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Just to update this, the rectifier only took a week to get to the UK, even with Easter inbetween. I got stung £22 for import fees though so consider this before ordering It looked great and more importantly it fitted just fine. I've the alternator back in and so far so good it's doing everything it should be doing.

Thanks for all the replies I ordered this replacement part from California so will give it a go and see.

I've left my alternator in with a local fella to get rebuilt but he's having trouble finding a replacement rectifier. He's heading off on Easter holidays this weekend and offered to either get me a new replacement alternator or keep looking for a rectifier when he returns in a couple of weeks. I would prefer my original Toyota unit was repaired rather than get a replacement and happy to wait but are the rectifiers typically hard to get now? Has anyone a part number for a decent (non-Chineseium) replacement that I can give him to help speed things along? Thanks

I've joined the blistered boost pipe club. Do we get badges? I've a pair of new ones ordered, plus a load of new vacuum hoses and a new lower rubber boost hose which I might as well replace while the rest of the pipework is off. I hope that'll fix my current boost issue, although I'm guessing one of my VCVs is on the blink, so those will be next on my to-test list.

I'm looking a J-Spec turbo heat shield if anyone has one lying around? (UK ones don't fit unfortunately) The one that I currently have on the car is in pretty good condition but has just started to disintegrate around one of the bolt holes, and although I can't really see it it's starting to annoy me so if they can be had for decent money I'd def be interested in replacing it. Thanks

Decided to try the car with the restrictor ring out. After a few tentative drives I gave it a few hard runs where it would consistently hold 0.8bar (rather than 0.7). I did see 0.9bar for a split second once. I’ll have to have a look at this turbo pipe next as it certainly starting to look like a restriction or issue elsewhere.

Both turbos are def working. The dyno graph shows the second turbo at 4,000rpm. I gave Whifbitz a call this afternoon about the restrictor ring and he couldn’t be more helpful. It’s a 1bar rr for all the bpu mods plus a bigger intercooler, which I don’t have. He suggested the same as above; Boost controller or experiment with the restrictor ring. Ideally I only really want about 1bar as I still want to play safe with the turbos.

Thanks for the replies so far. That's the link I'd used for the basis of the parts for my BPU and I took from it that removing the restrictive cats would increase boost, with the restrictor ring installed to bring boost pressure down enough to stop the ceramic blades coming off the turbo. It also reads from that link that BPU'd UK cars will still only boost to 0.85bar due to the bigger wastegate and so that's why they need a boost controller to increase boost above that. I'm def taking on board that a boost controller should help me, however that link seems to say that all that I needed to raise boost pressure on a Jspec car above standard were the parts that I'd installed. Have I read this wrong somehow? I do understand that I've essentially removed two restrictions (the cats) and installed another restriction (the restrictor ring) however it's all about the flow with turbo cars and so I thought the increased flow from the decats with some control from a restrictor ring would have at least provided some improvements when comparing both runs on the graph. So it's a boost controller needed or experimentation with the RR. Thanks again.

I'm with Adrian Flux with an agreed value policy. Might be worth trying there too.

When I bought my Supra late last year I took it to my local dyno to get a base reading which resulted in 289bhp and 278lb ft. After carrying out BPU mods my results today from the same dyno are 288bhp and 273lb ft. The car is a J-spec 1995 twin turbo and at the first run the only modification over standard was a Blitz Nurspec catback. Since then I've fitted: - Whifbitz decats - both 1st and 2nd - Whifbitz restrictor ring - Copper plugs at 0.7mm - Walbro fuel pump - Chris Wilson Fuel Cut Defender - AEM Failsafe boost/AFR gauge I took the car back to the same dyno today, more for a health check to make sure things are running ok after making these changes, but obviously also keen to see what gains I've made, and was a bit surprised to see the results are pretty much exactly the same as before the whole way through the run. I thought there'd even be some sort of differences, even at certain points of the graph! Can anyone think of any explanation as to why this might be? My first thoughts are that there is another restriction somewhere. The Blitz catback looks to be pretty much unbaffled so don't think it's something there. The only other thing I can think of doing would be to remove the restrictor ring and take it for a run to see if it boosts any higher, but would prefer not to do that given the risks involved. Any other place where another restriction might be? Thanks. Boost readings are consistently reaching 0.7bar, with a quick peak at 0.8bar, so pretty much same as standard. I've attached my dyno sheet below which shows both my run from last year and the run from today. The one with jagged lines was from the first run last year which the dyno guy says may be have some previous interference on the roller.

Brilliant. Thank you

I just got my Supra up on a ramp for the first time since owning it and discovered that the first cat is looking a bit worse for wear, so this is perhaps the push I need to go BPU and replace it with a decat pipe. The thing is, I'm unsure what this sensor is in the pic below. It's been put in post cat and looks to have been bodged in with exhaust paste which fell off it when I start prodding it. Is it an EGT probe? Whatever it is, is it OEM to the car, or is it something aftermarket? The wiring goes up in to the car over by the drivers side but I haven't been able to figure out yet where it goes after that. The car is a 1995 JDM twin turbo. Thanks Oh and just whilst I'm posting this, I've just bought an AEM EGR/Boost gauge. If I buy a 2nd decat, do I just need a decat with a single boss for the O2 sensor?

