Hissig

Yes. You are correct. The orange is pin 6 on the connector that goes into the "throttle control" box right next to the engine ecu. You can use this signal for traction control. Ive hooked mine up to Orange (front left) and Yellow (Rear right) and is seems to work.

i think they are indeed liquid filled from factory. Anyways i have new poly bushes in the rear and front of diff. so thats not the issue.

No sorry issue still there. I'm changing out the engine mounts this winter so time will tell if it will sort it out..

Question is will you still pass with those sport cats?

I think a lot of carbon pieces are like that unfortenately. My whifbitz cooling panel (in front of radiator) was kinda like that too. The carbon quality was really nice, but the fitment was not perfect. Some holes didnt line up. I had to grind a tiny bit of the front edges also. All in all im happy with it. It looks so damn nice. Seems like most of these pieces may be more for track cars? where shit doesnt matter that much

Dude just get rid of that crap. Noone wants them. Get your body shop to fill the gap and respray the bumper.

That's a nice feature no doubt.

I'm wondering what this sensor is also. My car is going in for emission testing on Monday. The second o2 sensor is not plugged in. And I'm wondering if it will affect emissions? Is it a temp sensor or a second o2?

Great! For the price they look tempting. Thanks

How are these blueprint discs compared to OEM?

Really? You are awesome dude Respect

ok thanks buddy

let me know if you will ship it. ill take it

congrats on crazy thread bump ! You have to bleed your master cylinder. easily done . disconnect the lines to the master cylinder/reservoir. have a helper press the brake pedal and hold it down, then block the two holes (where you disconnected the lines) with your fingers and have him release the pedal. Do this til you have no more air coming out. then bleed your brakes as usual.

Diff has been rebuilt. Propshaft has a lot of play in it when handbrake on and in neutral. But should be somewhat normal on these cars? I dont think the gearbox have been touched. car has 150k miles so gearbox is probably due for a service. But this thing was suddenly there after winter storage and diff rebuild. new poly mounts on diff front and rear. I guess the polys can make other mounts show there weaknesses? Will do a checkup under the car when i have time.

There is a lot of slop in the driveline. So sometimes i can hear a "clack" sound when letting off. But i think this clunking is something else. And no it does not sound good at all! I`ll have to get someone look or film the car from underneath while the car is on stands or on a ramp and check.

This not my video, but the sound is exactly the same. Its not there all the time, i need to push the clutch in quick for it to happen. So when taking of easy its not happening.

Its coming from the gearbox area.. not sure exactly where. Shouldnt be technique I think. I know how to drive a manual My buddy thought it was drive-shaft or the trans mount and not clutch related, hes a former car mechanic so he knows a thing or two. But I guess it could be a bunch of things. It wasnt there before I serviced the diff and changed to poly mounts tho. Its very annoying and have started to get on my nerves

So im having terrible clunking when i press my clutch in quick in 1st and 2nd. Its like when the driveline is loaded and deloaded quick it gives of this "clunk-clunk-clunk" . Sounds like something is loose or something. Diff just been overhauled and installed new poly diff mounts all over. Im thinking it could be the transmission mount? Im also having chattering/shuddering on takeoff. Running oem DM flywheel with south bend endurance stage 3. Im up for ideas! ? Have anyone tried the vibra technic mount? I dont want anymore vibration and sound in this car please thanks

thanks! did you put them inside the plastic holders (the ones one the inside of the cover) or on the outside? I recently replaced my return line and I didnt think it would fit inside there, so i ziptied it on the outside. Car was on jack stand in a terrible place so i had to make a temporary solution. I also have the hodge kit 6 an.

Did you guys fit them in the stock plastic holders and inside the stock "rail" that goes under the car?

looks great! Have you guys found a way to get that stock rubber coating off before painting?

Thanks. Are you talking about fuel lines? If so I'm changing out those with some braided ptfe lines. I was more concerned about the brake lines. Was under the car yesterday and took a look. it did look very tight back there over the subframe. Is it even possible to get pre bent brake lines in there without dropping subframe. My car is on axle stands in a very dusty and undfriendly garage atm.