D1andonlyantman

Yep it goes in stock location. I just removed the bolt that was there. Yeah, I've set the TPS requirements to above 80%, and there are no doubt other ways to tweak it a bit. This will do for me though

Hey, sorry for the delayed replies. No matter what I try I cant stop the notification emails going in my junk folder... Im not sure what you mean by pigtail on the clutch switch, but all ive done is wire it to one of the ecus switch pins. The switch is at the top of the clutch pedal travel, so theoretically the switch will activate and retard timing etc for a split second while the clutch is still engaged. that is the lesser of 2 evils though I guess otherwise it would just rev its nuts off like you said. TBH im probably only going to use it for chavvy flames when on the move anyway. clutch in, retard timing and add fuel. proper flat foot shifting sounds great, but its also probably quite hard on everything. yeah, I think i'll find a good spot to attach my 'det-cans'. Especially until my knock sensors are dialled in. I haven't done any work on the main map areas yet, just idle has been sorted. It all needs to be wound back tbh. its very rich all over. what you say is pretty much how im going to map it. Stoich at cruise going to 12.5ish as the boost starts to come in, ending up at 11.3-11.5 at full boost. I haven't got EGT sensors, no. and im currently running 1bar spring pressure but will fit my 3port at some point and go up to 1.6bar I think.

Heeey, you're one of the people I hassled!! Haha. Cheers for all the help. Thanks for the heads up, I'll try the basemap knock settings then. It will probably be a good starting point if nothing else. Yeah, I know about borewash etc. The low load cells are ok. Rich for cruise (11-13) but not swimming. Once the boost comes in it quickly shoots to

Yeah, I'm happy so far. The software is really easy to follow too. I've changed a lot and the car is running pretty good. I just need to calibrate the knock sensors properly and then can start working on the map. It's really rich at the moment. Rich is safe as I'm sure you know. Just waiting on dry roads now really

Tbf what I'd written did make it sound like i meant external. Edited Thanks, hopefully I'm over the worst.

I'm not, I've got a mac 3 port that will be ecu controlled I prefer to leave it all ECU controlled for the reasons you said, plus the added safety features

brand new, released like 2 weeks ago! LOL. would have saved me a lot of effort, but also will cost circa £300, so im not too annoyed. Mine has cost me £100 or so

I meant uploading the pics to the site in my experience forums generally prefer them to be hosted elsewhere, but I know what you mean about photobucket! Yep, first time ive attempted any real write-up. I spent a long time searching for any sort of info when I decided to go this route, and there was sod all out there. I genuinely did just have to ask people questions until they got annoyed with me! it wasn't in vain though and I happily share what I've learned.

oh ok, I didn't know I could do that on here. i'll have a look and see if I can change it

