griffsplace

I did have a look at others that were on ebay. I did order a prius one which was pretty darn close the being the same, and only about £15. The tip of the sensor was a mm or more further back than the supra one. I could have filed the plastic bracket down that would have brought it to the same distance, but reduced the strength on it. If someone has access to a good variety of Toyota options I am sure we could find a replacement that is a fraction of the cost of dedicated Supra ones. Fortunately I did my wheel bearings without breaking any of the sensors so stuck with my originals and sent the prius one back.

I did refurbish them before installing them, so they should be working fine, plenty of life in the pads. Thought I had it sorted, bled and bled, was feeling pretty good. Started up and drove again, it's just the same. Going to switch back to my jspecs tomorrow. Totally pissed of with it now.

Did a double check just in case, I did do it right. Though i am going to slip them off but still connected and give them a good shake to try to free up and air and get the bleed in the perfect orientation. Alternatively slip the jspecs back on and try to eliminate things one by one.

well tried them all no joy. gravity method nothing comes out of any of them. tried bleed the master cylinder, made no difference. there was not a steady flow from both ports, more seemed to come out of the one closest the bulkhead. it seems the pedal goes down about 3 inches and hits resistance, it does NOT feel progressive all the way slowly getting harder as you compress air in the system.

They are stock rubbers, so I can give the clamping a try. I did notice HEL were doing a discount this week so was tempted to go that route, I guess the original rubbers will soon have had their day in any case. I was just trying to stop the spending for a few months, though I guess I bought the wrong car for that:)

I do have the tube and bottle bleeding kit, the tube has the non return ball bearing valve on the end. Worth a try tonight. Though with the non return removed of course, I doubt gravity would push it open.

I have just swapped out my front jspec twinpots, for UK 4 pots and discs and am having a nightmare getting it bled right. During the swap the fluid had drained considerably even though I attempted to put something airtight over the fluid filler cap. The UK spec callipers have been cleaned up, painted, new seals and one new piston, but not split open. They seemed to bleed as expected with some air coming out at first and then stiffened up. I then drove it off the drive the next day and could barely stop at the end and was into the road before I knew it. The brakes do come on in the end but its a very long way down before they do anything. Last night, I got back in the car and the there is still a lot of travel, it does seem better when the engine is off, once started the pedal goes down a lot further due to the vacuum assist I assume. We re-bled the whole system rears to front, some tiny bubbles and dirt did come out of the rears, neglible air from the fronts. But the pedal travel is still way excessive. Reasearch through here, has one suggestion of doing it with the engine running. The other idea is from the workshop manuals is that the master cylinder needs bleeding first, this involves a potential mess with the fluids, I would rather not do, but surely if the fluid is pumping on through the cyclinder is worked as it should . I cant believe its nothing more than air in the system, but the situation makes the car unsafe to drive at the moment which is frustrating after my coilover and brake upgrades. Any ideas???

Yep pin hole leak in the metal section coming away from the banjo before you get into the rubber hose. Removed the section started the car and there was a fine jet of fluid. Got a video if anyone interested, link below. ANYONE WHO READS THIS SHOULD REMOVE THE PLASTIC COVERING THIS SECTION TO PREVENT CORROSION UNDERNEATH IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PHOTO.

I do have an undertray, though its not been on the car for a year or so, too many bolts sheared on removal, another fix on my to do list. The car is generally rusty everywhere underneath in any case. Most bolts on anything exposed have been about 50/50 with shearing or coming undone, even with a good wd40 soak and some heat.

Before I dive in at the weekend, I have been trying to pin point the source of the leak in the power steering system. I degreased it all and then ran for a few minutes and went turn to turn on the steering. The leak shows up looking like both ends of the short stubby return leg coming away from the valve. Does anyone know if these rot through? I am hoping I can just remove the rubber bit and see in a bit more detail. I am also going to rope in a mate to do the steering whilst I watch it direct following another clean. I cant believe the cost of the new hoses, there are a couple on ebay, so overpriced compared to many other models, likewise with the cooler pipe, Supra £215, Celica £43, WTF that's ridiculous. New BC coilovers arrived and now I have to fix this first, darn it:( Anyhow, enough grumbling, any advice always welcome.

Craigie, I am in Aberdeen. I did mine with diodes, easy peasy, even easier than the relays.

Back on the road today[GRIN][/GRIN]

So I sold my Gandors and replaced with Oems. My car has the folding option switch so in trying to get them to work they make a little noise but don't fold. Into investigation mode, open them up and try sticking 12v on the motor terminals, hey presto it works one way, reverse the positive and negative it goes back. Motor works. Then there is the small circuit board between the input wires and the motor, a couple of resistors two capacitors and a relay. I don't understand the working of the circuit, but am more than capable of un soldering one set of components and soldering in new ones. Nothing looks burnt out or obviously damaged. Has any one ever tried this, success??

Hi, difficult to tell from the pictures, are they all good, no leaks, how old, what kind of mileage have they seen.

Current suspension leaking like a seive and will never pass the mot. What have you got? Prefer height and damping adjustment. Need to know how old and how many miles and pictures please.

Pics attached with scratches and chip, worse locations, on the whole they are spotless. And electrical connector (I have never used)

Extra pictures of mirrors on the car

bump

It kind of seemed to work, not as easy as putting the originals. Alot of times the ring squashed and pushed up the seal and created a gap.

Just do a simple search on eBay for supra piston seals, from a company called bigg Red.

Fook it, just put the old ones back on!

I am in the process of re-building my callipers, and struggling to get the piston seals back on. I bought some new one off fleabay and they at a bit different than my originals. Does any one know if these are just wrong or know of a guide for how they go together. On the left are the new ones, on the right are the old ones.

White, a but scruffy, two people sat in it with hoods up, TRD spoiler, I think I remember

Hi, selling my Ganadors. Tried ebay but got messed around £400 + £15 P&P and they are yours. Carbon fibre look, just a couple of barely noticeable scratches.

Have you even moved since I drove past last Friday on my way home.?