Fulcrum2000

I'm not going beyond full bpu so will replace whatever is snafoo'd with stock parts. If its big end I guess thats full rebuild time? Anyone know with stock whatever's that is ballpark?

Well I drove it (very very slowly) to the mechanic who is less than a mile away, he said 'well that doesnt sound fucking great' but he doesnt suspect crank pulley - the more I hear it the more it reminds me of the sound when my big ends were going on my Mk2 MR2 albeit a bit quieter. Oil is pumping fine so not that new pump. Are we talking a rebuild here and if so a couple of questions, any opportunities to do other jobs at a fraction of the cost and how much is a rebuild likely to set me back? When was the last time anyone had one? I could have had similar performance for a fraction of the price by buying a Nissan 370. But then, I'd be sat in a Nissan 370.

Sorry here it is again

Hi All So this morning just went to start my pride and joy and noticed with a small amount of revs this knocking new sound coming from the engine bay, anyone have a clue whats happened? Only just had a new oil pump, cam belt, all belts really, oil change, plugs, you name it. No engine warning lights came on, no signs at all? I posted a youtube vid here: I've had dozens of cars and the only thing that sounds like this in my experience is big ends etc but its not as loud as my memory serves, either that or a loose pulley or fan or something? Happens out of gear so not box related and only kicks in when revs are raised from standard by a couple of hundred at least. Maybe its constantly happening but just too quiet at lowest revs. Help!

I'm wondering what the best tyres for performance but with some wet weather handling are. When I shoe'd mine after I bought it I went on the government ratings for best braking distances and put Pirelli 235 pzeros front and Falken 275s on the back. These either equalled or out performed all other 18s on the site i went on for braking when I checked. But for performance all round I suspect Pirellis are going to be the best. Softer and quicker wearing but gripper?

Hi all Just wondered what the best top end pads are for jspec brakes. Just about to finish full BPU and still on J's. Got standard genuine new discs all round but I hear theres pads and there's pads... I'm looking for a full UK spec brake set as we speak but as a temporary measure what are jspeccers using out there?

So what we're saying is people are using 10 50+ as a belt and braces approach for the odd time on the track but day to day driving with some of the beans some of the time Millers 10 40 recommendation is right? I dont mind paying extra for 10 50 or 10 60 but Tricky raises a good point - unless you're going hell for leather all the time doesnt the thicker oil just put more of a strain on your oil system as oppose to protecting it? I mean I have a brand new oil pump now yes, but one designed to pump 10 30 oil as we all do I imagine. I'm not in any way having a go at anyone please dont misunderstand, I just want to make the right choice to protect my car and whilst asking this forum I've done loads of internet searching and the only people (other than on here) recommending anything higher than 10 40 for a Supra seem to be people who sell oil and would make more profit on the more expensive oils. To explain my train of thought I am a business owner and I always look at such things in this frame of mind, however unlike some of the members on here I am certainly not a mechanic so need to bow to the wisdom of those who are! - - - Updated - - - So what we're saying is people are using 10 50+ as a belt and braces approach for the odd time on the track but day to day driving with some of the beans some of the time Millers 10 40 recommendation is right? I dont mind paying extra for 10 50 or 10 60 but Tricky raises a good point - unless you're going hell for leather all the time doesnt the thicker oil just put more of a strain on your oil system as oppose to protecting it? I mean I have a brand new oil pump now yes, but one designed to pump 10 30 oil as we all do I imagine. I'm not in any way having a go at anyone please dont misunderstand, I just want to make the right choice to protect my car and whilst asking this forum I've done loads of internet searching and the only people (other than on here) recommending anything higher than 10 40 for a Supra seem to be people who sell oil and would make more profit on the more expensive oils. To explain my train of thought I am a business owner and I always look at such things in this frame of mind, however unlike some of the members on here I am certainly not a mechanic so need to bow to the wisdom of those who are!

So tricky you seem to agree with Miller's 10 40 recommendation at bpu?

Which millers 10 50 is it the silver or black bottle? I'll look into it tomorrow. Still got the actual millers site telling me 10 40 though

Just done a check on the millers site and they recommend 5 30 10 40 for my exact model. Now I'm really confused? This is going on my exact plate and its got the engine eye right. So are you guys saying 10 50 for BPU then and killers agree with me for non BPU? - - - Updated - - - Sorry not killers Millers!

Hi All After all my engine repairs I had Quantum 10 30 but am going to switch back to Magnatec 5/30 synth but have been told ion here ts not the right oil even though it says it is on the bottle and Toyota used it when doing one of the repairs so I am a little confused. What oil is everyone using just to confirm as if the bottle is wrong and Toyota I am a little confused. Any advice would be appreciated for my next change

Thats wierd it was the one the Toyota guys used for one of my problems and the one they recommended. And it says suitable for Turbo engines on the bottle. I think we need a separate thread for this......

Sorry got mixed up, I use Edge in my Beemer, its Magnatec I use in the Supe!

Yeah I suppose we all get a favourite oil and stick to it like white on rice but it all comes out of the ground I guess. Black gold. Texas tea....

