dandan
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Everything posted by dandan
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Maybe it's protesting as it wants the stock airbox back on? On a more serious note.....take it off and degrease all of the ID of the silicon and OD of the throttle body then re-assemble. Once it blows once (for whatever reason) it will need a good clean to stay on after that due to oily crap that gets on the mating surfaces. Although to be honest, I've never had the hose onto the throttle body blow off - only the one going through the inner wing.
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Bummer - exactly what I was after! Good price too.
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Are there "later part number" alternatives which are better than the olde ones or do people just buy the ones that tie up to their chassis number?
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Sounds good. You may have mentioned this already...did you have to hack into, and then extend, the wiring for the ignitor or was there enough slack to relocate it?
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Balls! Looking good - I like the fuel rail cover piece, that tidies things up nicely on that side.
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Bump
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Bump.
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Jay - will you be parting company with your old filler cap?
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Does anyone have any 3" intercooler piping lying around unused? I'm particularly after a piece like the intake side "U shaped" piece but would consider anything. Cheers Dan
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Did this sell?
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for sale Factory yellow shocks with HKS lowing springs
dandan replied to Ark's topic in Parts for Sale
Does the car sit level from one side to the other and still handle well with these or are they beyond fast road usage? Are the rubber gaitors still intact? -
for sale ERL Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection Kit
dandan replied to nikbiomed's topic in Parts for Sale
128 collected. -
Are you selling the dampers, springs and top mounts?
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is it coated rob or plain cast? Is everything else completely beyond use?!
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I was just about to remark on that as well!
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I've done it with 9.5x18 (265's) and 8.5x18 (235's). I don't remember exactly how I did it but I know the back seat stayed in and was folded flat. I remember I put something like a box on the passenger seat to get a flat surface across the centre box....then there were two in the front and two in the boot (with one tight to the passenger seat) with the seats down.
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Subscribed and interested.
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I have a 3.5" DMH performance valve ready to fit. High quality product with a 4 year guarantee. I plan to run a back to back test on the rolling road to see if there any gains gains to had between a relatively open pipe vs. a Nur SPec with additional silencing. If there are....the valve goes in.
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That's disappointing to hear.
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i'll definitely take the cage mate
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I'll get back to you Rob - I have two exams tomorrow so am supposed to be working. Let me get some pics at the weekend so you can see what we're talking about.
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Rob - I've got a clutch fork, clutch hub, and all of the associated clips, spacers and spring washers etc (you should buy new release and pilot bearings though). Cheers Dan
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i have a flywheel with 17,000 miles on it and a chris wilson clutch that did the same. I only swapped them as i 'upgraded' to rps. Any good to you?
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What does everyone use for splicing into the loom in the tank when fitting a new pump? My Walbro came with some decent crimp connectors with built in heatshrink suitable for use in the tank. Does anyone have any similar connectors they'd selll to me or how about some heatshrink suitable for use in the tank? Cheers Dan
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I would budget on a refurb for the Vortex R's when deciding what to buy.....something like £70 per wheel to have the lips stripped and laquered with something decent.
