Gareth Davies

So if you want to speed / congest / rob with impunity you just have to report your number plates stolen. w00t. If someone wanted to 'clone' you car surely they'd just write down the number and get plates made? Or are the new 'security' features that good? Seems like a bizarre thing to steal either way.

So if they don't tax petrol, what do you suggest they tax? They need our money in one form or another. Although i'm not a great fan on financing expensive wars, those wars do keep a vast amount of people in jobs etc. so it's all swings and roundabouts. Obviously that's a LONG political topic, so lets avoid that. But what is the actual solution to this? Vote someone else in that'll need even more money to pay for the last persons mistakes? Surely the core issue here is to locate why the government needs to much money then streamline that? Then it can actually reduce taxes? They wouldn't be so hardline about the 2p increase if they didn't actually need it. I think it would be very cool if some of the active people in this thread could get together in the chat room sometime and talk it though. Flames withheld it could be an interesting conversation.

Great thread guys, thanks. But it really does look like you actually all agree with one another and are just arguing the symantics! It's all redundant anyway you all want some nice ceramic brake systems so you don't have to worry about heat / warping etc at all. Not so cheap the last time I looked though. Arghh, I just noticed I wondered into technical... sorry i'll show myself out

The general warning light should always have another light come on at the same time. If you short the pins on the diagnostic port like described on Mkiv.com then it'll tell you the last error it recorded. It'll at least give you an indication of what it thinks is wrong. I've seen this come on and off intermittently a few times, and everytime it's because of the brake fluid level (once in the NA, twice in the TT), which usually has the handbrake icon on at the same time.

Thinking about it I was using one in a 'noisey' environment with a really quite long cable. And the data is pretty small so it would be mighty bad luck to get a faulty config. Thanks for the heads up. Maybe one day when I get it installed i'll be able to use my new laptop then

Martin, my experiance with them is that they're not actually very good. If anyone has one that they can say reliably works with RLTC could they please post the brand. 99% compatibilty may be fine for most devices, but i'd rather not have the 1% cut my engine at a bad time with RLTC

Cheers for the help guys, turns out it is just my aweful wiring and nothing to do with the actual sensors. The one plus side is it was in the system the ECU said it was, so it proves the diagnostics are ok. Even on the funky mines unit.

Awesome, thanks guys. That thing was making a very strange clicking noise so i'll bet that's our candidate. It's at Clive Attowes now so i'll pass that on so I hope he can find whats up. I'll bet toyota don't have one in the country though... I thought there was an electrical manual on MKIV.com. Couldn't find it though! Hmmm quick add to favourites. Thanks again.

Hi guys, my Supras a bit ill at the moment... After starting it sounds very rough, and without some revs dies off immediatly. After it warmed up it was a little better but was definatly running very rich. We've been fiddling around and the fault code I get from the diagnostics is 31 (which is the MAF circuit), I presume it means a similar thing in a j-spec car (which uses a MAP system?). I don't have access to the engine manual or anything funky (is there an online one somewhere?), so could someone give me a hint were i'd find the sensor in the engine bay. And what colours the wires are for the ECU. I fear it can be one of two things thats killed it, the water inflow from the ab-flug bonnet (if it's exposed), or somethings gone wrong in my rats nest of wires down by the ECU. Neither being particulary good, and the local toyota people aren't exactly on my favourite persons list after royally f'in up my NA... With the greatest annoyance being it's died in Norwich rather than in MK where Leons like 4 miles away! Grr. Any help greatly appreciated.

Yeah 'snow' mode was the 'improvement' on the facelift models. I find it crippling to the cars performance when it's on. A real heart stopper when it flushes all your boost down the toilet after crossing a cats eye mid overtaking. Pressing the snow on mine instantly dumps all the boost, pressing it is like letting go of the throttle at higher speeds. "Great Fun" ™. However it does allow you to drive a load safer in the snow... who would have guessed.

Chris, i've got a full Pioneer Carrozeria system in my supra... they're >very The unit I have in the boot (a silver box) is infact a DVD reader for the navigation data and nothing more. The Audio CD is in the head unit (double din). The slot being behind the facia (press the eject top left to get at it). The multichanger in the boot has a special bus cable between it and the head unit. They play CD-r's fine though. However I think it was infact the name for their entire range of top end kit. I can have a poke around if you want to know what goes where if that'll help. Matt H really is the master of this domain.

Oh silly me, neglected to think of the Aero Top scenario. £250 ain't bad for a gearbox But isn't there a whole load of other stuff to worry about... say a clutch / pedals etc? I really do think the ECU's differ. Strange that mine and Alex's Mines ECU's where the same model though.

Martin, are you sure about 2? I know the ECU's are a bit different, but I still thought there was kind of external control box as well. I'd swear i'd seen an auto ecu floating about (says the guy that was going to wire his RLTC into the aerial control). 6. Even if it's easier than first thought, surely it's cheaper to swap the car? But I guess that's dependent on what the car has had done to it.

1. Nope 2. Yes 3. ? 4. Dunno, but solved by 1 5. Ask the americans 6. This has been asked about more than a few times before, try a search. The question you should be asking is if it's cheaper to sell your car and get a manual. Answers more than likely yes. If you're going to all the hassle you might as well slap a big expensive sequential system in it. After all you must be made of cash...

