Fulcrum2000

Ok so I've owned my Supe for about 3 and a half years and for the entire time I've had it about 80% of the time when you set off it has a smallish whistle up to about 15mph then stoops, its not serious I know but I feel like its annoyed me for long enough now and I want to be rid of it. I have an auto so you have to put your foot on the brake to start the car and I suspect it is brake related, I installed Chris Wilson fast road Pads and thought it would go away at this point but it just stayed constant. Has anyone else had anything like this and if so how did you cure it? Just to clarify, lets say you are at a junction with the brake on, you let it go and pull out and the whistle starts until about 15mph then goes, you brake for traffic and if it goes under 15 it comes back almost all of the time, there's the odd time it doesnt and it doesnt seem related to brakes warming up or anything. Also when it is doing it if you take it into neutral and let the car glide it just continues and it never starts before the brakes are used ie sitting on the drive at idle speed. Any ideas? The only other thing I can think to try is to find a large hill, stop the car and run it down with the engine off to see if it is absolutely brakes but there are obvious safety issues with that plan so I thought I would ask before I did any more 'testing'.

Hi Burna Thanks for your info thats helpful, just to pick you up on something though, it wasnt me saying the EBC was faulty, it was actually installed and immediately showed pressure and then returned to RSpec who bench tested it and showed the head unit was indeed faulty. I'm just being honest and can forward the email from them if you would like in case anyone feels these things are fool proof, it already had if memory serves over three bar on even when not installed to a car, just powered! I do appreciate everyone's help on here and totally get what you are saying and it is the traditional approach to have one controller and when life returns to normal I may remove the manual and go to just one controller. But if anyone is interested far from ignoring advice on here, this thread made me think so yesterday afternoon I took it back to the tuner to make sure all was well. After I put the manual up to a safe position under BPU and running my set up when duty is 10 on the Gizzmo first turbo hits 0.78 and overall pressure is 1.12 according to him - if the duty is increased on the Gizzmo first turbo pressure is increased slightly, and the manual increases second turbo pressure and with no BC the car hits 0.95 on restrictor ring which is all I think perfect? I'm glad I had someone check these pressures though and thanks to everyone for telling me to have it checked it was a wise decision. Now to get some actual driving done!

Well as I say I'm no guru either but whatever the situation, as mine has a standalone boost gauge showing total boost and never goes above 1.15 then that is as safe as having any other method of BPU. And to be honest I spend more time looking at the boost gauge than the speedo (or often the road) and will do until I have had a good few miles on all weathers just in case. I have all the precautionary gauges installed unlike many so if something is amiss I would know unlike a lot of people who dont feel AFRs etc are necessary on BPU. I agree they objectively arent essential but they do show you what is happening more than not having one. When all this madness clears I will seek out a specialist and just get them to give it a check over too though for the belt and braces and if I did get any kind of overboost I would crank it down to 1bar until I could get another persons help. If there's anyone in the lincolnshire area that ever wants to earn a few quid checking it over let me know. As to your car Scooter I think the proof's in the pudding mate, whatever we can all surmise, you set your car up in the way you describe and have driven it for a long period with no ill effects whatsoever so I think that is as good a rubber stamp of a safe set up as anything else.

Hi Scooter My grand vision was to have two boost controllers one on each to fettle the interchange (manual on first, Gizzmo second) but the way I got the car back from the tuner has been a more sensible approach then the one I suggested I think, basically under 3500 the first turbo boost seems to be altered by altering the Gizzmo but only slightly but the actual boost read on the Gizzmo is combined boost in line with the standalone boost gauge. So when I alter the manual BC it affects the second turbo and the overall boost is creeping up to where I want it to be each tweek on that I perform. The boost on the first turbo doesnt seem to be affected at all by the manual controller. I assume the Gizzmo is only acting upon the first as even with large duty changes the boost only climbs tiny amounts which would ring true with the set up of the car, if it were acting upon the second more 'free' turbo the differences in duty would allow me to go above and beyond the 1.2 which it doesnt. In fact if the manual is at minimum the differences in overall boost between 10 duty and 90 duty is maybe 0.1 to 0.2bar which indicates its getting that from the first turbo Long story short basically it seems its plumbed in such a way that I put a tweak on the Gizzmo the first turbo creeps up a little, I adjust the manual, the second turbo does or perhaps they both do slightly and the Gizzmo reads total pressure all the time. I've had both turbos fully checked over a couple of weeks back before I had this put in and they were fine too so thankfully the HKS I had to remove didnt do any harm.

