Doublefacy

So today I managed to remove rear subframe on my driveway (sorry for messy driveway ). Probably could have taken more pictures, but not having bought gloves, my hands were quite dirty at all times Will try to describe the process. First, obviously, loosen your wheel nuts and jack up the car. I did not jack it up too high, on base level of axle stand about where chassis main under rail ends, which is high enough, if you lift higher you might need high jack to support subframe when unbolted. Then I removed brake disks and calipers, since they need to be disconnected from brakes lines. Once you disconnect brake lines, they do not interfere in further process of removal. To prevent braking fluid or oil to leak, you can use clamps or if remove caliper and there is nothing in between pistons, you press brake pedal all the way to floor and lock it in there with some bar against seat, so it stayed fully pressed in, then it should not leak anything as well. I had one clamp that i used on one side and used the pedal trick on other side. Clamps are potentially not good for brake lines. Then you need to remove exhaust. I got aftermarket exhaust - it bolts on with 2 bolts in center section, so it was pretty easy for me. Once exhaust is out off the way, we need to disconnect propshaft. That will also give us better access to handbrake cable junction. I haven't done this before so don't know if shaft could have been pushed back enough to slide off the diff center pin, but to make it easier i took off center support of driveshaft, so it slid out easily. 3 Bolts on diff side So center support is behind heatshield , which i removed as well and also there is a cross member/bar which needs to be removed - come on 10mm bolts nothing serious. Can see a center support bolts through the heat shield gap in next pic. Once thats done drive/prop shaft comes off In pic above i have already disconnected handbrake cables, but i took few pictures after to show how it links in. You also can see that center pin poking out from diff in pic above, so I dont know if you can leave driveshafts center support on and it would slide out as you remove subframe, didnt know how long it is and didnt want put any stress on parts and potentially damage something. Here are pics of handbrake cable T junction, pretending main cable from handbrake joins in middle. Once that's done , all it's left is ABS sensors. You disconnect them inside car behind rear speakers, I got no pic, but see pics earlier in this post. Then you just feed them through by pushing out grommet in body. See pic where red arrow points After all that time to remove subframe bolts, there are one 19mm in front and 4 12mm in rear on each side. I had bigger jack and i set it up to support it against diff itself since it seems heaviest part of whole thing. Had a friends to help balancing as i slowly lowered the jack. In one of my previous pictures you can see how i supported the diff. That's about it. With diff together it weighs from 80-100kg roughly. Wasnt easy to carry to garden, where all the treatment and dissemblance will happen. If have any questions, please ask. I can take extra pictures or check the sizes of bolts if interested.

Today I checked abs sensor plugs and actually its not too bad to access them. I messed up my finger the other day working with impact gun, so today i decided to give another day to heal. Tomorrow planning to take it all off. There is quite some space to go in with one hand and unplugging clip is straight forward - just press down on plastic retainer and it slides out. Like @chaoticentity posted pictures - all you need is to take off plastics at the back - comes on 3 screws and plastic clip. dead easy to access. Unplug the clip and press out grommet to feed the cable out under car. Will try to take as many pics as possible tomorrow of whole process and put them here

I will take pictures and post them, once its all done. At the moment I just got brake disks and callipers off - might put new disks on , resprayed callipers, but since rubber boot is in good condition and piston moves freely pressing with fingers, i will not refurbish them. I did refurbish front calipers, cause rubber was split. Will change hanbrake shoes as it took 2h to get brake disk off cause was catching on old worn out shoe (hanbrake released obviously) and ended up wd40 whole thing through the gaps in order to slide the disk off off. Obviously I haven't work on supra much so far and might not know trick of how better. I just wanted to take off as much as possible to leave subframe as light as i can , to have less struggle to handle it.

Arrrghhhh, I hoped for easy access Should have done this when i installed my new speakers and had all plastics off. I wished supra had them as easy as it is for my old golf where cable plugs in sensor. Are they going through the grommet in the boot ? How do i identify without getting under car checking where they go inside. Cause I rather unplug them before i jack up the car. Not a fan of getting in car while on axle stands. Thank you

Hi, My supra recently failed MOT and it says it has movement in upper rear control arm bushes. Since control arm itself is quite expensive, i decided to polybush whole rear suspension. I tried to remove the suspension parts and not much luck as bolts are properly seized and not easy to access and wouldnt want to damage something in process, plus upper control arm bolts are hard to access as they are. So i decided to remove whole subframe, get good access to all bolts - being able to use impact gun, or knock on a bolt with hammer to brake it loose. Also my suspension parts are bit rusty, car itself is undersealed and all good, but suspension and even subframe top side are quite rusty. So i wanted to wirebrush them all, rust treat them and respray them. My question in order to remove subframe completely - not just lower, I need to disconnect abs sensor and handbrake cable and obviously propshaft and remove exhaust. Where can i disconnect abs sensors, is it next to sensor itself or further down the cable under the car? I havent jacked up high enough yet to go under the car, I don't see any plugs nearby sensor- seems like cable just goes right in the sensor. I would not want to try to remove sensor cause i read they dont come out easy and if you break one they cost like £200 a piece. Also with handbrake cable, i saw video on youtube where someone had it already off and it looked like he disconnected them at T junction rather than at hub, cause i undid the bolts and that harder part of dust guard that holds hanbrake shoes in place is kind of in a way to get it out, wouldn't want to start bending it a bit if it can be disconnected easy further down the cable. Thank you.

