dandan

Excellent, thanks. Do you have a paypal address?

I'll be doing loads of testing Jay once I get the OEM MAP sensor back from Ryan and wired into one of my last 0-5V inputs. If the whole thing doesn't work as intended I'll do something else instead.

Nice one Charlie, I could believe that on a very high horsepower motor. If I saw just 10hp on mine I'd be happy, it's all free power. I seem to remember Dimitri running into some lubrication issues from toooo much vacuum from the exhaust vac setup. I'll pm him again to ask.

I'll dig some links out mate One of my older NA cars ran a PCV to the intake and a single slash cut in the exhaust...both via a catch can. At the time I was just following other peoples' guidance so I don't have any real data from it but it worked well until the valve to the exhaust burnt out. I was only running a 3/8" pipe to the exhaust so it didn't have the vac potential of current system. I do have the option of adding an intake PCV back into this system if needed. That said, I am definitely getting vacuum at 900rpm; I can't tell you exactly how much but I should be able to get a gauge connected tomorrow. The real question is why does anyone want or need vacuum in the crankcase? Based on the answers to that, the next question is when is it actually needed? Is it really necessary at all time including idle....that probably depends on why you think the vacuum needs to be in there at all. If it is to (slightly) help ring seal and reduce losses from spinning the crank through an oil mist then is that really necessary at idle? If the vacuum is part of the seal design on a particular engine then it would be sensible not to upset it and you'd definitely want to maintain it at all times. It's been proven many times to free up power so I'm in for as much vacuum as is sensibly possible. All the digging around I've done has led me to want to stop at a figure of about -5psi to -6psi, hopefully sitting on the safe side of bearing oiling issues. Very nice My initial concerns were about the valves cooking (as I've had before) so mine are 4ft from the slash cut - fingers crossed. I'll keep you posted on the results, the over run scenario will be an interesting one to see some data for. Spot on Cheers Homer. I remember him posting a few things up a while ago about OEM breathers and PCV systems but I think it was all low vacuum stuff and related to the function of the emissions/breather kit from the factory as opposed to vacuum pump/high vac designs. I will definitely give him a shout though and see if he has any new thoughts on these higher vacuum systems....especially in the sealing and little end bearing lubrication department. Thanks for posting up - much appreciated.

Does anyone have one I could buy or borrow? I need to take a few measurements for another project. Cheers Dan

It's not something you hear discussed very often Jay but in certain motorsports you'll see competitors going to huge efforts to minimize oil vapours in the crankcase and drop the pressure as low as possible. Some will use vacuum pumps, or see the benefit from the scavenging effect of dry sump systems and of course there are options like the OEM PCV system or this "slash-cut" approach.

This is where the slash cut pipes enter the midpipe. This is where both feeds from the cam covers enter the tank. These are the dash 10 outlets to the one way, anti backfire valves I don't have all the fitted pics with me now but I will post them up tomorrow. Bending, shaping and routing the hardpipes to the midpipe was one of those annoyingly tricky and time consuming jobs.

Yes I do have it Paul - it's a nice book with a lot of useful stuff covered...not just the usual babble. In the section on breather kit and dry sump lubrication it states: "....my recommendation is not to exceed depressions of 10-12in for street engines." and also says "Street engines routinely show a 3-4% hp rise at 10-12in vacuum...." That's potentially another 17-23bhp by my calculations.....in reality any gain at all would be nice I have an inbuilt mechanical valve that'll limit my vacuum to approx 1.5psi more than the vacuum seen in the inlet to the turbo.....so basically, not very much. Once I've spent some time getting a few logs and seeing how much vacuum the whole setup is capable of pulling (without the valve in place) I will get a better limiter fitted - probably a stiffer spring in the same one way valve. What are your concerns about vacuum with this setup? Are you thinking there won't be enough at low revs and idle? My concerns are limiting the vacuum to sensible level but I'm sure I can get around that easy enough with a little experimentation. I have it all fitted now (car still on axle stands in the garage though) so I have only been able to see what happens when idling....there is definite vacuum but I can't find the gauge so I cannot tell you how much...yet! I do have a video of a piece of paper getting sucked onto a port on the breather tank when idling but no way to upload it.

If the spigot diameter on the outside and inside is 60.1mm I will take them.

It seems very odd to me and that's why I posted up. I am not in the middle of doing the job yet, I am just checking all the parts over before I start so I can't say what the fit is like in the subframe. I do not have any nuts yet, they should be arriving next week sometime. According to ToyoDIY the bolt part number is correct (90119-14040). I might go out and try to remove one of the old bolts to see how that compares....

