dandan

Jamie - this is from your 632bhp 1.8bar run vs my same 1.6bar run. Both of these comparison graphs have got me interested enough to try a 4" exhaust at some point and see how much power that frees up at the top end staying with 1.6bar. You can see your's scream away above 5250rpm and I'm sure the exhaust contributes a little there. So, does anybody want to lend me a 4" exhaust for a few days for a rolling road test? Please If it makes a big difference I have a little plan up my sleeve to get a free flowing but quiet setup. If it doesn't make a big difference I will stick with what I have.

Cheers fellas, managed to get it sorted just before Christmas which is nice. It would be great if the weather improved a bit now

Very close - I'll try the 1.8bar run and see how that fares too. I went with the 0.81 in the end, I figured with this exhaust manifold and stock cams I'd hardly be lacking in any midrange so might as well go for the bigger one. I can appreciate that the full throttle mega fast spool can be a little over-rated but what I really love is the instant response this gives in the low speed, low rev, part throttle "normal driving" situations. It even feels like it has more pull in the low revs than my sequential twin setup and is a hell of a lot smoother. I can imagine this could get a little "expensive" without sensible driving as you only have to look at the accelerator when cruising at anything from 65mph upwards and it starts boosting - could be a fuel consumption nightmare! A 0.96 housing will be an interesting swap, you'd probably need another 1000rpm to see the power curve level off! Let me know when you're likely to be going back on the rollers and I'll see if I can come over at the same time (and maybe with the few remaining mods done depending on time scale).

Very interesting...

Aha - nice one mate, they look very similar. I'll knock up a couple of quick comparisons and post up in a few mins. (Point taken on the 632 setup)

I'm really happy with it - the botom end grunt is just as I had hoped and the power exceeded my (unspoken) aim for 550bhp and my open aim of 520+bhp. I had a brief browse around for any other runs done at 1.6bar for comparison but can't seem to find any. The closest I can get are Jamie's runs at 1.8bar with and without the billet turbo. I wanted to make some comparisons with the cast manifold to tubular manifold setups but there aren't any Dyno Dynamics stock cams, 67DBB 1.6bar plots around; it would be a bit of an unfair comparison with anything done at lower boost. Edit: Jamie, do you mind if I post up a comparison to your 1.8bar run before you changed to the 256 cams and the billet compressor wheel?

You are right dude - there is no mating cone in the regulator for an AN/JIC fitting to seal against.

They'll probably be my next choice although I'm interested to see what RE050A are like on stock 17's and also want to try some Ultarc Sessanta on my 18's for wet grip - also supposed to be very good in the wet.

I've had all three (on 18inch wheels) and in order I'd say: Dry Grip 1. Toyo 2. F1 (marginal 2nd place to the Toyo - very marginal) 3. Falken Wet/Cold Grip 1. F1 2. Toyo 3. Falken Wear 1. Falken 2. F1 3. Toyo I would recommend (and currently am running) the F1's.

It'll either be 9/16"-18 (if it looks about half inch diameter inside the FPR) or 7/8"-14 (if it looks more than 3/4" dimater in the FPR). You will need an O ring on the side that screws into the regulator and the other side needs to be whatever suits the fuel line size you are intending to run (most like a -6, -8 or -10 AN/JIC male). Edit: Tony is correct.

One for the picture followers - not bad breathing through my quiet 2 7/8" diameter "winter mornings" exhaust!

I didn't have far to drive home as we did it at Ajec Racing which is very close to me. In actual fact they are close enough to almost keep going back to to check out one modification at a time (assuming Ryan's happy to drive there to do his part). Ajec has the same rollers as SRR; Ryan has mapped cars on both before so he could comment on whether or not it's a fair comparison from his experiences - anything I say would be hearsay! Ryan - the cold start was perfect this morning and the temperature was at somewhere between freezing and five degrees. Rather than the revs flying up high and then dropping like a stone it simply purred into life very smoothly, climbing from starter motor speed up to cold idle speed - very smooth and uneventful.

Cheers Homer, that was at 1.6bar. Not sure on the temps, it was cold in the workshop - probably about 10degrees but I'm not sure what we were seeing in the intake. Ryan would know better than me. I have the plots in front of me know - it's actually more like 538lb.ft to be precise The bottom end torque seems pretty strong - I'll upload the plot tomorrow if I can but to give you a rough idea...it makes about 270lb.ft at 3500rpm, 350ft.lb at 4000rpm, and 500lb.ft at 4500rpm.

569bhp and 540lb.ft

Thanks a lot lot mate and a massive thanks for your mapping efforts - nice one!

What condition are they in? Any scuffs or cigarette burns?

Another mini update - no pics though. - Cold start and hot start tweaked so hopefully a little better now and less embarrassing when cranking like an old banger - Aluminium tubing and fittings have arrived for breathers - New plugs are fitted ready for mapping - Water injection is on hold for now but pretty much ready to go - Catch tank did not arrive today - Don't have second rotary switch - Dash switch blanking plates haven't arrived so can't fit WI and fog light switches So, for the moment (unless I get super enthusiastic) the car is staying off the road till I at least get the rotary switch and dash blanks. I am not keen on putting the dash panels back in, only to have to pull them all back off again to fit my water injection and Solaris switches. The missing catch tank isn't a major issue although I want it in before rolling road and final mapping time.

Damn - I misread your ad thinking the trailing arm bushes were the strut rod bushes - nevermind. I have new trailing arms ready to fit (but am looking for strut rod front bushes). Would you take £50 delivered for the front top arm set?

Is the front lip a active spoiler bumper lip or just the lower part of the bumper? If it's the active spoiler piece then I'd take it. Also interested in the handbrake if it is perfect (any pics?).

Isn't the first cat mounting flange different on the vvti's?

Sorry Wes - as Paul says...nowadays I'd probably be looking on Ebay as my first port of call if it's not something I have lying around. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Could you confirm if the rear trailing arm bushes are the ones for the front of the arms (where they mount to the subframe) or the rear (which sits in the hub) or both. Now I look again at the pics, it looks like both ends - is that right?? Also, would you drop the price to £80 if I buy the lot?

Me too.

A little bit of positive progress: - I have some aluminium tubing and fittings on order for the breather conenction to the exhaust - New plugs are on order ready for mapping - Catch tank is close to completion - Water injection is 90% done barring a switch and connecting to the Solaris - Second rotary switch is coming from Ryan - Dash switch blanking plates are coming from Steve manley (to tidy up dash area while it's in pieces) All of these things should be here by the end of the week so hopefully this weekend I can finish everythng and also I will only have to remove the dash panels once (to fit rotary switch for Solaris, rocker switch for Aquamist and warning LED for Aquamist). Then all that is left is to sort out the MAP sensor next time I see Ryan and that should tie in with a trip to SRR

John, I sent you an email about the nipple for the breather tank. Could you confirm you got it please and also let me know if there's any chance I can have the tank before the end of the week if at all possible? Cheers Dan