Fulcrum2000

No never had this problem pre BPU so chances it's not new seal related and is turbo isn't likely plus power was through the roof even when pluming no signs of tub issues to my mind

It's leaking quite a lot of oil from the top so wouldn't imagine it's turbo related especially as all of the seals mentioned here would be disturbed during the valve seal repair. Looks like it needs stripping at the top and seeing what has split or come unseated etc I guess.

Yes I had all belts and I think all seals done at the same time as it seemed to make sense

Hi All So I finally got my BPU car back from the mechanics. All but the boost controller its done and wow what a difference! However.... Less than 50 miles in I give it a bit of beans down my local bypass and notice a 'haze' behind me. I think its just because the car wasnt run for a couple of days but then on the next straight I do it again and a cloud of smoke (which is as wide as the car so not just coming from the exhaust). plumes out of the back. This happens every time I accelerate as I limp home. I get back to the homestead, rev it a little, no smoke from the tail pipe, look underneath and quite a large amount of oil is peeing out. Looking under the bonnet it appears to be sourcing from the front of the rocker cover although its splashed a bit this does seem to be the epicentre. At the same time as going BPU I had my valve seals done which were going so all of this area had been exposed. Anyone know what seal, gasket or act of God has caused this? Needless to say its back at the garage....

Thanks so much Scooter that will save us so much time. Still in the midsts of BPU and valve seal replacement but getting there now finally. It'll be bloomin' winter by the time we get it done at this rate!

Hi All I have a new Walbro fuel pump to stick on my 93 TT, I am a bit of a newbie so where is it, is it in tank or in line and if inline whereabouts, engine side or tank end? Do you need any other extra parts changing and if its intank does it have an access panel or is it a tank out job? Hope you can help and thanks in advance anyone who can.

Yes In my distant (echo echo) youth I got through a ton of cars - in fact I tried to count how many cars I've actually owned and stopped at 45 through shock (and I got a bit sleepy) - and one of the things I always used to naively do was bang racing springs on them, had some awful experiences with preludes and MR2s on sh1t springs especially - I know they get a bad rap but I've never had any problems with Teins. They're defo not the best out there but the difference between them and the top enders is quite small in my experience and they're better than Toyboater originals too as well as being half the price. Plus they now have a guarantee on them so if any go they will replace any individual unit free you need which is reassuring. When I saw this amazing active kit and then the full auto active I just thought it was made for the Supra with its occasionally hilarious traction and to be able to turn it off or adjust it in car is well worth investing in when I have sorted out the power I want. I will defo put a thread on here when I get it sorted so if anyone else wants to know the difference in handling they can ask anything without investing their magic beans first. For me I didnt want to set it up to be a track car because I live in lincolnshire and the roads look like they've been strafed by a Messerschmitt but I also didnt want it set up like a big ol' Caddy flopping about either so it seemed the right way to go. I'll kep you posted!

Now suspension was where I went against the advice of many a forum. There's a good few better shocks than Tein out there for a Supe I totally agree and have used several myself, but then you hit the minefield of set up for purpose which is always a compromise. Now where Tein is (I think) unique is it can be upgraded to not only be active but automatic active with a special kit. This means when I buy and install this my car will be adjust in fractions of a second to all speeds all Gs and (if I want) can be set to anything from soft and 'GT' down to rock hard track all from the dashboard with one button. Combine this to fight Supes lack of traction and it is supposed to be PHENOMENAL mate. There's various demo vids of it online adjusting almost faster than the eye can see and its so good its apparently banned in amateur and pro race meets now. Might be a gimmick but I really dont think so. And of course, it only fits Tein shocks so that was the first step. All In its pricey with shocks it compares with the big boys of the shock world price wise, but lets face it we all get a set of shocks, fit them somewhere in the middle of hard and soft and live with it or pay a tuner to set them up to the best possible way they can be, with these its like a tuner running alongside you and constantly altering them for ever speed of bend and condition apparently. I've made myself pretty brassic paying for all my BPU stuff including the BCC at the mo so it'll be a few months before I buy the motors etc for them but when I do I will post about it on here as I havent found anyone with a Supe sporting these yet loads of other (lesser) sports cars though that are raving about them. At the end of the day if I fit them and they're naff at least everyone here can once again learn from my special brand of stupidity!

