Fulcrum2000

I totally agree with the engine thing, it is after all a normal well made 6 cylinder engine, if I had loads of aspirations to get it up to a million HP then maybe but wht you need is an old school mechanic whose seen all this sort of things before to fix it. I cant find a 2JZ GTE for less than 3k though, surely the savings just arent going to be there doing it this way are they? I know its possible I can sell on the second one but in the meantime I have a whacking great engine in my front room to use for a coffee table..... I dont think you can get a decent GTE anymore second hand unfortunately, they're all just too old. And of course many of them on ebay etc will be ones exactly like mine, someone needed another and is now selling the one with its faults to me.

I agree and would have bought an engine but unfortunately because of their legendary status they've all been bought up and stuck in other cars or Supes when they need one. Only ones left are 3k or above and done more miles than mine and could have all the inherent problems of the one I am taking out. Surely its more sensible to have the engine rebuilt and therefore checked then have a mystery recon unit jammed in and hope for the best? If I were selling it I would consider it but I want this car around for life if possible?

Oh yes its no BC term Tricky, I actually had an old Beemer die from it years ago so it wasnt a new one to me. But if you google black death in engines you'll see about a cajillion pics of it actually happening too. Also just one of the millions of links to services to deal with it etc is here: https://svsautocare.com.au/blogs/vehicle-maintenance/black-death/ My understanding of it is basic at best but it seems to be when a car isnt well maintained with oil changes and filters etc and especially when stood as well (mine was sat in a garage for 4 years and then did 40km in the next year!) when someone starts to run it again (the owners previous to me) with the shit old oil and filters it starts to carbonize in the block and hey presto. I got it and have been fixing everything slowly, had several oil changes, filters etc but until you strip an engine you dont know how bad the issue is, some cars last years with this so the approach is wait for it to fail as the remedial treatment is a rebuild anyway. What really cooked it was the oil pump, putting a new one on gave it the power to take some of that carbonized shit off the engine walls and start to fookay everything. Mechanic bashing aside (but we all love to bash them) if you look at my symptoms it all makes perfect sense, smokey valve seals, oil strainer being the most blocked up ever seen by the second mechanic (with BD) sudden failure with that full power pump but no problems with oil pressure. Its unfortunately the correct diagnosis but is a month a long time to clean and refit most parts of the engine? Perhaps not thinking about it. According to all 3 mechanics once this is done it is basically a new engine though inside.

Oh he knows the engine, he's even fitted one in a BMW drift car before. The black death isnt debatable as to whether it has it, I had my original mechanic tell me it had it, the mechanic who fitted my oil pump told me and now the new Rally guy, it came as no surprise. I'm more surprised its going to take so long to fix is that normal?

Ok so as an update i took it to the mechanic and my car has 'the black death' which I'm told of course involves a full rebuild but also cleaning of all the non broken parts and replacing the odd broken part which is causing the noise (they suspect crank area but are still in the process of removing the engine). The mechanic says its going to take about a month because all the parts need cleaning and broken ones sourced, is that about right or does that seem long to anyone? I've checked him out and he has an immaculate reputation both online and in the area and runs a rally team in his spare time (there was an evo in bits in there when I clattered in) so he will hopefully be doing a five star job. Just wondered if it seemed like a long time to anyone on here? I am guessing about 5 grand is that about accurate if anyone has experience? It's definitely worth it as I want to keep the car for a very long time and correct me if I'm wrong but with this level of rebuild all my compression issues etc will all get sorted out too as he puts new rings etc in?

But I appreciate the forums rules but wouldnt people who know reliable mechanics in each area sharing info be absolutely invaluable to all Supe owners rather than just those who had paid to advertise? Especially if they had had a bad experience? I could tell all right now of the three worst mechanics in my area including one who once left a spanner in the pop up light mechanism of my MR2!

It's not the complexity of the engine it's the age of the car and the fact it's Japanese that puts people off. A mechanic thinks they'll fix one problem and just by disturbing old engine parts create two more in the process. I'm very reasonable and understand this isn't just likely to happen but until the weaknesses are replaced it definitely will. I guess I just didn't expect them to all come days apart but once I work through them I'll have a cracking legend of a car, I think I just have to bear that in mind. I would guess after this annus horribilus that might be achieved and the respray will have to wait a little longer! Maybe I should buy that 1000 hp 2jz on eBay and drop it in. Imagine the problems you'd have with that!