I'll give it a thou and then change it back to Edge cheers all. Mine still has that sticker too Robin!

Oh it was faster just not by enough to warrant the cost and I felt it struggled to get traction more than the best boy I've tried which was around 440. The single was near 600 and in drags there was so little in it it shocked me to be honest. Now there's only 2 Supras left in my town....

Hi Tricky Thanks for that, might go 10 40 Edge then next change. i think relistically at some point I'm going to have to go rebuild but its just getting stronger the more elements I have fixed so hopefully it will be a year or two down the line. I've heard quotes of 3k or so for a rebuild so its not too bad I guess, similar to a respray from the best place in Lincolnshire. On the AFR front, its all like dominoes with a restoration it seems. Once the oil pump is done mine will go in for a top up undersealing treatment then BCC and AFR will be fitted. but not the Juding, I sent that back as it was a gauge only, and will be getting an AEM shortly to fit at the same time as the HKS BCC. I like this one best: AEM GAUGE X-SERIES AFR WIDEBAND UEGO CONTROLLER Its one of the two makes everyone swears by so should be fine. Not sure if I need it but it can only safeguard my car and make it future proof if I want to go single or whatever. To be honest I've driven a big single though and they're not much faster and nowhere near as nice to drive as a full BPU TT in my opinion. As I say, that is just my opinion though. After all that it gets fitted with EDFC active which should make more difference to the speed than anything else I could put under the bonnet.

But 10 30 is surely fine for the next one till I switch back to Castrol Edge 5 30 I take it? I have been pretty religious in little stuff like this since I got it, I was going to change oil every thousand miles as mine isnt a daily driver but because of all the natural problems its developed in the 18 months since I bought it its had 3 full changes in 1500 miles so far! I am a little worried about the crust in the engine and yes all my old cars seemed to have it so whilst regular changes will likely stop it getting any worse is there any procedure to remove it? I wouldnt put any of the crap halfauds sell to clean an engine in without serious recommendation as both my mechanics say these can do more harm than good in a turbo engine. I guess the only way to get it cleaned it properly is a rebuild?

So I've just had my oil pump done as per my ongoing problems and hopefully it will all be sorted. Apparently my oil strainer was very clogged and only half working so had that sorted too. Only thing is I normally use Castrol Edge 5w30 which i think is the best oil for a TT and due to a miscommunication they've put 10 30 Quantum in. Is anyone else using this and is it ok? I'm BPU all but BCC so I try and give it all the best it can get to make sure it stays healthy. The head stamp and Toyota both say 10 30 is the way to go so I assume its all fine but I got it from somewhere that 5 30 was the way to go these days. Anyone else had a fookayed oil strainer by the way and could this have caused/contributed to my FMS failure? The mechanic told me the oil pump that came out was a bit worn but not too bad so 25 years later thats impressive, glad I have a new one fitted now though!

http://www.rakangertai.com/proView.asp?id=943 This is what I found on google, but no actual useful info, as I say leads to 4 coloured wires at the back, so I am guessing you need a sensor. Considering the sheer amount of money I have spent getting the best of everything for BPU I reckon maybe one of the 150 quid market leader AFRs is perhaps the way to go then? The car is in for its new fuel pump on the 26th, then I have to fit new dashboard cluster glass and last of the new trims when that arrives on the 30th so I guessed the dash out day was the time to fit this AFR but if its just going to give micky mouse readings then need a rethink. I havent fitted the CW FCD yet or BC because I wanted to monitor AFR before going above 1 bar to make sure its all setup healthily. Is my new policy of doing the sensible stuff first, making sure its reliable then moving on to the next part, an alien concept for someone used to 'respray, big wheels and foot flat down' of times gone past.... If anyone is interested the WB restrictor ring I got is just superb, literally goes to a nadge under 1 bar but still safe under FC at full chat straight out of the box at least according to my blitz boost gauge.

Its a Juding LED9959 and comes up in google and as I say no sensor on the end. To be honest I nly bought it because I liked the LED dial itself and just assumed if it was touted as AFR it would work as an AFR. Its amazing how often products are disappointing isnt it. I bought the full stainless dash trims and one of those custom made to fit a Supe doesnt. I wonder where all the QC people in the world are sometimes.

But if I am at 1.2 controlled with the best BC you can buy the HKS6 and the best FCD you can buy, from CW, the best restrictor you can get, WB, I should be ok yes? Bearing in mind I have new cambelt, new valve seals, new FMS, new oil pump, new fuel pump, new sparks, new filters, hell half the car is new now? I have been told I'm fine but as a precaution to fit AFR if I want, is that the gospel?

Hiding it was about 40 quid. No sign of any sensor just gaugecand 4 coloured wires - - - Updated - - - Sorry I meant Juding

Even at 1.2 max I'm safe then?

Hi all So I'm nearly done up to BPU and I bought a cheap AFR gauge as part of it a Juding I believe. Do I just connect it to the o2 sensor or buy a sensor and fit at the end of the decats? Do I even need one at normal BPU at 1.2 controlled by a HKS 6 BC?