I see, I am a bit of a noob to tuning and am paying people who are infinitely more capable than me to do such things but I must admit my interest is piqued by it all. I'm sure like most BPU guys once I get it to be the animal that is I will just stick with it but its nice to know how it all goes step by step. I will probs post some pics etc when it comes back so anyone considering it can see the differences physically and in performance as I have them from an app at stock on mine for comparison. Still not sure why only connecting the first turbo would be the way forward but I will just instruct the mechanic to connect it like Rob and then my understanding is when I adjust it for say 1.15 and so on it will just do it as a whole working with the TT of the car naturally.

So it affects overall boost but you plug it into the first turbo and then when this reaches certain boost the second kicks in and the BPU allows the second to run at higher power too, yes? Sorry I actually thought it would plug into both and then be mapped to provide a certain level of boost to both, it just seemed logical. I will print that out and pass it on to the mechanic and go from there. So if he was to follow the manual I guess it just wouldnt fit? That seems a bit short sighted of HKS! But thanks so much to you and Scooter for this I will get it plumbed in and see whats what when it comes back and then stick the Active suspension on and that will be about the limit you can get out of BPU I think for actual useful power. Then its all down to the cosmetics of bodywork and interior which will be nice too.

Cheers Rob, just to clarify, for my 93 JSpec is it the diagram with the writing on or the one without? Also I take it this BCC allows you to control both first and second turbo without any kind of independent jiggery pokery?

I have an independent boost gauge which is extremely accurate already plumbed in so I should be able to see exactly whats going on, I'm using the standard WB Restrictor so when I get the correct settings for this I will let you guys know. Where are you guys mounting these by the way in the dash, there seems to be so little room left as standard, and the clock has already been replaced by an AFR gauge on mine, I dont want it on a little mount on the top of the dash either as it will just get plundered. I've seen one dash with it mounted above the stereo but I dont think that looks the best either

Yes I will ask the guy who is fitting it on set up he is apparently asking an auto electrician tuning guy to help with it and I've already said it cant go above 1.2 safely as this is the accepted figure for JSpec it seems. If it is 'off' I assume it will revert to standard 1 bar BPU on the restrictor and only increase when the BCC is active? I considered the traction aspect and have 275s already on the back and Changed the suspension all round for Teins which will later on in the year be uprated to go 'Active' which will hunker down the shocks through the GPS when the accell gets serious and increase grip even more. All this stuff has cost me a fortune but I am determined to get this car as good as it possibly can be running through the autobox and then go through the interior and upgrade that and finally a respray, then I can start spending some money on silly things like food.....

Hi again Scooter! Yes I read that thread but it all sounded a bit like boost blocks to me albeit carefully monitored but blocks nonetheless. My car had a full kit of those on it when I bought it, and was mentally fast, this is before any mods have gone on- but the boost gauge was reading (as much as I could see for the vibration as it had many other problems at the time) near 1.5. Obviously this was stupid for a jspec and I quickly had it removed and wanted to spend money restoring it and then professionally tuning it with the BCC. People on here are saying with the HKS you can indeed change first turbo as well as second which is why I paid near twice as much as I could have done for it instead of a greddy or whatever and it went into the garage this morning to have all the BPU parts put on and valve seals etc so I dont expect to see it for a couple of weeks but when I get it back it will have the BCC installed and I wont have a clue what numbers to dial in! Do you or anyone have any info on that or is it just a whole lot of trial and error? Also if you have the JSpec and old school BPU are you not suffering from the crash between first and second turbo on a big pull? I'm hearing various people saying JSpecs do and dont suffer from this on BPU with no BCC?

