dandan

I just realised that the work did changing to smaller rear springs (to make room for the 315s came later in the year. From about here on covers it in my project thread.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?194439-Dan-s-Supra-Project&p=3114858&viewfull=1#post3114858

I took a set of Chris Wilson's dampers and springs and and then modified them using the gixxer drew approach. I did the rears so I could gain space for my 315 tyres by using smaller springs. The front kept Chris' springs as I had plenty room there. Obviously they are now height adjustable both ends The spring rates suggested aren't that much stiffer than stock so i wouldn't worry about them not suiting our roads. I run approx 250lb at the rear which is softer than CW's and to be honest I may go a tad softer on the front when I can be bothered to work out some suitable springs. I am running titan anti roll bars too which stiffens things even more - not perfect for fast driving on crap B roads. Click the bilstein link in my signature to see all my photos related to the suspension work....

Whoops - will post back later with relevant info.

What happened the first time JP, similar thing?

When you checked the fuel lines at pressure, were you also checking the flow at that pressure or did you just wind the pressure regulator up and had nothing flowing out of the rail? To be sure you don't have a leak in the tank or a duff pump output you need to verify the required flow as well as just pressure.

Misfiring can, and will often, read lean.

Bummer Did you check the fuel hose inside the tank?

I've added some numbers off my SRR dyno graph to give you a T67 on a cast manifold for comparison. This is with a 0.81 exhaust housing and stock J spec cams. ************ GT30 ********* GT35 ******T67DBB**** 3000rpm....120bhp 200lb....112bhp 200lb....135bhp 235lb 3500rpm....180bhp 260lb....210bhp 308lb....185bhp 280lb 4000rpm....310bhp 405lb....385bhp 510lb....300bhp 400lb 4500rpm....410bhp 460lb....485bhp 560lb....500bhp 480lb (all reach peak torque 4600-4700rpm approx) 5000rpm....480bhp 505lb....530bhp 560lb....560bhp 585lb 5500rpm....500bhp 475lb....555bhp 540lb....595bhp 560lb 6000rpm....xxxbhp xxxlb....575bhp 504lb....608bhp 530lb

Assuming you are looking for 650hp+ I wouldn't (and didn't) consider anything other than a cast manifold. The downside is the "kit" side of things is just not common so you're into fabrication and that needs to be top notch to get max performcae from a cast manifold setup. The gains you make in spool and response are not to be sniffed at for a road car. If you want more than 650hp and/or can't get the fabrication work done then look for the best tubular around IMHO.

Depending on when and where you do this mate I would like to do the same. That would give a nice comparison for members with lesser power like me, around the 580-600hp mark.

Ibrar - she's a real beauty mate, you've done an absolutely smashing job Your torque and power curves are almost identical to mine up to about 5400rpm - and then your's pull away above that. What cams are you using - normal vvtis? You will love the fast spooling, it makes for such a nice easy drive when you want to do the lazy high gear overtakes I guess the vvti is really helping the 91-79 along, doing a similar job to my short runner cast manifold.

I think you beat me to it by about a minute!

My comments were based on first hand experience with an 11 plate GTR; at the time I was putting out about 570fwhp and about the same in torque (from SRR). What wheel horsepower figure were you hitting with that at SRR?

Based on my experiences I 'd say that 550hp should see you just about pulling away on a roll from about 40mph....assuming you have the traction to get your power to the tarmac.

I had to roll my front arches in order to get 255/35/18 tyres on the 9.5" with the 30 offset.

Blimey you must have some slinky tyres on those!

9.5 ET30 on the front for me. (Rears are 11.5 ET47).

Bit of an odd one here chaps.... I'm looking for a bit of an urgent favour from somebody who has some experience with oil boilers. I'm about to buy a used boiler and would really appreciate it if somebody could spend 10-15mins giving this boiler a quick look over to potentially save me a four hour round trip if it's a really bad egg. All I really need someone to do is turn it on, see if it heats hot water on demand and doesn't do anything stupid like leak to up the CH flow pipe or leak or make any disastrous noises. I can give more details as needed - boiler type, location, chap's phone number etc. Thanks very much Dan

I've got some but if you need them today you'd have to drive up to collect.

I've got a pair of 25mm hubcentric ones with a proper 60.1mm bore which I don't need any more - drop me a pm if you're interested.

I know someone who snapped a crank on an A series engine when they removed the OEM version and fitted a fancy (very expensive) viscous damped crank damper.

Yes. Worse than that though - if I remember correctly, they must be heat cycled correctly or else they can wear and blister very quickly.

I've got an oil fired combi (Worcester Heatslave) that is sixteen years old and still ok. I have replaced jets, burner motor, diverter valve motor, baffle plates etc but it is still fine. I am told that is the main water tanks splits then that pretty much writes it off as it is an uneconomical repair. I'd have to weigh up doing part of that repair myself before deciding to bin the whole thing. This model stores about 45litres of water so in some ways it isn't quite a true combi - I think this is the case for most oil fired versions though. It will easily supply a very hot shower at 25litres/minute at 3 bar which is a lot. I'm actually waiting for some restrictors to arrive to throttle the showers down to more like 10litres/min as they're a bit OTT at the moment. For me, one of the downsides to a combi is the need/desire to over spec them slightly when compared to the true heating load of the house. This seems to be common practice to get the hot water supply to be ample. The trade off is short firing cycles for the boiler as the heating output is a little too high - a long steady burn is a lot more efficient and this is one advantage of a proper cylinder based system. Another disadvantage is that it is hard to integrate solar hot water and other heat sources like wood gasification or back boilers to a combi system. A tank makes it easy as you have a natural neutral point to connect everything to. I'm actually in the process of speccing up a complete new system with a 15kW gasification boiler stove, and an array of solar tubes to reduce my reliance on oil. It's a lot of money to spend up front so I'm working out what sort of payback periods I'm looking at for various options.