Hamilton

I recently bought one of the Koyo ones. Really nice quality but bear in mind they require the brackets from an original condenser to be swapped over to it.

Dry solder(s) inside the heater control unit most likely. Fairly common now given their age but not too hard to fix.

I learned that dry solder joints on the odometer can cause the OD and Slip Cont lights to flash with no error codes. I resoldered mine and the problem went away. Cruise control not working and/or the auto box hunting for gears or changing erratically can also be symptoms caused by dry solder in the same area, but I’m not sure whether they could cause the limp mode you’re experiencing. Some of the wires to the odo do connect with the speed sensor though. Could be worth a look.

That’s a useful link, thank you. I hadn’t realised it clipped to the bumper- I have an aftermarket bumper which is presumably why the sensor was left hanging. I’ll try to find a home for it!

Resurrecting an old thread- does anyone happen to know where this air temperature sensor should clip into, or better yet have a photo? I currently have the front bumper off and noticed it’s just hanging there, but presumably it should secure to something…

Got mine in the post today. Amazing work as always- they get better every year! Thank you to all involved.

I’d be interested in a price for the battery tray please. No rush.

I don’t know how helpful this is but below is a photo I took when my bumper was off a while back. You can at least see how the bonnet release cable is routed and clipped until it disappears into the wing.

Hi Rich. Really looking forward to seeing this take shape. I followed the Just Driven F&F replica build on YouTube too and thought they did a fantastic job. Well done on finding the parts you’ve got so far- those wheels couldn’t have been easy to track down! Please keep us posted.

I’d check that your rear subframe bolts are torqued up as well. Anti-roll bar bushes can give that kind of creak. They’re easy to remove. Try re-greasing them first to see if the noise stops as that may confirm the fault before you spend money replacing them.

The size is T4.2 if you do need to buy new ones.

I had something similar. Forum came to the rescue! Wasn’t a hard fix in the end.

You may need to remove the outermost PCB to access the bulbs then. It’s been a while since I had my gauge cluster out but you can definitely replace the bulbs- my “D” bulb had also blown so I swapped it out.

There’s a fairly good video guide below: Once the cluster is out you’ll see the bulbs in a row on the back. They just twist out so can be replaced individually. What Toyota told you is wrong.

Likely a blown bulb. The “D” spends far more time lit up than all the rest so burns out sooner. Easy to fix though- remove the gauge cluster and swap out the bulb. Plenty of removal guides online. They’re T3 bulbs I believe.

I had this fault a while back so looked into it a fair bit. It seems the O/D and/or Slip Control lights flashing can indicate a number of faults so check the error codes first. In my case there were no codes at all so I ended up resoldering some of the dry joints, as described in the link below. This isn’t the only solution but it resolved the issue for me. As I say, check error codes before doing anything. Hope you get it sorted. https://mkiv.com/techarticles/trac_off_mil_odo/index.html

That looks great, well done. How did you pick out the lettering and logo? Is it a decal or hand painted?

Love that! Great work.

I have J-Spec rear disks. I’ll PM you pictures- let me know if you’re interested.

I’ve used Osram in my daily but not the Supra- found them very good quality and have lasted years so far. You’d be Ok using LEDs in the rears but they technically aren’t legal for the fronts.

Seems this has come up elsewhere and the difference in colour is put down to the lack of clear coat: https://www.supraforums.com/threads/engine-bay-color-code.1125954/ It’s sometimes surprising what a difference to the colour a clear coat (or lack thereof) can make, however if you’re convinced the engine bay isn’t 199 minus the clear coat then having the paint mixed is likely your only option. I believe primer, if that’s all it is, tends not to have a paint code.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I had this exact issue yesterday and wondered if anyone had any thoughts or solutions. Basically, after a couple of short WOT bursts the BOV started to sound odd, giving off noticeably quieter and shorter releases of pressure. The car continued to drive fine, pulling and boosting correctly as far as I can tell, and after half a mile or so the BOV returned to sounding normal for the rest of the drive. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing obvious, though haven’t had chance for a thorough look. I did think about just ignoring it as it seems to have resolved itself, but it’s now bugging me a bit! If anyone has any ideas as to what happened then I’d be most grateful. Car has BPU and stock turbos.

The decision was made for me as I bought the car with the rear wiper already deleted, however I do like the clean look of it and have no desire to put the wiper back. Plus the car never goes out in the wet!

I had this issue a couple of years back. No error codes. I tried various things but what solved it for me is the suggestion below. To be honest I didn’t expect it to work but the fault hasn’t returned since and it was an easy fix. https://mkiv.com/techarticles/trac_off_mil_odo/index.html

Helpful video here if you do end up opening the ECU. Doesn’t look too difficult if you have some experience. Please keep us posted!