I must admit I am of the same opinion, I am not mechanically minded but one thing which many people on here have told me ad infinitum is boost controllers cannot lower boost, only raise it. So an EBC is not able to govern the boost in any way as a ceiling if the wrong instructions are put into it or it in any way fails. So common sense tells me considering there's two posters on here which have had faulty EBCs if you have one of these it is technically possible to fail and overboost whereas a restrictor ring and locked out manual (mine locks out with a crank and a deep grub so immovable once set) simply cannot fail unless we were to go down the path of lines failing etc which could happen on any set up. I'm the same as Scooter and am happy to be corrected but to me its science that simple pieces of steel and manual locked out valves are infinitely more reliable (but by definition less flexible) than controllers with electronic circuitry and more tech and moving parts that have potential to fail. Back in the 90s when I was young and stupid (as oppose to now where I'm older and stupid) the sides of the road werent littered with turbo cars on fire and teens hanging out of them groaning and we only had manuals then. And better music, and worse haircuts. But just to reiterate as the OP, what I am doing is being done very safely and very slowly, and my car is probably the most monitored BPU on the road - it has for instand a separate boost gauge to all the rest of the setup so I can always see overall boost and if I exceed it, it also has a top of the range AFR gauge so I can always see the mix is within parameters, the EBC is perfectly measuring boost against the boost gauge and I am going to set it up so it is way within parameters and can only reach 1.15 just at the very limits of WOT giving me leeway, then when it gets cold I will check it again and bobs my proverbial relation hopefully. But again, if I am doing anything wrong let me know, but if anyone answering could just look at the set up I have just described and comment only on that instead of just telling me manual boost controllers come out of satans rectum and I should be taking it 500 miles to Whiffbitz that would be so helpful as I appreciate that manual boost opinions aside, you are more knowledgeable than me in an engineering sense.

I agree it would be nice to get it seen to be a Supra specialist but after you try and find one (I live in Lincolnshire) it seems they are about as common as fans of Gary Glitter. And if I do find one within 100 miles of me they either offer to do it when they can and never ring back or refer me to somebody else who then turns me down anyway. Supras are cars very few mechanics want to work on now, I'm not sure when everyone on here last tried to follow this advice and find one but I have been living the reality of this for 3 and a half years and been through 9 or 10 mechanics, 3 tuning companies and Fennsport, all of which have failed ultimately or refused to work on them beyond a point. I've been trying to get 1.2bar BPU and just have the rider of removing the harsh kick between turbos for so long now its crazy. I appreciate everyone's advice on here dont get me wrong but my strength is in business, not engineering so I have to be led by those who know and it has led me to this path. If anyone in my area wants to help I am happy to pay them.

Yes I agree this is why I am doing a very gradual series of runs, each day I need to go on post runs for my business so I increase it by one click then when the car is warmed up I do a run and then increase it by one click until I will eventually hit 1.1-1.15 and as we can go to 1.2 safely I will check in winter if it is still under that at all times and if not click it down. I'm being super careful, I've done ten runs in ten days and I'm still only at 1.08 now on WOT and when I do reach it it has a locking mechanism for safety too. I also had my turbos inspected before this and they are healthy too. Sorry. About. The. Long. Sentence.

I agree Scooter I know they can be abused and hurt cars but when they're not in the hands of the young and impetuous I'm not really sure why they would be any more or less harmful to a car then an EBC - in fact I have an EBC too and they're acting in tandem perfectly but when we installed the Gizzmo the first time it came up as bar even when at idle and rather than the install it was the EBC itself that turned out to be faulty, so in my case EBCs have been shown to be a tad less reliable than manuals but I doff my cap to everyone on here who has far more knowledge. I've had manual ones on 4 or 5 cars and never had any issues ever though but if anything untoward happens I will post it on here so we can all have a good finger pointing session I promise!

Dont worry its plumbed in perfectly and theres's an EBC on it too, I'm slowly creeping it up in tiny increments to 1.15 then I am going to lock it down hopefully forever. Then I will be on here looking for new panels for my boot, all of which seem to have broken under the last owners hamfistedness.