Has anybody here replaced their rear top arms? The reason I ask is that I have just bought a complete new set of suspension arms and bolts and am a little bemused at the mounting arrangement for these top rear arms. Most people know that these top arms have the spherical bearing protected by a rubber seal/bush arrangement....very nice for precision and alignment and holding geometry settings longer than a rubber/urethane bush. I was expecting the mounting bolt to be a close fit inside the ID of the mounting hole in the bushes but mine is very slack and I'm wondering if this is normal. Does anybody know? My top arm part numbers are 48770-19025 and 48790-19025 The mounting bolt part numbers are 90119-14040 The bore through the steel part of the bush measures 14.22-14.31mm and the OD of the bolts is 12.9-13.00mm which means it can have as much as 1.4mm clearance. Any thoughts on this? Cheers Dan

I used Zircotec as well. I reckon a tubular manifold would probably be about £300. Email their sales email address from the website for a fast reply. There is a company a lot closer to me and I wish I gave them a try (or at least the opportunity to quote). I will try them next time....here's their website: http://www.poeton.co.uk/coatings-motorsport.htm

Bumpy

I have a brand new DMH 3.5" cutout for sale....it's the one on the right in this photo (wiring and switch not shown, but all in perfect never fitted condition). This is a real high quality item that comes with a 4 year guarantee. The only reason I am selling is because I'd like a 4" version to go with my new exhaust system rather than trying to make the 3.5" work. I bought it from Ballenger Motorsports for £113 plus £24 shipping so it now stands me at £137. To order one and get it delivered from the US would actually come in at around £185 with duty etc. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/210/products_id/1480 I really need to get this money back to be able to buy the 4" one so I'm looking for £142 including insured delivery. There are three videos of the valve working on this page at the bottom: http://dmhperformance.com/photogallery.htm I am going to be using this to bypass all but one of my exhaust silencers and bends to get a really nice free flowing setup at the flick of a switch. The valve is sealed with a high temp O ring and shuts up against a shoulder to seal with the O ring. There's a video here of a boost activated device (rather than electric) to show thie kind of idea although I'm going to have a short length of slash cut pipe after my valve like picture below.... Any questions, please just ask. Cheers Dan

Still going?

Oh yes.....there's an 1/8" NPT port on the side of the tank for a gauge and a little barb on the back to connect to my (now redundant) stock MAP sensor for logging That said, Ryan seems to have taken my map sensor and plug after swapping to the GM sensor....I'll need that back from Mr Griffiths I have a few ideas for limiting the vacuum as I'm a little concerned that this setup will create too much....as soon as I can modify this tank mount and bend the hard lines into shape I will get everything fitted and report back.

Nice job on the pump stuff John I do have a couple of pointers for you though... You'll need to lift the pump about 10-20mm from where you have it now to get it to fit without the filter hitting the bottom of the tank. Your filter looks deeper than mine and even I had to lift mine a little. That means that the 90degree tang on the original pump hanger has to be cut off. It's not a big deal though as the jubilee clips will hold it fine. You may also find that the "fuel pump cover" in the boot won't fit once you put a 90 degree fitting on the top of the bulkhead fitting. Again, probably not the end of the world but you'll need to modify the cover if you want to use it to protect the wiring etc By the way, nice check valve - glad you found one in the end.

And again

I got my breather tank yesterday, this was made by johnd_mkiv and I have to say he did a smashing job - thank you John I will get a few more pictures when I actually fit it. I'm not sure I actually want to powder coat it now I do need to modify the mounting slightly (on opposite face) before I can fit it but I bet I will struggle to find an aluminium welder to do it between Xmas and the New Year now. Anyway, I should be able to at least get it in to place temporarily and then sort out the correct lengths for the braided lines to the tank and the hardlines to the midpipe. The tank The hose fittings and valves Hardline and fittings

Woohoo another one - thanks Chris

Looks lovely mate, I think the new wheels will only improve the look. Shame about the tyres but I suppose if it's going to be off the road for a while then it's not a major problem.

Am I too late?

Cheers Kev - we'll have to meet up at some point when the weather improves. Thanks Christian, nice looking plot, thanks for that Glad the fuel hoses arrived safe

Good man - gives the rest of us some reassurance and safety margin p.s. I have those plugs we talked about, do you want to sort out money and posting after New Year?

Yes, seems like a good sign that turbo was damaged by that point already. It did seem like a fair drop in the low down grunt. Don't go throwing a rod through the block, chasing mega revs on the stock rod bolts Charlie might be upset if you get oil all over his rolling road!