Bladerider

We are further away in Colchester, But we work closely with a great guy on our restorations if that gives you a second option. We did the Mk1 Capri 3.0GT in Sebring Red that was featured in Aprils Classic Ford last month !! J.

As for Pistons then Wiseco Heavy Duties are hard to beat imho CP have a very thin edge where the valve relief is which Im not a fan of.

MAG engines are ok Ive dealt with them on cheap stuff before and the kit is the same as Blue Print, Febi etc Not sure I'd want to risk a 2J crank from them though lol Bridegway are possibly a good halfway house if you fancy blowing a few quid on a forged crank !!

Oh, For sure there are plenty of ruined ones, just like there used to be a ton of Supras (Skylines too) with gull wing doors, Veilside front bumpers and god awful weak fitment wheels with cheap tyres and a shopping list down the door of manufacturers that are either not on the car or at best the stickers came with a dumpvalve, gauges, and spark plugs lol There are also a lot of pretty serious Evos of all denominations that have had a lot of money spent that are very capable on road. Fewer Scoobs like that but even then we see them with a more serious kind of owner these days, now the numpties have moved back to Golfs and Fords lol

LOL You're mad. The Lancer Register is one of the biggest clubs in the UK Has run its own Sprint Championship and has for many years had huge presence at all the UK shows. Evo's are generally good, solid, bulletproof if looked after but need quite a bit of mechanical maintenance and people that know them to do them justice. Get one and take it to Gary haywood at APT and never look back. J.

1J and 2J inlets are different.

Non-competes mean nothing if you really wanna get serious and go to court over it. Hence why companies that such clauses would be worthwhile to tend to go down the long notice period route as that actually is enforceable, even if they get you out the building immediately they will effectively pay you garden leave until the notice period is up - Formula1 is a good example of this where they typically have a 1year notice for technical staff to safeguard developments for the following years car. She can do what she likes pretty much. J.

Not sure if thats aimed at me, But its in a manual drift/track car. Pretty simple in many respects. Bosch 82mm DV5 throttle, 350z pedal, Link ecu, and wire it up. Advantages are idle compensation, potential for more accurate boost and control implementation for track work, throttle progression can be mapped, amongst others. Wiring is easy - 6 to TB = motor +ve and -ve, TPS +ve and -ve, and Sensor 1 & 2.........for the pedal the 6 are basically +ve, -ve and sensor for each of the two position sensors in the pedal. J.

Just to add options; Julian at Garage D Paul at JDM Garage Saaj at JapUsedParts All have reliable and regular suply of 2Js

No, But Im just doing it myself on my 2JZ Its pretty straight forward J.

Call Martin Battye at MB Automotive. He's an arrogant arse, but he does know what he's doing, is a Syvecs specialist and is near Huntingdon I think so might even be able to come to you. J.

Just thrown one away last month !! Had two valves punch through it, amongst other damage lol

LOL That car has a lot of baggae attached I believe !!

Nick, A VERY rough guide; On 6 cylinder engines on pump fuel your horsepower goal roughly equals injectors size at 90-100% duty So for 600bhp a 600cc injector is flat out For 750bhp a 750cc injector is flat out Obviously every engine and tune varies slightly, and you dont want to run them flat out anyway, so with that in mind you would build in a little headroom and for 750bhp a 1000cc injector should be comfortable at 75-85% duty Because E85 is primarily ethanol it needs roughly 50% more fuel to reach your horsepower target, so your 1000cc injector would then need to be 1500cc, add to that the fact that you would probably find a bit more power available safely (which is why people use E85 in the first place) with a touch more boost then you can see why ID make 1700cc injectors for their previously 1000cc injector customers !! ID or ASNU would be my recommendation, personally I prefer ID.

Well, My understanding was always that the vanes spiralled outwards with the direction of rotation so hotter gases were "flung" out the disc, hence why brake air guides usually direct cooler flow towards the centre of the disc to get "sucked" through the vanes. Grooves are academic and are only there to deglaze and break gas build up.