Would you do it yourself? Is it easy enough to take it apart? Although visually they look ok. Almost no rust on piston heads. Braided hoses whould give me more firm pedal as they dont expand? Im just saving money for new house, so i rather not spend hunderds on refurbishing callipers by some garage, if its something i can do myself. Before your post i was thinking in my head, if all4 pistons slide back equaly easy in order to put new pads on, then i would leave it as is.

Thanks guys for so much responses. So the botom line is to get good pads and in regards of discs, oem is safe bet everything else is a bit of gamble. Just wonder where do you find brembo discs these days that is right size 323mm? And i might sound blond but where would be safe to source oem disks? Just never really bought much stuff for supra as i own it for less than 2 yr. In regards of old discs. One of my friends who appears to be mechanics, says that those spot occur when brakes are not broken in properly. Brake disks themselves dont seem to be worn much as they are still 30mm thick. But from darker color seems like they have been overheated or so. But then it had TRD pads which i assume are good. Just trying to understand why it all went bad. Would not want that to happen to new setup. It just that i got similar colored rear brakes on my golf, but my handbrake used to get stuck and i know for sure they got overheated many times.

Hi, Not that long ago i bought TT6 Supra, which is import, but has UK spec bigger 4 pot brakes. Brakes were ok for city drive but once i got out on open road and was braking at higher speeds , brakes were making vibration and strange rather loud noise. Hence I decided to change them + they looked like this: In regards of pads I would go with Potterfield R4-S pads, but if you got better suggestion , i'm keep my options open. Not sure about brake discs. Is there much difference in discs? I mean , being grooved or dimpled or just flat in terms of cooling pads? Just not sure what caused my current brakes go bad and develop those spots. They were grooved. I was thinking initially EBC disc, but hear lot of bad review on their pads , makes me wonder about their quality. Plus they not that cheap. has anyone had any experience with mtec brake disks? Not sure if mtec is same as mintex, but my golf gti has those mintex on and they work far better than my current supra brakes, which are obviously bit messed up. Basically my car is stock performance right now, not planning to modified too much. Might do some odd track day, but nothing major. So I'm more like looking for something fast street driving. My budget for disks and brakes is around £400. And i rather not wait 1 month for something to be delivered , as i got old ones taken off already. Cheers, Edgars

What did you do to fix it? As much as I could use key to open boot, which I honestly haven't tried as I'm used to fob on my other car and didn't even think of it. I really want to fix the release from inside. Didn't had a time to look at it today - will try to run some checks tomorrow.

Thank you all, did not expect so many responses in such a short time. Good to see Supra community strong I do have facelift model (2001). Will try to find that How To thread about boot release. Meanwhile will follow advice of stuffing something under lever Just out of curiosity, what makes it pop open then if not struts? Is it rubber seal around the boot? Can't see latch doing it. Will check cabling and see if latch itself moves freely to fully release boot lid.

Hi, I just bought supra and got this issue with opening boot lid. When I pull the lever inside the car, it seems like boot lid is not popping up enough to get through both positions on a latch. If I have someone to pull it up as I pull the lever - it opens fine, but wouldn't on it's own. If I'm all by myself , I can't open boot lid I was wondering if those could boot lid struts that might have lost gas and effectiveness over time, as I understand car has not been used all that much before me buying it. Although boot lid stays up pretty strong once opened. Are struts the ones responsible to pop it open or could there still be issues with latch being sticky?

Congrats on sell. If I was ever to buy an auto supra then this would have been the one Love the way car looks. If not a secret how much did you pay insurance considering single turbo? I know it's driver dependent, but lets say if I checked (without calling) insurance on stock twin turbo I get reasonable price (~600), but once I mention turbo conversion under modifications , insurance sky rockets to almost 8x of what I would pay for twin turbos.

Car looks absolutely amazing. Really like the color, don't get why most supras come in boring silver or white and not in colors like this. If wasn't automatic and that high millage, I would grab this one. And yes, it does help to have some engine and under car pictures GLWS!

Sorry for kinda stealing your thread, but which import company you're planning to use or would recommend? I'm after 6sp manual twin turbo as well, just want facelift with vvti. I think there not many those in UK as I understand they were produced only for Japan market. You said your friend selling supra, if that was vvti, I would consider price. There was one nice for sale on piston heads, but I missed it, someone else bought before I got chance to view.