Phew thanks for that

So should this be plug be plugged into anything under my Supe bonnet? Nothings ever been taken out whilst I owned it and nothing seems to not function but it certainly looks very purposeful

Yeah I know what you are saying I had a Mk 1 and a Mk 2 Limited Edition 1990 MR2 and they were damn comfy, especially the 1990. It had an engine like an eggshell though unfortunately unlike the Supe. Did anyone else accidentally drip oil into the alternator when filling up an MR2, it was placed so crazily it was unavoidable for me or maybe I just had some kind of spasm.

What he said.

Hi No I still want sequential rather than paralell but in my opinion the Supras 'feel nicest' when in stock but the BPU is a good safe level of power and I wanted the best of both worlds so for the sake of stumping up for another BC to make it perfectly set up for this was a great idea I frankly nicked off Scooter on here! I dont know if its an age thing but I always found the judder between two turbos at BPU to be unpleasant. I have driven big singles and its the same feeling for me on those too, great power but not smooth power which for me is important and in stock I feel the Supra has the smoothest power delivery of any car I've ever owned (I've had nearly 50 by the way!) so if I could emulate that but in the 400s for HP that would be about the most perfect option I thought. If anyone wants to know how it turns out I can keep them informed I hope to have it all keyed in in the next few days. After that its finishing off the active suspension project then I think it will all be hunting for cosmetic items to bring my old girl up to spec and a respray. I appreciate I've probably annoyed a few people on here with my ignorance and also made some choices which more capable people feel are wrong but if you knew my back story with this car you would understand why I have done what I did to make this car finally BPU in this way. I've owned the car for just under 3 and a half years and due to unreliability (including a full rebuild and many thousands of pounds worth of other faults, full restoration underneath etc etc etc) I have managed to drive it for less than 2000 miles in this time. Enough was enough and it was time to make some choices to bring this car back to life even if it meant losing a bit more money on ditching the HKS VI etc and I just want to thank everyone for putting up with me. Now I just need to find someone with internal panels and plastics to replace all the faulty ones of those I have in my boot, that will be interesting. I havent had the rear suspension plastic covers in since I bought the car as they're so broken!

Hi Sorry I know what you are saying and I know traditionally BPU relies on one controller not two, but I ave gone down this path because I want to get the first turbo slightly up from normal in order to avoid the 'judder' of hitting turbo two which my last BPU supra had (I've had three including a MK III) and one of the members on here kindly offered the advice of having a small boost controller on the first to bring it up slightly to .8 or .85 basically makes the car feel the same as a normal twin in terms of smoothness but you still get the BPU power at the end of it, hence I thought it was worth the expense of two controllers to try and emulate this. I'll let everyone know how I get on with this after I've cranked the second one up to 1.2, its still at restrictor plate stock I think as yet

Mine are set up totally individually, the Gizzmo on the first and the Manual BC on the second (I wanted it the other way around but the mechanic has clearly done it in reverse because of the position of the turbos I guess), but the separate boost gauge if what you are saying is true of my car is showing joint boost (its been on the car since I bought it and when I put a decat and restrictor plate in it never went over .95 so this rings true). So with your wise advice I need to wind down the Gizzmo to never top .85 and then slowly increase the manual until at WOT and beyond 4k it hits 1.2bar yes? When I get time I will put another identical Gizzmo in on the second turbo to make it ultra adjustable and have a winter setting but for now just so I can have some driving at BPU this summer what I've just said is true yes all things being equal?

Thanks so much people using this info I can confirm the Gizzmo is on the first turbo so I will reduce this one to .85 and then go for the second turbo which if this is right kicks in at 3-4k and I can go off the boost gauge to get somewhere between 1.15 and 1.2 thats so helpful of you! Just a final question and probably makes me sound really stupid but both turbos are separate components right so my understanding is it goes first turbo .8 second turbo 1.2 then both but when both are going does that mean it is running at 2bar total and is that fine? I know it probably sounds stupid as I know a BC cant reduce boost so everyone else must be running at these levels on BPU without issue but I just wanted to check

But are both turbos the same power? Or capable of the same boost I should say? And assuming the first one is fine how do I know if the second one is hitting 1.2? Sorry for the noob questions I just want ot get it right after so long trying