That was after you asked them about how many spark plugs would you need right? You've never been up on charges of killing poor innocent car mechanics have you Brad? I must say I used to think it was as Kevin described... however I was 8 at the time

I don't think you people are being fair... there are clutches in an automatic gearbox, just not in the same capacity as a manual one. Sticking with Alex's reference strategy... http://www.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission4.htm

Adam, there's a fair amount of insight into this in the 500+Nos thread. Hybrids really need injectors / resistors / fuel comp but you can run without them (really depends on their size), big singles really require bigger than UK injectors and a decent FMIC but can make far more horses - at the higher end you're well into built engine territory. Which of course isn't cheap. Hybrids are about £1500 the pair + 350 for the injectors (UK used) and £300ish for the fuel comp. Singles are £3000+ about £500 for decent injectors and the same for a fuel computer... but you could really do with a uprated ECU, £1000 ish for the AEM if you're feeling lucky and £LOTS for a fitted motec.

I've got one thing against it... No 's I think we all know the little things soon add up with these kind of mods. And running the mindset of overestimate then feel better after is a good one. It's like getting a PO signed off at work, if it's less you've got some more money to play with Err of course what I meant to say is the excess is returned to accouting for appropriate redistribution. I recall talking to someone at billing about the various costs (My personal feeling is it's about £10k for a reasonable single upgrade from my current car), and they looked at me like I'd gone mad that I was willing to spend that much. But at the end of the day what kind of car could you buy for that? God knows how much Terry has spent on his car, but i'll bet that there isn't any new car that could touch it for the money. Infact there's probably very few cars at ALL that could touch it. Maybe i'm just getting infected by the americans, but 450bhp should be a walk in the park for a supra, BPU + hybrids should be fine. And it seems most of us bought our cars most of the way to BPU anyway. Infact I'd guess a UK spec could run 450 with just upgrading the turbos (or Naws). Geez our US friends manage 500 (A)BHP on stock turbos and BPU! Just if someone asked me how much it cost to get a stock supra to 450BHP - £7500 seems a load of money. But I had the luxury of not having to pay for all my bits since they were already on the car But a 650 BHP engine is 'probably' pushing stock a tiny bit too hard.

I'd definatly prefer Gavins way to Ians... You're ~£3k better off And yes Randy, we know everything costs shedloads more. If you're really going mental it's probably worth shipping your car over to the states getting all the work done and ship it back! Plus you get a free 20% power upgrade

Hey wasn't exactly being entirely serious there guys. And as I got all my figures from the tome of all truth (supraforums.com). So how dare you doubt them. I can't see the need to replace any of the stock items at 450 / 500 bhp (clutch, gearbox etc.). I couldn't change my wiper blades let alone a turbo, the labour costs were supposed to be amusing. Labour is probably more realistically between 50%-100% the cost of the items. Setup is what you want to pay. Seems to me you can do 80% on 20% of the cash though. All that said I think £7500k for 450BHP on hybrids is a joke though. Everyone here seems to be completly paranoid about toasting engines, where as our americian counterparts seem to not worry about it at all. Thats is what I was trying to illustrate, Maybe we should find a mkiv club inbetween and get a balanced viewpoint.

I think they're all being a bit paranoid. Why not just do it the US way... AEM ECU = $1500 T88 Turbo = $3500 1600cc Injectors = $1500 Fuel Rail = $300 Twin Fuel Pumps = $500 Total $7300 or ~£4800 Thats assuming you don't already have : FMIC = $1000 Exhaust = $1000 De-Cats = $500 (~£1600 + ~£4800 = ~£6400), Since I even I could do most of the greasy bits I doubt labour would be more than £1k (4 days?). Setup is a whole different ball game, but hey, just copy a setup from some other pep that has done the same and paid for it already. I can't see the need to replace any stock internals until > 500 BHP, and you've got a setup capable of over a 1000BHP when you can find the extra £10k to do it right 'Might' spool a little slower than hybrids though

There is an edit button you know Just a question mildly on topic, are there any problems attached to running very large injectors? (Assuming the ECU/Piggy back unit can adjust them). Or are they not effective

Did the brake light come on as well (the (!) symbol as if the handbrake was on). A fair few people have had this, usually related to the brake fluid level but also potentially meaning you need new pads(?) I know that's what it was on mine. The only other thing I can think that does that is fuel cut or potentially a dodgy speedo conversion. However this usually leaves the ! on until the car is switched off.

I'll butt in here, someone else from Aus recently here mentioned he'd just got a RHD 6-speed aero (and had some piccies). That variety was never available in europe (or japan). So I was under the impression it would have been a native Austrialian version?! They're pretty common in LHD, so it depends if that doesn't bother you (not from Japan though). Someone will no doubt correct me, but there is a fairly active Aus / Nz supra mail list somewhere. Sorry don't have the URL. Wherever they exist they are definatly VERY rare, and without changing the gearbox around aftermarket virtually non-existent in europe (I don't think anyone here knows of one). Anyway, good luck finding one

Can't you 'bed in' engines by just going for a blast at max speed? It'll either bed or blow... but at least there is no wait