Thank you, will try to get in touch with either one. Any ideas of how much they roughly charge for their services? This is kinda car I'm looking for: https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/toyota/supra/toyota-supra-rz-low-km-twin-turbo-manual-6-speed-amazing-condition/8631782 Just seems a bit too expensive, just wanted to know if it's worth money.

Totally agree great race. Bit sorry for Vettel, last two races haven't favored him. Regards RB crash - 100% Maxes fault, cause from Daniels's point if he threw a dummy and Max moved right, then he fully commits to left as rules say you cannt weave. And knowing that Daniel always brakes late for overtake, there was no way he could have backed out of that one. Honestly Max is way too agressive racing team mate. That earlier tire touch was his fault as well, luckily nothing happened then. As much as I believe he is talented, he messes up being all that suborn and hot headed- really needs to grow up. Lewis race was bit lousy as well today, but I like that he has become more patient and mature and picking fights wisely. It's better get some points than DNF like Max. Mercedes does seem to struggle with tire temperatures this year. Overall I love this year so much more fun watching as all top 3 teams are capable of winning races.

Hi, I've been looking around for quite some time waiting for the right supra to show up. Apparently summer is coming and more supras start to appear on market. I'm after facelift vvti twin turbo manual supra. I know they do not come cheap, hence i'm asking for help. Just wondered if there is someone competent in supras around London area who would be happy to do viewing with me for reasonable pay. It's not like buying new car you know that everything is new + you get warranty whatever. Paying 25k+ for 20yr old car I would want to make sure it's worth it. Cheers, Edgars

It all depends on area and police staff - some are nice some can be d**ks. I consider myself extra lucky so far as couple weeks ago I ended up running from police , unintentionally though. I was doing around 60mph in residential area and when they pulled me over, all I got was warning to slow down. Respect to those policemen, although it was 21:00 in the evening and they probably didn't want to do paperwork, but if they wanted I could have lost my license right there. It's just that when I pulled out on main road I did not notice police markings on a car coming down same direction. I pulled out in front of them and had a little bit of aggressive acceleration, at that point had no intention of racing. Then I went quite fast across double roundabouts which got their attention. In fact I was so quick across those roundabouts, I manage to build quite a gap between me and police car (didnt know at a time) , so I let of the gas and was doing 30. Next time I had quick look in mirrors, the bright headlights were right behind me. I was thinking who is this aggressive driver now trying to challenge me , so I was starting to push to shake them off. I was surprised how far they actually let me drive before pulling me over. We crossed 2 more roundabouts after me being in race mode. When they pulled me over it looked like they had fun too as they were oddly smiley and all. Just be nice to them and better not lie. If anything , they hate that the most.

First of all - what a great looking car. Haven't seen one like this for quite some time over winter. Been following forum for almost year , just subscribed as planning to buy one myself any time soon. Just looking for right one. If this was vvti, tiptronic or manual I would be running to bank to get money Regards pictures, only account owners can see pictures, but do not have to be club member. I sent the link to my friend and he could not see pictures, but I could being just logged in before subscription. Good luck with sale.

Appreciate your kindness It's not that I don't want manual it's just that my budget doesn't stretch that much to afford one as it looks like good turboed manual comes for 16k and above. I was thinking of tiptronic only cause it's somewhere between manual and automatic, but from what I hear automatic shifting is more responsive than tiptronic one. Just wondering is it whole box slower or it it just tiptronic mode. I meant if I use tiptronic box in auto mode, is it the same as any other regular (non-facelift) supra autobox? I noticed that tiptroninc comes only for facelift models and so does vvti. Just wondering is that some kind of personal preference that everybody chooses non-facelift models. Why not to modify facelift model from a start, rather than taking engine head from vvti? Will see if I dont have supra by October I might just go to SupraPod just to check it out as I've never been to proper car event

Well I don't have that much swag to blag a passenger ride, besides I'm new here and people don't know me , and I don't think anyone's doing favors these days

Thank you for welcoming well I sort of wanted my supra to be a bit punchy at low RPMS and as I understand vvti does just that. Obviously I got not experience driving either one of them , so may be someone can advise on what is the difference, is it really noticeable? I mean considering vvti does give you little bit more low end torque, I was wondering why I haven't seen any vvti engine convertion to single turbo. I read somewhere that vvti is lot harder to map in. Is that the reason. Cause considering single turbos always have a little bit of lag, then vvti should help to overcome it.

Hi there, My name is Edgars and finally I feel like it's time to chase my dream car. So far I have owned golf mk4 tdi mapped to ~220 bhp. So going supra route would be big step up and probably its better not to go with highly modified one in regards of performance. Currently I'm thinking of having Twin turbo, vvti engine, tiptronic. My budget would be around 13k. I guess not enough for manual so tiptronic seems to be good compromise. I've never really driven autobox , so I wanted to ask if you guys could share experience having tiptronic. I read somewhere that it is not that convenient to use those buttons on steering wheel for shifting. What are your thought and is it something worth having it? I got few other questions , but I guess this is not the right section for asking them. Is "Supra chat" where I ask some general question about supras? Thank you and see you around