It's just as bad with our 911 996. Only one place in the county that will look at it. The excusesthey come out with not to look at the Supra are crazy. That's when they don't just tell me to F off.... 10 years ago when I had the mr2 which was a right wazzock to work on everybody would drip new engines in or whatever. Seems you either need a specialist or an old school mechanic without 'the fear'. Hopefully I've just found one but let's see what happens

There's nobody within 50 miles of Lincolnshire who is an expert unfortunately and preciois few who arent terrified of it or I would. The new mechanic has his own rally team so hopefully we have some real old school experience this time

It did indeed have an intermittent knock before the pump replacement this became more apparent when I had the aircon repaired which was US before and potentially added more load to the weak part which finally gave way at the first stage of bpu so far it's only departed with a restrictor and isn't even FCD'd yet so not exactly high load. Had two people check oil pressures which are fine so guess that rules out the pump and comes back to the more parts I fix in terms of valve seals FMS pumps filters etc leaving less and less old parts hence more pressure to fail? Guess it's like replacing 5 links of a 25 year old chain and then pulling it - the old links remaining suddenly cant take it. Scooter: I bought the car at a distance mate and I knew it would be hassle but got it for 8k. I also knew the 25 year limit on exports would make Supras become more expensive. Even a zimilar example to the one i bought is now around 16k minimum and that is going to have many of my issues on top of the hefty initial price which is touching V8 M3 money now which I wouldn't rather have but are about the only car in my experience almost as nice to drive. It had to be a 93 as this was released on my 18th birthday and I feel an affinity with it. I guess the work is going to be 2 grand or so by the time it's finished but I can live with that and with me as an owner it's hopefully going to get stronger as I lavish services and care on it. Thats the plan anyway.

As a quick update all pressures fine engine tested with belts off and noise is from the engine. The mechanic doesn't want to deal with any more invasive issues but suspects the new pump blew away some of the old gunk masking whatever the cause of the problem was and I suspect it's true. I have already found a new mechanic who is happy to strip the engine down from the top and find and fix whatever faults he finds. It sounds high up to me but I will get him to check pistons and bores whilst it's in bits. Obviously I'll keep you all informed and it looks like another big bill coming my way but I'll keep plugging away till my car is strong. I get the impression that most others on here have reliable cars is this the case or are you all periodically suffering the kinds of failures I have had a cluster of? Some reassurance 25 year old Supes actually are reliable when well maintained would help me

Nothing yet, they're diagnosing it when they can but garages in lincolnshire are really busy, you normally wait a couple of weeks to get a days labour booked at the good ones so when I turned up clacking away I knew it would be a week or more before they did a full check. I'm on my family hols for a while now anyway but if I havent heard anything from them by the time I get back I will start bothering them. I suspect the people on here are right though and its one of the belts or more likely very high up in the engine and it will only be a partial disassembly. I really need some good luc after this as it is getting very hard to justify the near 10 grand I've spent upgrading but mainly repairing the car and only 1500 miles covered! Come on Supe!

With respect Tricky it's not me now saying it had a sound I always said it and the link to the thread where I thought it was cam pulley is in this thread. I guess until I get an update from the mechanic it's all conjecture at this point but it will get what it needs and perhaps my compression will be radically improved in the process. Got to look for a positive somewhere! I think the respray will have to wait now though for obvious reasons till I'm holding more folding....

I would agree but the pump was replaced as a 'belt and braces' step when the FMS went. To explain the history, I had the valve seals done as the car produced a lot of smoke when starting, and I mean a lot. When they were done it was simply perfect, with the exception that the aircon didnt work. I got my pipes fixed by a specialist company and then went back to the mechanic, had these fitted and the small sound started. Took my car down the bypass on the way home and every time I accelerated got a car wide plume of smoke out the back, went straight back and the FMS had gone. He stripped it all down and fitted a new one and new cambelt but the small sound was still discernible but pretty much only to me. He said I had a slight issue with my AC pulley bearing being loose so I had that changed but again it didnt solve the sound. The mechanic who worked on the Mk III in town then fitted a new oil pump when many on here said it needed it and it made sense to me too but there was no indication it was faulty when it came out. The oil strainer had been clogged up and was cleaned at the same time but the pump was still going strong apparently. When you are next to it, that video doesnt do it justice, it is pretty loud, not big end gone loud, but loud and to me I totally agree it sounds like its coming from the top of engine. Should I have new piston rings etc as a matter of course if it goes that far in?

I think so yes but almost 10 percent different to the other 5

The only other fact I can add is on compression tests one of my cylinders had significantly less than the other 5. I think it was a good few percent down.