Hi everyone. Earlier this year I started looking into ECUs for my VVTi TT6 as I was going single turbo. It didn't take me long to realise that me being VVTi meant that a nice plug and play setup wasn't really an option as I couldn't find anyone that sells ecus with a pnp adapter for VVTi. Its a 5 plug instead of the non-vvti 3 plug. Then after getting a quote for supply and fitting a Syvecs that was out of my preferred budget (quoted 3K+), I decided to do things the hard way and wire in a Ecumasters EMU BLACK instead. I'd been following this ecu for a while and was impressed at what it offered with such a low price tag, and after speaking to someone who had done this themselves and said it wasn't THAT hard (even if they did have a masters in electrical engineering lol), I pulled the trigger on it. For around a grand I got the ECU, a pre-terminated wiring loom and the stock ecu header connector. The reason I got the stock ecu connector is so that I could basically just make my own pnp adapter that plugs in place of the stock ecu, as I had literally no idea how to go about modifying a stock loom! The most complex electrical thing I'd done before this is wiring in gauges etc! So anyway, I ordered the stuff and then this turned up. (I also ordered a FPR so ignore that). In the box there is a nicely laminated card that tells you what each of the ecu pins needs to be connected to. Quite quite few of them are optional (wideband AFR controller, touchscreen displays, optional switches etc), so its not quite as daunting as it looks. Luckily there are a couple of stock 'pinout' charts on the internet that are totally free to view. IMO the best is wilbo666 which this would have been impossible without. On there it labels the stock connectors and then explains what each pin is for. Then it was down to me to pair them up with the new ecu pins. Most of them are really obvious, so that part was easy really, just a bit (very) time consuming. Some are a bit more confusing but I got there in the end. Before I even thought about wiring a single thing anywhere, I made a pinout chart that said which pins needed to be paired up to make wiring as easy as possible. This is actually my latest revision, its all working if anyone wants to use it. Once I had it all figured out I prepared to start soldering, something I hadn't done since school. call it 20 years lol. Now this is where the pre-terminated wiring starts to pay off. All the different wires are colour coded and labelled with what they are for. All I had to do was find the right wire and then check where it needs to be soldered to. I could plug it all into the ecu connectors later. In a few sittings I managed to get everything soldered correctly. there were a couple of mistakes as the stock pin numbering is a little confusing, but I managed to get it done, and this was the fruit of my labour. Then I connected everything to the new ecu plugs and basically had my pnp adapter made. This ECU has an onboard 4bar MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor which it uses to calculate the fuelling, and it also needs an IAT (intake air temperature) sensor to make adjustments based on air temp, so I had to get a boss and sensor welded on the intercooler pipe before the throttle body for the IAT, and also ran a hose from the intake manifold to the ecu which is in my passenger footwell. (It will be moved behind my glovebox once im happy I don't need to fiddle with it anymore). I ran the wire and hose to the right side of the bay, though into the wheel arch, and then through into the corner of the passenger footwell via a yellow rubber bung down there already. Not hard to do. Then the ecu had everything I needed to run, and after loading a basemap from the Ecumasters site, checking everything was assigned correctly etc etc etc it actually started first time! The supra comes with narrowband knock sensors as standard and its wise to upgrade those, so being tight as I am I researched which sensors id need, found out the commonly used shielded cable used for wideband knock sensors, and made my own rather than buying the kits. 2 of them cost me about £55 which is not bad going at all compared to buying them pre-made. fitting them wasn't so much fun though, and I had to take off the intake side of the engine right down to the block. Maybe there's an easier way, but I didn't know it. I wont lie, it was a ballache. But now that those are wired in I have decent knock detection. Mine isn't fully calibrated yet and the weather has got in the way, but the sensors are working and can see 'noise'. I also wanted to use another one of the ecus many features, and bought a clutch switch so I could use 'flatshift'. What this does, or rather what it will do (setup but untested) will make the ecu retard ignition etc when I press the clutch in without letting off the throttle. This means I can keep it pinned, clutch in, the ecu retards ignition etc to hold back the rpm but keep boost built, and then I can let out the clutch and it will carry on, all without letting off the accelerator. That does all sound quite hard on my stock engine though, so I think I'll set it up so I can have some flamey gear changes when I feel like going full chav. The clutch switch in the pic screws right into the stock location. So that's kind of where I am to date. Running a single turbo just on wastegate spring pressure at the moment, but its not fully mapped, so no full throttle pulls yet, but ive done some 3/4 throttle stuff and she's raring to go! hopefully I can get her mapped up, fit my 3 port *edit* boost controller (walk in the park after all this) and then eventually run 1.6bar on my Borg warner S362SXE, making 650bhp-ish with any luck. I've not made this to brag about what I've achieved, but rather to point other people in the right direction if they fancied giving it a go. I couldn't find any information on this and basically had to PM and hassle anyone who would listen lol. I didn't do this for fun (good thing too), I done it because paying someone else to do it just wasn't financially viable. But in the end, I am glad that I gave it a go. So far so good. Amazingly it appears to work, even the stock DBW. I hope this helps someone. Cheers

Hi. I had my bonnet pop open last night. My fault..... ive sourced a bonnet but the mount restrictor bit that stops the bonnet going too high is obviously broken and my scuttle panel got caught by the hinges too. Anyone got either of those? Cheers

Amazingly I've found some rocking horse shit. That's what friends are for

Hi. Im after a stock bonnet. would consider aftermarket but I'd definitely prefer stock. Even better if its in quicksilver Thanks

Hi everyone. I've recently found out that my emu black standalone can run using its internal igniter, so I was thinking of getting rid of the stock one to A. Get rid of a 21 year old piece of electrical equipment, and B. Give a stronger spark. However the ignition side of the MKIV is nothing I've ever really looked into. Has anyone ever done this and fancies shedding some light on how? Thanks!

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