Hi All I now have everything required for BPU and at the same time the car is being fully serviced and having Valve seals done as its a tad smokey and these will lose me a little power and reliability too. Ok so when it come back one of the toys I bought under great recommendation from the good people on here was the very latest HKS EVC Boost Controller. I have read conflicting reports that under BPU you dont get the best first turbo performance but with this you can change the settings to make this happen and also be a smooth shift to second turbo and all the way up, however others say its UK cars that have this problem and with normal settings actually the JSpec is smoother and better off the line and into the second turbo. So my question is this, do i need standard settings on a JSpec on the HKS to make it as good as can be or some jiggery pokery in the installation and if I only need settigns whats the best for all over power whilst being as smooth as it can be from first to second? And also I have read on here there is a trick on raising first turbo pressure but when checking it only seems to benefit UK cars as this is the JSpec's 'party piece' it seems, is this true? I dont want to do any unrecommended install of the BCC unless there is some reason to do so as its a dear bit of kit in a dear bit of kit if you know what I mean so I am assuming plugging it in like it says on the tin is the best for a JSpec and its all about settings.

Hi All My Supes going to go into the garage shortly for Valve Seals and BPU but I've noticed the last couple of times I started it its developing a rattling noise on cold start up - anyone have any info on this, it seems to resemble a sign that valve guides wont last unless I get seals done according to Dr Google but not seen anywhere that Supras are prone to guide problems? I have to get this sorted during BPU because it would be loony tunes not to. Also my mechanic said it would be wise to change pulleys whilst doing all this as it will save on labour, I assume everyone just goes to lightweight ulleys instead of Toyota as they're cheaper and much nicer looking? Am I after cam pulleys and engine pulleys or just one or the other? I've asked him but he's not back for a few days so wondered if anyone knew which were most prone to wear?

Hi All Does anyone know if it makes any difference at all where you put the restrictor plate? Some say to pput it as far back as possible (assumedly at the catback joint) but others say it just restricts in the system so it doesnt matter. WOndered where anybody else put it?

Yes I found that out after I asked, my lack of knowledge is often staggering. What about AFR gauges, are they all created equal or are some about as trustworthy as Donald Trumps foreign policy?

Ok you've convinced me it is in my best interests I have ordered the latest version brand new of the HKS EVC - are this mounted through the dash or do they have a little holder thing? I would prefer to have it dash mounted - also do they have the function to show in bar or just psi etc? I prefer bar. Spending money like water at the moment on Supe!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/HKS-Evc-6-IR-Electrice-Valve-Boost-Controller-45003-ak011/1952374929?iid=282255189004&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D0aa5bfba39624489a0b6661e0acf19cf%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D132470266299%26itm%3D282255189004&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Is this the particular animal? Cheapest I could find the latest model

Excuse my ignorance but what is TTC?

I think its worth it in many ways as what a lot of people dont consider is it is kind of a flip flop option, so if you just dont have it on it stays at a nice normal 1 bar with the restrictor safe for all temperatures as I hear some people get real close to topping 1.2 on really cold days and then when you want 1.2 on a real warm day you can crank it up. This is my understanding anyway and the way I would use it would probably make the car much safer I hope? I bought a 93 Supra because I wanted one of the very oldest and I knew I could give it everything it needed to keep going and thats always been my train of thought, I've already spent as much as it cost to buy doing it all up to be honest!

Hi All I know there is some debate over whether you need a Boost Controller to get the very best out of BPU I am in the 'you do' camp and am therefore going to buy one tomorrow as I am collecting all the parts to have it done in a one shot deal. With that in mind I am going for the Greddy Profec - the newest model with only a tiny OLED gauge in the interior and much of the gubbins under the bonnet - so then I fit the 1 bar restrictor ring to my JDM 93 and manually up boost with this to 1.2 and I am at the safe limit with an AFR guage just in case. All that said, before I go and buy this fairly pricey bit of kit, has anyone fitted one, is it the best option for a BC for BPU? It has rave reviews and seems to be the easiest to fit by a mile, but I wanted to know if anyone had any thoughts. It is also the one WB include n their upgrade kit so i figure thats a good sign too.

Thanks guys I decided not to risk I and just bought one from Chris Wilson. I went for the HKS because its the one in the BPU 'kits' and had high praise on here at the time I looked but I dont think there's any point in skimping when I've already spent so much on BPU bits. I'll get an AFR gauge anyway as they make sense and are dirt cheap what kind of readouts should I be seeing at 1.2 boost on one of these to ensure the setup is not causing damage?

Do you have one fitted on yours Mk4Gaz and any issues if so?