Fulcrum2000

Hi All Just thinking about fitting strut braces and have been told by several people the rear ones do nothing on a Mk IV - is this the case? I'll go for a flat TRD style on the front but I see there's precious few even available for the back which seems to indicate they do about as much as a vote for Brexit did.

Yes these are good points, I've heard many people say as an actual driving car full BPU at early 400s is about as good as it gets as a compromise between power and smoothness and of course no lag which makes fun driving possible. I am in two minds to see if I can get the best possible TT power output as I intend to keep my Supe forever situation permitting and just going BPU and then thinking about handling and laying the power down and leaving the engine at full BPU. I have been down the big single path years ago and yes you get that boost but it was clicky and jerky and by the time it kicked in the other car was a dot, and then you caught back up again whereas the twins seem to have the power there at the right time and of course cornering with predictable twin power across the rev range is a delight but I guess we all have that burn for more hp. So do we agree 1.2 1.25 or 1.3bar is the safe max on BPU? If I tell my tuner to put it up to whichever and see if I like it then maybe get active suspension and see if I need more power that would be the best option? Also I heard the HKS accesses both first and second turbo for better power and acceleration which is why I got it, is this true and anyone have the HKS EVC VI IR like me to confirm this is possible to set up?

Ok I guess with UK TTs and bigger injectors and a piggyback I am looking at getting mid to late 500s then on a stock autobox? That would be fine for me. I'm getting a lot of difering info on the safe limit for BPU too, a lot of people are saying 1.2 is absolutely safe whereas some people seem to run about 1.25 which the car will naturally spike up to 1.3 briefly then settle down to 1.2-1.25, I assume this is the bst approach when you have a fancy dandy BC? Or should 1.2 be considered the absolute ceiling for safety? - - - Updated - - - Ok I guess with UK TTs and bigger injectors and a piggyback I am looking at getting mid to late 500s then on a stock autobox? That would be fine for me. I'm getting a lot of difering info on the safe limit for BPU too, a lot of people are saying 1.2 is absolutely safe whereas some people seem to run about 1.25 which the car will naturally spike up to 1.3 briefly then settle down to 1.2-1.25, I assume this is the bst approach when you have a fancy dandy BC? Or should 1.2 be considered the absolute ceiling for safety?

The tuner said there were 2 boxes in TTs (although maybe he meant one was an aftermarket one) one which is about 500 and the other capable of handling much more power. I had a single conversion in one of my previous supe and whilst you get more power they are much more jerky in day to day driving so I wondered what power I could get out of a JDM block with US/UK TTs fitted? At the moment when the BC is dialled in I reckon I will be somewhere around 420 as all my mods have been bought to be the best for power including 3 inch decat, 1 bar ring, CW FCD, Tein Adjustables, and my engine has been fully rebuilt and bored out to plus point 5 so is basically new and the best it can ever be. If I could get to 550-600 on Twin Tubs that would be amazing but not sure if I would be aiming too high.

Hi All So I'm nearly full BPU now, decatted, FCD'd, 3 inch exhausted and have a HKS VI EVC IR BC which is going to be programmed to take it to the final 1.25 bar shortly by a tuning company. My car is a JDM 93 TT Auto. I've always been told the limits on BPU on JDM is the turbos, so if I acquire a set of UK TTs or US TTs can I then just increase the boost more to their safe levels as they arent ceramic? Or is there something else stopping me? I cant think of anything and I also have CW brake upgrade too so I will be able to stop. I know finding a set of twins will be hard but I should be able to do it if I search long enough or dont they fit on my block or something? Also I've been told several times on here the BHP limit on a Supe Auto Box is about 500 - 550 but I recently spoke to someone who said TTs were fitted with two different boxes in the course of their lives, one handling this much and another which could handle waaaaaaaay more. How do I tell which one I have and what is the other called if I have the lower one?

I've just booked in my Supe for a different mechanic to fix my still leaking RMS and he offers the service to recoat dashboards so I will see if he can do it professionally then, thanks so much for the idea

I'm all original 93 so it should be fine, thanks I will try this. I've heard about this plastidip stuff but not tried it, one of my friends has done their wheels on their MX5 with it so I can ask advice on how to use it

Is there a product or service that removes all the scratches then? I've tried polishing it and cleaning it countless times - it looks like Freddie Krueger has been using it. There's a bit on my dash the same that I'd like to be rid of too if there's any way of doing it?

Hi All Does anyone know who owns this silver supra with the reg R172 BCH? I've seen it in my local town recently at a mechanics and wondered how they were getting on with whatever repair or upgrades are being done as I need a new mechanic option locally!

Looks like its not available worldwide, seems all the interior trim pieces are almost universally unavailable now for the Supes

Still cant find this part number, can anyone help?