You can do it, Certainly depends on many factors, primarily how deep the seats are for the nuts/bolts !!

Yep, Flatter spoke designs often have trouble clearing bigger calipers, case in point - the pretend 3piece Rota Kyushu rims wouldn't clear my Wilwood 6pots on my drift car without at least a 12mm spacer. So wheels like those XXR which are tryoing to look like Work Equips will have the same problems the Equips do with not clearing larger calipers, suck it and see usually although some dealers like Driftworks can send you a spoke design "cross section" you print on paper and cutout to see if its going to be feasible or not.

225/235 will be fine on a 9.5J Ignore most the people on here (not shawn) - they will still believe in internet myths about tyres and fitment get on driftworks and speak to people with actual experience of what they're doing !!!

Great that someones took the effort Just a shame its such a confusing way its been explained lol Offset is simple Its just the relationship of the rear hub mounting face and the centreline of the wheel. Positive offset moves the mounting face outwards toward the face of the wheel Negative does the opposite and moves it inwards towards the inside edge This has the effect of moving the inner and outer edges of the wheels outward for a lower or negative offset, accompanied with that sexy deep dish or concave look. Or inwards for a flat and boring style as the Supra tends to suffer from with standard ET's All you do is start with the width of the wheel, halve it is the centreline = Zero offset ET, on an 8J rim this means 4" to each lip (actually its slightly more as wheel widths are measured to the inner edge of the lip where the tyre beads), if it was a +25 et the you'd have 3" to the outside and 5" to the inside using the rule of thuimb that 25mm=1inch, keep going up and eventually the inner lip will foul the strut on the inside. Go too far the other way and the outer edge will extend past the bodywork and you'll rub tyres and paint. As said, you just start with stock rims and ET, measure roughly where you want to be and add or subtract accordingly. It gets more confusing when also going up widths of wheels, and then when you are getting good you can start to add tyre stretch, geometry and other tricks to get that deep set of Works rims looking HellaFlush !!!

The classifications for businesses is confusing, But for Joe average you just work on 4.5% duty on car bits and vat at 20% These are applied to the costs ONCE LANDED so include the shipping and handling required to get them to the UK. Taking your parts as an example... Your £500 worth of parts will need to be shipped (lets say its £100 to make it easy) = £600 landed 4.5% import duty on that adds £27 = £627 20% vat on this now adds £125.40 = £752.40 The only variable will be if you get the old "You need to pay duty" letter from the courier, always with RM/Parcelforce, sometimes with others like DHL, which is usually £12.00 effectively as an admin charge just to tell you that they have worked out what you already knew !! hth J.

I'd be impressed to see a dyno plot with 1.5bar boost on an XS T61 at 2500rpm !!

Yep, GTX3582 is too big and hence laggier for what OP wants I think the Scooby guys get good results with EFR8374 As for mine - the "big turbo" will be another Owens customised GTX3794HTA with nitrous and every trick I can throw at it lol - should be 850+ and full spool by 4000rpm, and with full V-band its a straight swap for the smaller turbo when we are doing smaller, tighter courses. J.

WOW !! Dont think you need to go anywhere near that big if 450bhp is your target !! I'll put it into perspective with my own turbo on a much smaller engine - Owens billet HTA wheeled GTX3073r made over 500bhp at 1.5bar on a 2.0 engine with full boost by 4000rpm !! I have kept it and will become my "zero lag" option on my forged 2JZ build - should be good for 550bhp top whack and full spool by 2800rpm maybe sooner if I cheat lol Get a log manifold if spool is your target, nothing bigger than a 3076 with a billet wheel, little bit of work on the head, dont go mad with cams and you should see it fully on song by 3-3500rpm. J.

T04z 2JZ sound lovely, Not quite as good as T51r - which is possibly the best sounding turbo ever made lol - but still bloody lovely !! Enjoy it, Ive been lucky enough to see and hear quite a few up close lol