Most people on here said cam wasnt tight enough, had it checked and no issue but no resolution, then I knew I was going to a new mechanic to do the oil pump (so its two mechanics here not one making the same mistake twice or I would be worried) so I bought another new full cambelt kit thinking if its cam then boom, job done. However when I got it back the sound was still there despite all belts coming off and on again. Then I got advice it might be piston slap which can be managed. But clearly something went south quick!

Cheers Dunk, not sure why I couldnt find it in my history

I could try taking it to a specialist PJJ but the problem when you have a situation like this is the car isnt mobile. I struggled to get it to the local garage so unless there was a massive benefit to starting it and running it onto a trailer, letting it bump about across the countryside and then start again to come off, start again for diagnostics I thought that might be a tad risky? When the big end went in my MR2 it went from the tiniest sound to a massive Japanese machine gun sound in the space of three miles. New engine unfortunately that time so I will stick to this mechanic and if he is stumped it will have to be a specialist like Hartech etc I guess, but thanks for the contact info guys its good to have a backup plan!

It was making a mild intermittent noise before this though, as per my previous thread. On idle. I posted a video. Looks like the thread has been removed its not in my activity list anyway. I was recommended to have one of the ancillary pulleys changed which I did and it was still there, so I had the oil pump done thinking the cambelt may be slightly loose and it might cure it, but it didnt. the noise was very minor and many on here said it might be a little bit of piston slap. It may have had nothing to do with it but it did make a sound. I also noticed my AC pulley was loud when it went on, not sure if that was indicative. But now the oil pressures are tested and its fine I guess we are looking at pulleys or internals of some kind?

Yes he said the same checking the filler was just for a cursory glance to check top end lubrication. Oil light went out almost immediately when started too. He's since done oil pressure tests and all is fine but that's where we are. Might need an oil pressure gauge then but I wanted th limit my pillar to twin with boost and AFR. Guess I could drill out the clock Ive seen people do that and mine has no clock behind it anyway!

Yes I'm going to go 10w 40 Tricky Millers seems to actually be better than many others and not just have an out there name to make it seem so when you look into it, ie Zinc level etc. As a final question, does anyone know why Millers has 2 10 40s recommended for GTEs? Ie the black and silver bottles, which one are we using? Silver seems to indicate more cold start protection but it might just be a rebadge? Are we black or silver users out there? I've got the AEM Wideband Tricky, thats being fitted later this month, guess I need to look into an oil pressure gauge too and consider where the heck its going to go on the dashboard! And Mike2JZ - I totally respect what you're saying too, not glossing over it, just thinking as the way forward for me as a second car supra set up is to go with a decent 10 40 synth and job done. I have my oil changed each year and the car only does about 1500 miles a year as I also have a 535D that does all the real work.The comparison in reliability between the two is simply staggering, the difference being I've owned that car for years and been in charge of the servicing I guess let alone the Supra being a decade older.

I passed all this on as many are thinking pulleys he's going to check all of those with a fine tooth comb before 'going in'. When the FMS went I was on the bypass of my town and it took a three mile (slow) trip to get back to the mechanic. When he checked how much oil had gone though it was only a litre, is that enough to do whatever has happened should it be internal issues? The person who fitted the oil pump is a new mechanic I found and he knows a MkIII very well and you can see the oil pumping through the filler cap so I guess thats eliminated that somewhat. Whatever it is I will fix it, regardless, even if its a total rebuild, but lets hope its not quite that serious. Guess if I had a rebuild I could have new rings put on and make my compression improve though, every cloud has a tiny silver lining.

So as the OP, its looking to me like with actual testing in a BPU car 10 40 and 10 50/60 synths are working identically all but tiny variations? So to answer the original question I should buy 10 40 Millers CFS or Fuchs, semi if I'm changing every 6 months and synth if I'm doing it once a year as synth degrades more slowly. Is what I've taken from more experienced oil users correct or is my logic flawed? I think most of us with Supras will just be driving them around and giving it occasional beans so taking that as a benchmark Swampy/Tricky seem to be right, there's just no advantage to putting a totally different grade of oil in a car thats not recommended for it by the people who designed the engine itself? I spoke to a guy at AT, the local tuning firm about putting 10 50 in it and he just looked at me and said 'Why would you do that?' And he has a racing team.

After stating the obvious about it not sounding good he said the first thing he would do was determine oil pressures then go from there and if necessary take the top of the engine off nd go from there. The first thing he did was have a good look at those front pulleys but I guess he will do those tests. He looked after a Mark III from new apparently so he knows Supras but I guess we will have to see what he comes back with as an update