Thanks chaps. It'll have to be the OEM facelift mounts then. The car does very little miles annually and I just don't have the funds at the minute to get the pre-facelift mounts, brackets and bolts

Hi folks. I have a failing driver's side engine mount and decided that I might as well get the pair done, but confused as to whether or not I've pre-facelift or facelift mounts and brackets? My car is an August 1995 TT pre-facelift non-vvti auto. From looking at other threads on here I think I might have the facelift bracket and so would need a facelift mount, but was hoping you more knowledgable guys could check before I order the wrong ones, or help me figure out what I should be looking for if you can't tell by the pics below. If I need facelift mounts, are the Vibra-Technics ones the most recommended these days, particularly over the OEM ones? Thanks in advance This is a pic of my driver's side mount.

A friend of mine runs a 285bhp diesel-engined mk2 Golf GTI which has changed my mind in recent years of fast diesels, so I love the idea of the Cummins conversion, especially as the car was being broke anyways. It's good to see that Supra getting another chance at a life it might not have otherwise had.

This is my first year with Adrian Flux and my first year with an agreed value policy. I took out the policy with them using the price I'd paid for the car and this was accepted by them, but now in hindsight I wondered if I should have chosen a higher value to compensate for the increases in value mid-term. When I spoke to someone about this last week the AF person told me I've to now get it independently valued before they'll agree to increase it. Bugger

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That's a great find there. Lovely colour too.

Welcome to the site Looking forward to the pics. 1a1 is one of my favourite colours for the Supra.

Argh! I'd have jumped at this

Thanks Edvard I've probably convinced myself that if I do upgrade to 4 pots, it would be worth spending the extra to get a decent used Supra set. Cosmetically I just prefer the look of the them over the LS400s, especially freshly painted with the Supra decals I also know what I'm like though and could easily see myself ignoring my previous decisions and impulse buying a pair of LS400 calipers if they came up for sale at handy money lol

The non-turbo Subaru wagon is a good shout. They're still fun in the snow and can be made to sound nice with a downpipe and decat. What about a mk4 Golf V5? I looked at one recently advertised at £1,000 which a friend eventually bought. The later cars are 170bhp and have a lovely 5 cylinder noise At the minute I've a 2006 Mazda 3 Sport that I use as a runabout which I've had for almost 2 years. I prefer the looks of the saloon over the hatch. Cost me £1,500 with 65,000 miles on it. Comes with self levelling xenons, air con, auto wipers, auto lights. Everything works. Touch wood. 2 litre n/a 150bhp. Same engine family as Ford's Duratec. I personally try to stay away from old turbo stuff as dailies. I also picked up a set of RX8 wheels for £120 from the scrapyard which fit straight on and threw in a set of Eibach springs. Only thing is they can be rusty buggers. The arches are starting to go on mine.

Holy good God!!! So you've an extra grand now to spend on Supra parts

Thanks for the links folks. Some useful reading there and some differing opinions, which I suppose should have been expected. Fade would def be my main concern, but on the S3 2-pot setup I was able to pretty much eradicate fade with the braided lines and fluid. Not to say someone else wouldn't have overheated them on that set up, but I'm generally not a heavy breaker. I already have 2 litres of RBF600 bought and see the Goodridge braided lines seem to have more recommendations over HEL lines on here. I think the jspecs may stay for now and see how I get on, but if a decent 4pot/2pot brake setup appears for a good price in the next month or two I may still be tempted.

I've recently bought a Jspec twin turbo auto with the 2-pot fronts. At the moment the car is standard apart from a catback, however, I am thinking about going bpu. There's currently a bit of a vibration coming from the car after heavy braking which I'm guessing may be a warped disc, so one of the things I'm looking to do soon is to change the discs and pads and replace the brake fluid which looks a bit old. At the moment I'm trying to decide whether to upgrade the discs/pads etc or put off the bpu upgrade and get the upgraded Supra 4-pots. How effective can the 2-pots be with a good set of discs, pads, and a fluid upgrade? I'd be keen to hear from anyone who has done these upgrades. This September I'll be taking it the Nurburgring. I've been the past two years in a 2002 S3. The S3 was running around the same power as the Supra is currently and was around 60kgs heavier than the Supra. It had 312mm 2-pot fronts, Brembo grooved discs, Ferodo DS2500 pads, HEL braided lines and Motul RBF600 brake fluid. I'd be an 11min lapper, so not overly fast ; I'm just there to enjoy driving it within my own comfort levels. I also feel at that pace the Nurburgring feels more like a fast b-road blast to me than a proper all-out brake-intensive track day event. Obviously ideally I'd go 4-pots and that's possibly what I'd expect most replies to suggest, but I'd still be keen to know how good I could get the 2-pots in comparison. I've no intention of going further than bpu, the Nurburgring trip is one weekend a year and I'm generally relatively easy on brakes so I am unsure if I really need to upgrade the calipers unless the 2-pots are going to be rubbish no matter what. Thanks in advance.