Busemannen

Hi. Is there any possibility to get some updated links w/ pics? I know this thread is old, but...

Thx... I just sent an email to him...

I'll get it on a jig...

I'll email you directly... Just have to gather some pics and info... Thanx for your answere...

--------- well,that was a thought that I didn't come up with, by myself... I'll give this a thought, and thank you for your answere....

...Because I lost all control over the car in a slippery part of the road, this spring. And that was a lesson learned regarding weather and driving conditions. Anyways, the front is smashed from the front wheels and forward. also the two frontmembers were bent about 45 degrees to one side... The cost of fixing this on a shop is just to expensive for me, so I've looked for the parts thart needs to be bought for the car to get on the road again... The parts I need is pretty hard to come by, at least when it has to be cheap... So I managed to find an app that had the various parts in exploded view. It also had many of the chassis parts needed, but It's an app from Japan, and the parts would have to be ordered asnd shipped from Japan, and it's going to take 1,5-2 months to get them to Norway where I live... I also looked for front clips of Supras, but manged to find only one fron clip on ebay, and it had a veilside front, and It seems that several of the chassis parts were missing anyway, so I'm asking you guys for advise on where to seek for things like: front member, hood, radiator and holder, and replacement parts like the first parts of the plates that sits in the front of the chassis, the Aluminum chrash protector betwwen the front members, and basically all the parts from the wheels and forward... Does anyone have any links to places where they sell those items?Maybe in europe, or If anyone has bought all the pieces and done the work themselves... I get that the two front members must be bent back in a bench with measuring equipment and fixating the car to the bench, but all the rest, I have contacted an experienced mecanic to help me. I've got limited experience in this matter, but got the sevice manuals, witch I have studied and read a lot in, and managed to fix most of the problems that I've encountered, like changing the turbos, and such. I also are a member of several foras(forums?) for MKIV owners, and now I ask you guys for some advise. (Other than let the shop do the work for 15.000 Euros) Regards, Ivan B.

Is it possible to wake up this thread from the long forgotten past, as the information there is of importance even in 2017?... How long is the longest timespan any thread here on the forum has lived?

Well, as stated above, the HKS EVC 6 can do both, and I think EVC 4 and 5 also are capable of boosting nr 1. turbo...

Hi, I'm trying to upload a picture of a VSV that is mounted on the intake on a MKIV. I believe it's a fuel pressure VSV... it's not connected to anything, and I wonder if anyone knows where it should be connected? Both the front and top connection...

I meant if AEM Trueboost were able to control the nr. 1? (The HKS controller, I've understood is able to boost nr. 1, but is that the only EBC that can do this? It's an expensive piece, but as I understand, gives a far better control over the whole boosting than even Greddy's type r EBC?

Thx for your answere... But can it also boost turbo nr. 1?

So noone who would give some advise on witch controller to choose?

Thx for info, It's BPU, but lacks boost control, so I have to get something in there, but I admit the time I am up in the high revs is only a fraction of the time I drive the car, so I'd like a good boost in the lower register ...

Sorry for beeing slow to reply... Is seems as Iv'e got eurospec turbos on a JDM car, ..

It's possible on a few EBC's to control both turbo's... I think HKS makes one? Maybe Blitz's is capable too?

It's confusing to find a good EBC with capabilities to control both turbo's on my TT'96 JDM... Some of them seems to be discontinued while others were top notch a few years ago, but may have been outdated by newer EBC's. Can anyone share their view on this matter?

Thx to you guys for clearing up this topic... I'll stop looking for JDM turbos w/4 bolts, and instead try to get an eurospec second hand turbo w/4 bolts... I'm hoping to get the car on the road again as soon as I find a turbo, bacause the clock is ticking and time is running out, and every day without driving is a torture....

Thanks for the answere.... The set of turbos with 3 bolts did not have any EGCV valve and actuator. Just a plate where the hole would be... Would it be possible to get them to work in sequential mode without a EGCV?

But I also got the exhaust pipe that gives pre-spool to turbo no 2. I got hold of a set of turbos, but those were 3 bolts, and there was no Exhaust Gas Control valve. Just a welded plate on the pipe. I didn't actually check if they would fit if I exchanged the whole package because I was hoping to swap turbo nr. 1. I later found that the Exhaust gas control valve in my car was forces open by a bolt that was welded on to the actuator arm and one of the bolts that holds the bracket... So I've driven the car with that valve open, always, in almost one years time... I were under the impression that in order to get the full benefits from sequential turbos, all 4 valves had to work as they were ment to?

It's a JDM car, so the whole turbopackage must have been swapped out to Eurospeck?

Hi, I got a tear in the walls of the housing of the first turbo on my Supra TT JDM '96. I've tried to get a second hand turbo to exchange, but out of 8-9 turbos i found noone with 4 bolts. All of them got 3 bolts turbos. I have tried to figure out as to why i have 4 bolts... But It's no information anywhere... Can someone inform me of any facts regarding 3 bolt vs 4 bolt? If I get a manifoil with 3 bolts mounting, will I be able to use 3 bolts turbos instead? I've come across a complete package with the twins, and the housings inbetween, bur the were no exhaust control valve on that one. and the diameter of the exhaust opening was much smaller, The place where the atuator normally would connect, were welded with a plate blocking the hole, so I guess It's ment for True twin turbo operation... It also lack the exhaust back tube that is used for the pre-spool... Is there anyone with any knowledge of this issue?

Just saying hello to all members here...