Fulcrum2000

Long story short engine had black death so needed pistons reboring making plus half ones the only way to go so thought I may as well go forged whilst I am doing it as they are better, stronger and fit the plus half. UK cams and JDM cams are almost identical according to my mechanic and many people on here and JDM cams are almost impossible to get now. It was a choice of one and here we are. Its a stock ECU as I'm only going BPU I dont want to go any higher so getting into ECUs is surely unnecessary, just maybe needs a remap? Why are you concerned about the uK cams T2 with forged pistons, have I missed something? I tok a lot of advice on this and everyone said it was the way to go?

Thanks this is superb info, so I would imagine the gauge is right but the mixture is lean, I guess a tuning company can remap it to 14.7 is that how it works or (excuse my constant ignorance) is there a manual way of doing this myself? I did indeed have UK cams and plus 1 forged pistons etc put in and to my knowledge the mapping etc is stock. I guess making it slightly richer will increase power surely?

I much prefer the auto its silky smooth and fast as heck at BPU, the manual is just too much effort and money for the slight difference you're going to feel. because of the 25 year old margin the 93s are hitting which frees up more export opportunities and the new model arriving I expect Supe prices to jump another 5k or so in the coming year. Most experts seem to be agreeing with this online too. My auto cost me 8k 2 years ago and needed shedloads of work but now you're talking 16k if you're lucky so consider a cheap Supe that needs work is actually a better buy than one 7-8k more as long as the engine is sound. Mine wasnt

Hi All Sorry to complain but why does the search box rarely work on here for me, making me post lots of things I could search for myself on this wonderful resource? For instance AFR brings up nothing yet I've posted several threads about this and I know others can find it?

Hi All So I am nearing the end of my full BPU and engine rebuild and have hit a couple of snags maybe more knowledgeable people than me can help with: 1) I have my AEM AFR all installed now but with a half bpu car at 1bar (Restrictor and CW FCD installed now) it seems to be running at about 16.25 on idle which I think is lean does it need a set up or is that ok? When on WOT once I lift off the gauge goes to 4 minus symbols for a couple of seconds then starts reading again, is this normal too, I guess the difference between WOT and none is so rapid the gauge cant keep up for a couple of seconds? It was installed by a tuning company so i am figuring it is tickety boo install wise. 2) The final stage of my BPU is the HKS EVC 6 IR Boost Controller. This is mostly installed (and off) but my mechanic says it needs an rpm point and he cant find one stable enough, he says he can go into the back of the rev counter if he has to but doesnt want to and is currently waiting on another tuner to come back to him witht he best way forward, have eny of you experienced this and where is the best stable rpm signal on a TT Auto to plumb into? I think once this is done it will be full BPU but cant quite jump that last hurdle without help from you guys on here hopefully!

It does but searching NGK or spark plugs didnt bring it up for me or I wouldnt have asked, cheers for the help guys!

Hi All Anyone know off hand what the best spark plugs are for a full BPU JDM TT? I thought it was NGK BKR7E Iridiums but wanted to check as when I put that in at the auto parts place they're copper? I know the standard gap is right out of the box but wanted to check the exact model number before I buy a set

Ok so overnight after fitting this entirely disappeared and has never come back - is there a 'settlign in period' for headlights, has anyone seen this before with theirs when fitted? Hopefully it will stay away!

So basically from what I am hearing its a bit of a 'special' design and is just unavoidable? Does anyone have a pic of these vents to see if they're blocked in any way as it seems to be the cause of it but I dont know where they are to check them?

What's nct I meant

What's not and I assume it's very temporary

Just out of interest if I took a bulb out and hairdryered inside would that improve it or make it much much worse....

I can only imagine during the packing someone stuck their finger through the bulb hole somehow sounds about right, I'll take a bulb out and see what I can do tomorrow as another novel thing about my particular Supra the previous owner put in higher powered bulbs only on one side, no idea what that was all about but no I can actually get some light through and dont have knackered plastic lights I can see. They have different part numbers on them apparently.

I've just noticed there is a fingerprint INSIDE the new headlight, how the hell is this even possible? Do you think its a factory error? I got these from WB so I'm staggered.

I was told the lights have venting to stop this anyway, if I seal them wont the moisture just be in there forever? Are they a factory sealed unit or can you get them open if I cant solve this?

I now this has been covered before but perhaps differently as I have just bought and had fitted a brand new set of genuine Toyota glass headlights to my JDM 93 TT, and they are immediately misting at the bottom of both lights. How can this possibly be, the best part of a grand and I have misted lights. I got genuine ones, left them in the box till fitting then got a mechanic to fit them properly and they still misted within a couple of hours. Is this just a design fault or can I actually resolve this in any way?

But facelifts have different wiring ie in the inidcators, how do they fit on non facelift pre 96 Jap cars?

I want glass on a spec pre face tho is that a thing

Hi All I thought now I've had my Supras engine rebuilt I would treat it to some new glass headlights. trouble is mine is one of the truly old dinosaur Jap spec 1993 models, ie pre facelift. Do they actually make glass lights for my era does anyone know? WB only stocks facelift onwards and that means buying the indicator gear for it too doesnt it as its incorporated.

As an update, totally rebuilt, forged pistions plus point 5, and purring like a dream,you can just feel the smoothness now all that black death has been removed and the damage repaired. Cant go above 3000 rpm yet till the 500 mile run in is complete but then my hks is going up to 1.2 and it will be a super Supra. Thanks for all the support on here guys, if anyone is interested all in it cost about 4.5k for a full rebuild and forged parts. Well worth it.

I checked with the new rulings and according to their wording I should be fine on decat due to age (pre 96) and no emissions levels listed for mine as its an import, so according to the wording to my eyes they can only do a standing idle non cat test, I will of course keep people informed but this is how it reads direct from gov.uk. I spoke to my mechanic who agreed with this but said even though they cant change my emissions requirement they could go at me for sound. So, two quesitons for all on here. 1) Just in case has anyone fitted a dummy cat and does anyone know where I can get one for a 3 inch system. I have my old exhaust system and can put an old cat on with a converter but just wondered as a permanent measure f a dummy exists? I can find them overseas but not in the UK. Is the standard exhaust 2.5? I can convert to 3 and refit one cat temporarily if so. 2) Has anyone used a muffler, ie a restrictor that goes in the back of my exhaust to restrict it from 4 inch to a muffled 2 inch and drastically reduces db. I have a stainless one coming but wondered if they are effective to get through a test?

So as an update my block was rebored (it takes forever to get an engineering company to do that round here) and new pistons at plus one and all gubbins are here, only downside is we're waiting on a set of inlet valves which are the only remaining item left before y car can be fully rebuilt. So couple of questions: 1) what the hell is an inlet valve and why can we only get them from the USA now and are they expensive? 2) Has everyone heard about the new exhaust MOT rules that have just come into place, all third party exhausts (regardless of car age) are apparently going to be tested for Db and its a failure if they breach it. I have a 3 inch decat system going out to the wide blue yonder at 4 inches, am I liely to have a fail coming my way when I'm rebuilt and therefore need testing immediately

So we're good to go if I can find UK spec. Now I at least have more options, thanks Mike. Anyone got any out there? I hav emoney waiting if the price is right. And a mechanic waiting for that matter too....

I've been told UK TT cams work in a jdm and are only slightly different, anyone confirm this?

Does anyone know if UK TT cams work in a non VVTI JDM TT fine?