driving the car to the Retirement Program location is a catastrophic blow out of the seal, no oil pressure and then spun bearings etc., or contamination of the clutch that's so bad you can't make any progress. I know there are also 'stop leak' products about from auto stores, this may be worth a try too if the car's destined to be recycled anyway (that's what I guess the retirement is). I quickly googled for a stop leak and found this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bluedevil-rear-main-sealer-00234/10148609-P which seems to work for some people. If I were in your position, I'd be checking the valve cover and oil pan, then if that meaningfully reduces/stops the leak, and attempt to drop it off for retirement, providing the leak doesn't massively reduce the $1500 you're going to get. If the leak does not get any better, I'd be trying a 'stop leak' product (which would hopefully do something) and then drop it off for retirement. If the 'stop leak' doesn't help, I'd then be deciding between risking it to retirement (and potentially being stranded at the side of the road and losing $1500?), or continuing to use it locally for as long as it can still get you to places, so you can save up for a replacement. Hope this helps and you can get the car dropped off to retirement without issue.

In for camping x 2 also

I've used plain silicone in the NA with good results, when I get around to refreshing the TT's stock lines again I'm going to use Gates reinforced hose as this thread recommended:

On a 'standard' 13x7in rear plate, my measurements were 60mm inwards from each side and 28mm down from the top for the centre of the hole. I drilled 8mm holes so you have wiggle room to make it perfectly fit and fill the hole (used flanged M6 bolts). Using a UK spec front plate mount (no lip round the edge like the jap ones), with a standard size UK plate it was 155mm in from each side and 11mm down from the top, using 8mm holes again to get the fit perfect.

Kept second guessing myself after I posted and checked anyway: https://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=291130&cartype=11&fig=8718, looks to be the same throughout production

Are you 100% sure? I don’t remember seeing any different part numbers when checking pre/post facelift, worth a double check if you are unsure. If you used the eBay compatibility checker it may be the case that seller set it up wrong as in the US they only got them until 1998 so any car later than that is automatically incompatible?

I used blueprint ones that kept leaking. I went through and tried the GTE washers/blue loctite (to no avail, the blueprint gasket must not be right), and have since moved back to OEM which haven't leaked since!

As per Scooter's links, it's probably the seal at the end of the Dizzy. It's easy to do and the part is cheap. Might as well replace your cap and rotor at the same time if you've not recently too. I found this guide very useful too: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/174881-distributor-o-ring-replacement-write-up.html Just make sure to mark the position of the dizzy before you take it off if you aren't re-timing the engine (although it's dead easy to do with a basic timing light).

First few mins shows him talking about/installing an NA housing back on, not done it myself but it looks straightforward especially as there is no cooler/sensor thread in the bolt. The TSRM doesn't mention anything special either: It'd be interesting to hear if it was actually leaking from there rather than it just being residual oil from when the filter's changed in a service.

Here's the wiring diagram, looks to be GR (? not sure what that correlates to on yours) and O (Orange?). Never powered them outside the car myself, but 12v from a battery (just using some additional wire onto the pins) would likely suffice. My passenger side mirror is loose and doesn't fold at all (motor has never worked in my ownership).

Yeah I got mine from Keron earlier this year too, he advised adding a coat of paint on top of the OE coating to make it last longer

Yeah I always found that to be slightly odd. I know the NA has definitely had paintwork on many panels (had bits done myself), the TT probably has too as most have by this point (no evidence of a full respray though to my eye), but the colour difference is significant side by side. The TT does have half the miles though and the paint is generally in a far better condition so I've always just chalked it up to that. I added the skirts, and they were painted to true 040. I'm hoping a 2-stage correction of the paint with bring them closer in colour (didn't want the skirts matched to the uncorrected paint).

Thanks mate, yes I agree, I don't like the way it looks on stock 16's either. I've got some TE37's ready for when it'll get its UK spec brake conversion hopefully early next year, just need to get the kerb rash sorted and some new tyres.