dandan

Any good to you? Lovely sounding exhaust on BPU..... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?261269-Trial-Tuning-Spirit-Catback-TT-Exhaust&highlight=exhaust

That may be so, but talking about shear loads and bending loads as interchangeable is wrong. You could easily confuse people who don't know any better. Don't get the wrong impression - I understand the loadings in this example perfectly. All I said was that the length of the spigot is not related to its shear area...I've said nothing about the relevance or irrelevance of that shear area. Edit: I really am going home now

But now you are talking about bending loads rather than shear.... I'm headed home now and have no internet there but I'll try to post somethng useful back up here tomorrow morning.

I don't really follow what you're on about there Scott. I just wanted to point out that increasing the length of a spigot on the hub does not increase the shear area - your post could easily confuse people into thinking that was the case.

The 5mm of the lip doesn't relate to the weight bearing of that spigot feature though Scott - it wouldn't matter if it stuck into the wheel by 25mm, the shear area is the same.

Good man, are they in good condition? I'm potentially interested in left and right in both colours if they're good. Drop me a PM if you like.

Have you got any Gunmetal or Quicksilver facelift wings dude?

If I was in your boat, and I was, I'd go for an RPS single disc street kit.

Well done Mike, good man!

Hi Mike, what sort of use/abuse has the diff had? Have you done many miles on it? Also, who put it together and shimmed it up etc?

Sold pending payment.

I used these once when I fitted my new locking rings to my Tein HAs so they're still in great condition with packaging. £22 posted in UK. Cheers Dan

OK here are a few more pics. I gave it a wire brush on all the welded and surface rusted areas. There are two pin holes in it as shown - the worst is by the mounting point and measures about 2mm by 1mm. The other one is where the pipe meets the backbox and that one is about 1.5x0.5mm. I also took a decent pic of the dent on the underside of the silenser - you cabn't see it when it's fitted unless you're looking under the car on your knees. Pipe size is 3". Tail pipe exits straight with slash cut and is 5.5"

If you're not looking for 650hp+ (and have access to someone who can do a bit of fab work and works to a high standard) then I'd go for a cast manifold setup - you'll get faster spool and than from any divided tubular manifold setup for the same turbo. You'll save the cost of a QSV or an additional wategate...not to mention the cost of the manifold itself.

I couldn't see any reason for the sloppy fit at all. The front lower arm fits aren't exactly precision either but these top rears are worse. I didn't have the time or inclination to make up any better ones and I convinced myself that the clamping load was sufficient to hold them anyway....over a tonne to get one bolted face to slip comes to mind.

Sorry chap, afraid not. £30 posted now.

Sold. Thanks for looking.

It's also worth checking that the nut and bolt are torqued correctly. The ID of the spherical bearing is a massive clearance to the OD of the bolt (something like 0.7-0.8mm if memory serves). If it's not torqued up it can move a lot. I queried the odd bolt vs bearing size with Toyota in the US and UK as I thought I had incorrect bolts....turns out that is just the way they are.

I've got one of these coming next week. Are they any good? I ask as I have never used a BB before...

I like to have the same brand and model of tyres front and rear so I know they behave the same in changing road and weather conditions. For example a Sessanta and Eagle F1 combo may be very similar in the dry but the Sessantas will displace more standing water so you'd want to "pick which end of the car you prefer to autoplane first" in that example. That's an oversimplification due to widths and tread depth but the same argument holds true for hot vs cold roads. My Eagle F1s GSD3s were not very good on very cold roads at all, mixing those with a P-Zero or Sessanta (in my experience) does give mixed grip levels on cold roads. On a hot road there's not much between them and any oversteer vs. understeer was always predictable.

Yep. There is a lot of copper grease and white grease on there so a load of crud has stuck to that. I suppose I could strip them and clean them up externally and stick them on back here or on Ebay. I figured someone here (who isn't too bothered about the cosmetics) could save a bit of dosh and save me the bother!

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?261268-Tein-HA-Coilovers-with-OEM-Mounts-and-Insulators&highlight=tein ?

More garage clearout kit... MKIV TT K&N "M's" Intake Kit. This is a little old and tatty but nice and cheap too. The filter has some damage but is well sealed and perfectly useable despite the damage. New filters are easy to get (and I believe the RF1013, RF1036 and RU3100 all fit perfectly). Comes as pictured with clamps, silicon and alloy bend piece. £50 posted in UK. Cheers Dan

More garage clearout stuff..... Mint condition with box and a harness to use to chop about to fit whatever car you like....no need to touch the actual stereo's wiring. Boxed with case for front panel. £50 posted in UK Thanks Dan

This is my old exhaust... It exits straight and looks and sounds similar to a Superdragger. I am told it fits perfectly with the trial rear owing to the straight exit but cannot guarantee that as I have never tried it. It's old and tatty so I'll take £80 collected from Gloucestershire area. Cheers Dan