Hi All Ok so as an update on a previous thread after puzzling over the HKS VI repeatedly with several mechanics and getting no further I decided I actually wanted to enjoy the car this year and decided lso to start again by buying a Gizzmo (which fit wonderfully in the dash by the way in a blanked out button near the TC) and a manual BC and having them plumbed in to the turbos separately. With that set up I should be able to slowly and safely dial it in to BPU but if anyone can just help with a little knowledge in doing this? Bear with the resident car idiot that I am please with these questions... Ok so when I drive along the turbos spool and as soon as it goes over 0 the Gizzmo kicks in with figures on the display, this is if I am right the first turbo it is detecting yes? If so it is puzzling me as I asked for the mechanic to install it to the second which is why I am asking - or is it correctly detecting the second turbo? Are both turbos the same size as I slowly crept up the duty to 90 (the max) and it doesnt reach above 1.05bar, and if so why is that? Its defo plumbed up properly as duty alterations are making subtle differences to the boost. Also if it is on the first turbo by mistake and I set it to hit .85bar how would I use the manual boost controller which must therefore be attached to the second one to get to 1.2bar, as in when is my boost gauge only reading the second turbo? Any help in small words would be appreciated and I can send a picture of the bay if you would like?

Hi All Ok so as an update after puzzling over the HKS VI repeatedly with several mechanics and getting no further I decided I actually wanted to enjoy the car this year and decided lso to start again by buying a Gizzmo (which fit wonderfully in the dash by the way in a blanked out button near the TC) and a manual BC and having them plumbed in to the turbos separately. With that set up I should be able to slowly and safely dial it in to BPU but if anyone can just help with a little knowledge in doing this? Bear with the resident car idiot that I am please with these questions... Ok so when I drive along the turbos spool and as soon as it goes over 0 the Gizzmo kicks in with figures on the display, this is if I am right the first turbo it is detecting yes? If so it is puzzling me as I asked for the mechanic to install it to the second which is why I am asking - or is it correctly detecting the second turbo? Are both turbos the same size as I slowly crept up the duty to 90 (the max) and it doesnt reach above 1.05bar, and if so why is that? Its defo plumbed up properly as duty alterations are making subtle differences to the boost. Also if it is on the first turbo by mistake and I set it to hit .85bar how would I use the manual boost controller which must therefore be attached to the second one to get to 1.2bar, as in when is my boost gauge only reading the second turbo? Any help in small words would be appreciated and I can send a picture of the bay if you would like?

I assume everyone means they allow morons like me to overboost a car easily without forethought or ability and to be frank in my youth it is exactly what I would have done so maybe they have a point! I note some people eluded to Supra experts who can do more of this side, I thought in going to a mechanic who was friends with Tom Hudson and would be using his advice I had done this but I've clearly not managed to do this so can anyone post a few details of some of these recommended Supra specialists for us all? I've had 3 Supras (amongst 45 cars in my 23 years of driving) and always had the situation that you were lucky if anyone in my area wanted to work on them, it wasnt a case of people lining up to do it badly, so if there is a Specialist within 100 miles of me I would definitely investigate the option and like most I have two cars so can leave my Supe with someone for a period.

Fair dos, I'll give it a go and if it doesnt work switch to the Gizzmo, thanks for all your help Burna, Scooter Mike and everyone, its so nice of you all. The toilet rolls and hand wash are on me!

Yes I did indeed take this info to the mechanic who promptly followed it and it all went wrong, he then rang Tom Hudson at Fensport and they spent nearly three hours on video calls tweaking it and ended up with what I was left with, overboosting even though the head unit was insisting it wasnt and not giving off any alarm. Burna can you confirm from my pics that the lines are all correct for an HKS? If you can do that then i guess its the head unit. I can alter the boost, so lets say I wanted to drop the max I can put it down to 15 and it will come down to near safe levels but why there is such a disparity between what the head unit is detecting and the car is generating is extremely confusing? But if you can confirm the lines are correct I will be getting closer. Everyone else I talk to is constantly telling me the HKS is not the best and if I switch it out all my problems will be solved, but if at least I know the lines are correct I can have a look myself until next week. I've ordered a small bleed valve and a the latest Gizzmo V4 BC to replace it next week anyway but I dont like being beaten. I dont mind spending a little cash to get it going whilst I cant use it anyway much due to the lockdown.

Any help would be gratefully received Mike. In the current climate can I pay you back in stockpiled loo rolls and hand wash.....

- - - Updated - - - - - - Updated - - - Didnt realize there was a 2mb file size limit, modded all the pics now so you should see them.