Hey I'm trying to find some part numbers and need the number for that bit of trim that goes around the electric window switches on the drivers door, on the plans it just says refer to diagram 74 01 and thats just the sun visors? Mine is perhaps the most worn part of my interior for some reason and I want to get a new one. My AC was completely broken when I bought it which perhaps explains the over use of windows! All fixed now though Anyone know the number for this bit?

Just to confirm they are the same fro JDM and UK spec? I cant see any reason at all why they wouldnt be but I've found a UK spec one now a bit cheaper and just wanted to ask the gurus on here first!

Its totally kaput I'm afraid

Hi All Anyone have a rear crash bar for a JDM TT (93)? Mine has all but rusted and if anyone has one kicking about I will happily buy it. I think its called a crash bar, its the big metal piece under the back bumper that runs the width of the car.

Thanks so much yes other than being pretty much perfectly central that is exactly how both the one I put on and the one that came off have. So it is a weakness of the car (and in fact any car of my kind of age). I've tried the sleeve available to cover over this and it actually increased the leak slightly. I spoke to Chris Wilson and went back to the mechanic to check it had no other likely causes that Chris said were likely like baffle plates with carbon in etc and its all been done to the same standard as he suggested so it comes down to whether or not I can find some way of making the seal, well, seal. I guess there isnt a high tension one anywhere does anyone know? I know there is a FMS one which is upgraded but I dont know of a RMS one?

If you remember Swampy it was me who bought cams from you for thisbut yes I just want someone to do it properly, if you're too busy I understand but is there anyone out there who works on Supes in my area?

Hi All I've had a full rebuild on my 93 TT when it had the 'black death' and had a RMS leak ever since. It didnt leak before and the mechanic said the recon crank has a groove in it where it protrudes form the block and is allowing the RMS to leak. I dont know if this is nonsense and all cranks have this groove but it has been back 5 times to the mechanic who rebuilt it and its still leaking. I then took it to the best mechanic in town, an independent but who doesnt specialise in Supras, he had a go at it and it still leaked. So whilst I know the person who rebuilt it should do it I am sick of it and will happily pay someone who has experience to fix it once and for all. Is there anyone in the Lincolnshire area willing to do this? Also anyone who has had their crank out, can you confirm whether yours has a groove around it on the part the RMS goes on or not? This is a serious request from a desperate Supe owner, if you know of a quality mechanic in my area I'd love to know.

This is clearly a bit of a silly idea the more I consider this. Ok so I need to find a good mechanic in my area (Lincolnshire) whi can do this RMS roperly. Thanks for the sage advice chaps I'll post a new thread looking for this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KXN3YQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=themms-20&linkId=ff7c2f8788c3166a0eb47865df397042&language=en_US This seems to be the universally recognised 'best one' and was what I was thinking of using. I know I'm very wary of using them too but after five trips back to a mechanic and then another to a different one with no success its getting really tiring now. i know its the crank slight groove causing it (the crank used for the rebuild was not new as I couldnt get a new one and had a slight groove which must be allowing the RMS to leak) but after 4 re seats, 2 new seals, a sleeve and a bigger seal its still eaking slightly. Not much but enough to knacker the drive

Has anyone used any oil stop etc as I have a very slight RMS leak which my mechanic has had back 5 times after the rebuild and its still leaking. Are they safe on a BPU car they have amazing reviews.

Hi All Going to regas my AC myself and have the right gas coming as well as a tube with a monitor built in but before I do, the port under the H Cap is the one to use yes? I know its 750ml etc but Just wanted to make sure I have the right aperture (oo-er)

I cant without jacking etc but will if you feel it helps. But it's dead centre in line with the rear of the front wheels. I've seen the groove on the rear crank it's all the way round central on the metal and maybe 1mm deep if that helps

We've tried. The full story is its had a rebuild and the only problem is the oil leak its since been back 5 times to the mechanic who rebuilt it and once to a different one, he's tried re-seating it several times and when this didnt work we sent for a sleeve to cover it and a larger seal which filled the entire space but it still leaks, I'm not sure what else I can try.

Ok so as an update it turned out I didnt listen properly when the mechanic was talking (there's a surprise) and it was actually my Rear crank seal leaking, not the FMS, so after buying replacement parts which were wrong of course, we then bought a sleeve and new stronger seal to cover the groove but its still leaking. Its not much, a few drops a day, but has anyone had a rear crank seal leak and did you beat it? Because its caused by a small groove in the crank the only way I can think of is either another rebuild with a new crank if I can find one or using those oil leak treatments for the oil? Anyone ever tried those, they seem to have rave reviews but a bit wary tobe honest. Its wrecking my new paved drive!